October Events in Paris: Salon du Chocolat (& more)
By Sophie Delon
The world’s largest chocolate show is back in Paris this month, turning the French capital into a mecca for those people with a passion for all things chocolate. And they have lots of reasons to get excited, with more than 200 chocolate makers and pastry chefs on hand to tantalize and tempt with their creations. This year’s theme is centered around pastry making, with plenty of temptations to enjoy and sample. (more…)
Jules Pansu “La Terre” Pillow
We love all of the fabulous pillows made by Jules Pansu {Paris}, but the La Terre (Earth) pillow really speaks to us. The 18″ square pillow is a jacquard weave, and is just one of the “Earth, Wind, Air and Fire” series by the the 133-year old company known for their magnificent wall tapestries and fabrics.
Available on shop.ParisienSalon.com
Paris Eats Up Lola’s Cookies
Interview by Linda Donahue
In a city known for its delectable patisseries, where shelves are lines with all manner of gateaux, éclairs, Religieuses, Millefeuille and tartes, Parisians have begun to develop a taste for American baked goods. First, the cupcake invaded the French capital, and now the beloved American cookie is finding its way into the hearts (and stomachs) of Parisians. And two American expats have been leading the charge. (more…)
French Lessons: A Q & A with Author Ellen Sussman
Interview by Linda Donahue
Three Americans – an expat mom with two small children, a bereaved French teacher and the husband of a film star – spend a day traipsing through Paris with their French tutors.The lessons they learn, however, have little to do with language and everything to do with life and love. Such is the premise of Ellen Sussman’s second novel, French Lessons. (more…)
Cupcake Camp Returns to Paris
Story and photos contributed by Cat Beurnier
Following the success of Cupcake Camp Paris last summer, the event returns to the City of Light to recapture the hearts and stomachs of its growing legion of fans. Cupcake fans of all ages, Parisians, expats, and bakers of all levels will gather at Le Comptoir Général, along the Canal St-Martin for the second annual Cupcake Camp Paris. Attendees will taste, share, and judge (for those who want to participate in the contests) their home-made cupcakes in a friendly and festive atmosphere. There will also be live music and a raffle with an amazing variety of prizes. (more…)
Where to Eat in Paris without Breaking the Bank
Story by Lela Lake
The delectable odors wafting down Paris streets can lure unwary travelers into sumptuous meals that quickly devour your vacation budget. The trick is to focus on a dining destination you know will satisfy your most gluttonous desires without breaking the bank. (more…)
Reflections on Change: 10 Years Since 9/11
Ten years ago today, I got on an airplane to fly to Pittsburgh from Miami for my cousin’s wedding—just a month after returning from a trip to Paris and Italy. Because I was just going for just the weekend, I packed an overnight bag, stuffing it with clothing and toiletries, including my big bottles of shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste and moisturizers. Nobody stopped me as I went through security to see if all my liquids fit into a quart-sized plastic bag. I didn’t have to remove my shoes or take off the sweater I was wearing as I stepped through the metal detector. It’s amazing how everything changed only three days later. (more…)
In the Belly of Paris: Les Halles
Story edited by Sophie Delon
Back in 1873, Émile Zola published his third novel, Le Ventre de Paris. Set in the bustling central marketplace of Les Halles, the book was Zola’s first to focus completely on the working class of Paris. The title of the book translates into “the belly of Paris” – a name that became synonymous with the district in the northeast of the 1st arrondissement. (more…)
C’est Mon Plaisir
42, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile
75004 Paris
Phone: 01.43.26.79.27
Metro Station: Pont Marie or Sully-Morland (Line 7)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Sun Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
The recently opened C’est Mon Plaisir is a charming restaurant located on Ile Saint-Louis, an island situated in the heart of Paris. Its bare-stone walls, exposed wooden beams, and dark-brown trim make it one of the most romantic spots at which we have had the occasion to dine. The best table is by the window, where one can observe passersby making their way down the narrow rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile. During our meal, many of the pedestrians that we saw were eating ice cream that they had purchased at the nearby Berthillon ice cream parlor.
While we dined, we heard a variety of music over the sound system, including Portuguese fado, songs by Louis Prima and Otis Redding, music by Django Reinhart, and trendy bar music.
The restaurant offers a three-course, 33€ fixed-price menu. Price supplements apply to some of the choices.
To start the meal, we ordered the Apéritif du moment, a sparkling wine from the Loire Valley. While not a champagne, it came close! It had fine bubbles and notes of pear and green apple at the finish.
As a mise en bouche, we were served a small slice of terrine of pressed chicken. Topped with shredded Mimolette cheese and flavored with house vinaigrette, the preparation was moist and appetizing.
An appealing choice of starters made selection difficult. Both my partner and I settled for the Plaisir de tarte fine aux légumes tièdes, crème onctueuse moutarde à l’ancienne. This did not disappoint! We each received a round of flaky pastry topped with a “caviar” spread made of eggplant topped by vegetables cooked firm to the bite—carrot, baby artichoke, green beans, and fresh, sliced radish.
When time came to choose the main course, we each went our separate ways. I opted for Caille rôti entière et son jus, carottes fanes croquantes et marinade de betterave. I requested that the quail be served rare (rosé), and it arrived tender and succulent. The roasted bird was topped with finely diced beet and sat in delicious gravy. Three small carrots cooked tender accompanied the dish.
My partner selected a bird of a different kind—Poulet fermier de Challans poché dans un bouillon au safran du Quercy, haricots verts frais et radis cerise. This turned out to be a perfectly cooked chicken breast in saffron sauce, sitting atop a bed of string beans. Three radishes garnished the plate.
As a wine accompaniment, we ordered a half-bottle of Plaisir de Siaurac Lalande de Pomerol 2009, a medium bodied, slightly tannic red wine with notes of pepper and red fruit.
Chewy, fresh, thick-cut baguette was served alongside in a basket.
I tried the house specialty for dessert. Called Cheese cake “Mon Plaisir”, it was a four-layered affair beginning with a graham-cracker crust, followed by a slightly salty cheese cake, a scoop of vanilla ice cream, and a topping of crème Chantilly and sliced almonds. I enjoyed the cake and the crust, and thought that the ice cream and crème Chantilly were not necessary to make the dessert complete. The swirl of raspberry sauce around the cake was enough to give it additional flavor.
My partner enjoyed her almond-flavored, individually-portioned pound cake topped with mascarpone and cherries and served with swizzles of cherry sauce. Here, again, the cake would have been an excellent dessert just by itself.
The service was friendly and helpful.
The bill for two persons, including two apéritifs, a half-bottle of wine, two three-course menus (one supplement of 2.50€ for the cheese cake), and an espresso, came to 103.00€.
We used to dine here when the restaurant was under different management and was called Le Fin Gourmet. We are pleased to report that the quality of the food and service has remained high under new management and new name!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Indulging Your Inner Artist in Paris
Story by Kalin Beck
Ever since she first watched “Midnight in Paris” a few months ago, Megan Baxter has had a yearning to study art in Paris. “My childhood dream was to become an artist,” she says, “but I went on a completely different path.” After the marketing executive saw Woody Allen’s latest film, though, it awakened the dream buried inside her. “I’ve spent a lot of time lately daydreaming about quitting my job, moving to Paris and spending my days painting along the Seine.” (more…)
Le Resto
8, rue Tournefort
75005 Paris
Phone: 01.43.37.10.66
Metro Station: Place Monge (Line 7)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri Noon – 2:30 p.m and 7:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
We first wrote about Le Resto in the November 2009 edition of our newsletter Paris Insights. At that time the restaurant had been open for just seven months. We returned last Friday with four friends from California, assuring them that they would get a great meal here. They were not disappointed! The appetizing food and relaxed, friendly service have not changed.
The restaurant exudes rustic charm, with exposed, wooden beams on the ceiling, bare stone walls, and a wooden-plank floor. It also manifests an unusual display of eclectic and unconventional décor that borders on the peculiar, with black café curtains at the window, unmatched mirrors on the wall, a wrought-iron candelabrum holding red candles over the bar, a wall next to the bar painted cherry-red, and an adjoining wall painted black. The table tops are made of champagne riddling boards, painted black and covered by inset glass. And finally, as if to emphasize that the diner has entered an unusual space, the customer is handed menu cards that are viewed through thick slabs of Plexiglas.
The ambiance is amusing rather than disconcerting, and as the dishes came out of the kitchen, our friends soon realized that there was some seriously good food served here.
Six persons are about the maximum size that this small restaurant can accommodate as a group. We were comfortable at the single large table around which we sat…but just barely!
While making our decision about which dishes to order, we ordered a bottle of Domaine de Grézan Chardonnay 2009 from the Languedoc-Roussillon, a region located in the southernmost part of France. We found the medium-bodied white wine to be soft and refreshing,
The restaurant offers a three-course menu for 28€. It is still, as we said back in November 2009, a modest price to pay for such well-prepared dishes. There are five starters, five mains, and five desserts from which to choose. A couple of the dishes come with supplemental prices.
For the starter, I ordered Rillettes thon, avocat, toasts grillés. Four chunky slices of toasted baguette drizzled with olive oil encircled a disk-shaped mound of shredded tuna mixed with avocado and spices, and topped with a sun-dried tomato. It was evident that the mouthwatering tuna mixture was to be spread on the toast and then eaten with the fingers. Delicious!
My partner selected the Crottin de chèvre lardé au balsamique, brisure de noix. This unique preparation consisted of goat cheese wrapped in a single slice of bacon. It was served warm and garnished with luscious balsamic vinegar and broken walnut halves. My partner declared that this was the highlight of her meal – she said that it was even better than her dessert!
The Filet de bar aux petits légumes looked promising for the main course, so I chose that. I received a plate containing a generous slice of broiled bass resting next to a small mound of peas and broad beans topped with sun-dried tomatoes. The fish had been drizzled with pesto sauce and the vegetables with balsamic. It was a tasty Mediterranean-inspired meal.
For her part, my partner opted for the Joue de porcelet, petits pois frais et coriandre. Three small, but lean and tender portions of meat were served nestled in baby peas prepared à la française.
The dessert choices all looked tempting. Not quite knowing what a Vacherin minute, sauce chocolat was, I ordered it. Akin to a chocolate sundae, it was a tall glass of caramel ice cream mixed with broken chunks of baked meringue and drizzled with chocolate sauce. Scrumptious!
My partner enjoyed her Mi-cuit chocolat, glace caramel beurre salé. The “mi-cuit” has become commonplace on French menus, and it generally pleases those who love chocolate. But my partner was intrigued by the salted caramel ice cream that was served alongside. Its excellent, creamy texture and perfectly assertive flavor were the best thing about this course.
On the evening that we dined, we learned that Pascal Millet is no longer the chef. That position is now adequately filled by Isabelle Bedjidian, who was, at one time, the server in the restaurant. Service is now provided by Stéphanie, who stepped outside with us to take our picture in front of the restaurant. She spoke English during the service, to the delight of our friends from California. They will have some great stories to tell about French conviviality and French cuisine when they return to the States!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
In the Paris Spirit: An Interview with Françoise Richard-Ryst
Interview edited by Sophie Delon
Managing director of Ryst-Dupeyron, the renowned fine wine and liquor specialist, Françoise Richard-Ryst enthusiastically describes the treasures of this family- owned business set up more than a century ago in the heart of the 7th arrondissement.
How long have you been living in Paris?
I was born in the family home in Condom in Gascony, and I feel a strong connection to my hometown. But I’ve lived in Paris since I was a child, so I also think of myself as a Parisian – by choice, if not by birth.
What is special about Ryst-Dupeyron?
Our company is unusual in that it has remained a family-owned business since it was set up in 1905 by my great-grandfather Joseph Dupeyron. I’m very pleased to be working these days with the fifth generation – my two daughters Aurélie and Nathalie. We offer a one-off service here in Paris – we can personalize any bottle sold at our Rue du Bac shop while you wait. We use special software to print out a personalized label within seconds for a gift, a special occasion like a birthday or marriage or even to celebrate the signing of a business contract. The label is identical to the one on the traditional basquaise bottles of Armagnac. We place it over the label of the bottle of liquor or wine you’ve purchased, and seal it with red wax. The personalized labels are very popular with our regular customers as well as our international visitors. We also import a wide range of port and whisky. We produce a special brandy by maturing our Armagnac in casks previously containing rum or Premier Cru Sauternes wine. This procedure is known as “cask finish” and gives the Armagnac a particular flavour and aroma.
Where do the majority of visitors to your lovely Rue du Bac shop come from – Paris, the French provinces or abroad?
We opened our Paris shop, which has a listed façade, more than 30 years ago. So we have a very loyal customer base here in the neighborhood. We also get a lot of people from all over Paris – famous names as well as ordinary people – because they know they’ll be given a friendly welcome and good advice. The profile of our Parisian and French clientele has been changing over the past few years. We are increasingly drawing much younger customers, who have been brought up by their parents to put quality over quantity.
We also get a lot of international customers who appreciate our products and come to see us at any time of year. Here, too, the customer profile is changing. We have traditionally had a lot of American and Japanese customers, but we’ve been seeing increasing numbers of Russian, Chinese and Brazilian customers coming in over the past few years. Each nationality is different. Chinese customers have usually heard about us through word-of-mouth, while Brazilians are genuinely passionate about liquors and fine wine. Few of them are connoisseurs, as Brazil doesn’t have much of a wine and spirit making industry and imported products are heavily taxed, but they’re extremely interested in our products, and eager to learn about wines and spirits.
How are you adapting to the flow of new customers from emerging countries such as Brazil, China and Russia?
We have extremely loyal staff. Most of them joined us when they were very young and are still working with us 20 or 30 years down the line. So they are perfectly aware of our customers’ needs and expectations, be they French or international. They all speak French and English, like the majority of our international clientele. Our Russian customers also appreciate the fact that one of our staff members speaks fluent Russian, which is really important to them.
Do you have an anecdote to tell us about a specific purchase or request on the part of a customer?
Our cellar master Didier once had an American client stop by with her children. She’d already bought from us, and wanted to pick up a bottle of champagne for her husband’s birthday. They started talking at length about champagne and wine, and in the end she decided the occasion was special enough to warrant a jeroboam of Chateaux Margaux 1995, one of the treasures of our cellar – quite a change from her original request for a decent bottle of champagne!
How do the tasting sessions you organize in the Rue du Bac shop work?
We organize tasting sessions by appointment in our shop for tiny groups of two to three people. We start out with a light cocktail made with orange juice and Armagnac, and a short film about our company and our cellars in Condom. Our cellar masters then have participants taste four or five types of Armagnac, port or whisky, from more recent to older vintages. Depending on people’s reactions, we offer advice on the product most likely to suit their taste. I’ve noticed that we attract a variety of people of different ages and as many women as men at our sessions, which are held in French and English, and that’s wonderful.
Do you also have shops or sales points abroad?
No, but in 2001 we set up a website, on which we can take orders from all over the world. The website catalogue features our entire range of wines, champagnes and spirits – in fact it’s better stocked than our Paris cellar, where we’re starting to run out of space! The website also offers the personalized labeling service, which is a feature that people buying gifts and our business clientele really appreciate.
What’s your favorite Paris district?
I like the entire city. I see Paris as a collection of lots of different little cities. But I do particularly like the 7th arrondissement, where I work, and the 17th, where I live. There’s a village atmosphere in both these districts – people all know and greet each other and that’s really pleasant in our modern world, where virtual contact is increasingly replacing face-to-face contact!
What’s your favorite shopping itinerary and what are your favorite shops in Paris?
I have to admit my daughters usually have to force me to go shopping! I like going to Shanghai Tang with them to browse the chic and original clothing and accessories, and to Tod’s for the stylish shoes. But I instinctively tend to shop in our district, at shops like Nouez Moi, which has lovely embroidered household linen and charming baskets. And, as I’ve got a sweet tooth, I love going to Pierre Hermé to buy pastries.
And what are your favorite restaurants in Paris?
I really enjoy going to dinner in a small Vietnamese restaurant in the 17th arrondissement, Le Palanquin, which is run by a woman and her two daughters. It’s a tiny place, but you’re given a very warm welcome and the food is remarkably good.
Do you visit Paris museums in your free time?
I take genuine pleasure in visiting one of the numerous museums in Paris on Sunday mornings – we’re lucky to have such a vast choice. There are three museums I’m always especially happy to visit – the Musée d’Orsay, the Musée Rodin and the Musée Jacquemart André.
If Paris were a color, what color would it be? Or a piece of music? Or a perfume or smell? Or a fine liquor?
Your readers might be surprised to hear that the color Paris symbolizes for me is turquoise – it’s a vibrant color, both calm and bold, which corresponds to the city’s atmosphere. For the music, my first choice would be Vivaldi. The fragrance is verbena and as for the fine liquor, I’d choose a 1963 Armagnac with notes of plum and vanilla.
Ryst-Dupeyron
79 rue du Bac, Paris 7th
www.vintageandco.com
This interview was conducted by and appears courtesy of the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau. Top photo by Meg Zimbeck.
COlunching in Paris (and Beyond)
By Bryan Pirolli
Paris has no shortage of adorable cafés and restaurants that are just begging for you to sit down in them and indulge in all sorts of culinary discoveries. Eating a long lunch with a glass or two of wine is a French hallmark as much as the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre – it’s simply a must. If you’re traveling by yourself, however, nothing is more intimidating than sitting in one of these establishments alone. Solo eating seems like an art that few, especially those who don’t speak the local language, have mastered. It’s simply not easy. (more…)
Le Bistro des Oies
33, rue Bichat
75010 Paris
Phone: 01.42.08.34.86
Metro Station: Goncourt (Line 11)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Sat Noon – 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
Tucked away between the Saint-Martin Canal and the Saint-Louis Hospital, this little restaurant bears more resemblance to a cluttered, second-hand bric-a-brac shop than to a dining establishment. But intrepid diners should not hesitate to enter and squeeze into the limited-space seating area for a dining experience that they are not likely soon to forget.
The restaurant specializes in goose dishes, and one will find breast of goose on the menu. Foie gras of duck is also featured here, but oddly enough, not foie gras of goose.
Shortly after we were seated, we each ordered a glass of sparkling, refreshing Xavier Laluc champagne as an apéritif.
The restaurant offers a 24 €, three-course, fixed-price menu. (Price supplements apply to some of the dishes.) We were pleased to learn that not only does the menu list a wide number of dishes to choose from, but the restaurant also proposes a number of plats du jour (specials of the day).
For my three-course meal, I ordered from the “plats du jour” menu. My partner ordered from the standard menu.
My starter was called Délices de foie de volailles au cognac et rillettes de cochon. I was served a plate upon which rested a portion of intensely flavorful pâté of fowl liver and a scoop of mildly-flavored shredded pork. Both of these meat preparations were appetizing, but the slightly bitter liver pâté laced with cognac commanded the greatest attention from my taste buds.
My partner was not as satisfied with her Salade de chèvre frais rôti et sésame grillée. It consisted of a mixed-green salad containing three discs of fresh goat cheese on rounds of toasted baguette, topped with sesame seeds. The cheese was only lukewarm and the sesame seeds barely grilled. She declared that the salad was “average,” and said that she wished she had opted for my starter.
My Braisé de lapin aux pleurottes was a serving of leg of rabbit in dark gravy, accompanied by puréed potatoes, French fries, and pleurote mushrooms. The rabbit was moist and chewy; however, as I had ordered a similar dish the week before at Le Grand 8 restaurant (see my review of May 2), I felt compelled to compare the two. I thought that the rabbit at Le Grand 8 had a sweeter flavor and was more tender than the one here.
My partner requested that her Magret d’oie rôti entier, sauce aux figues be cooked “rosé” (medium-rare). The goose breast that she was served, however, was more rare than she anticipated. Nonetheless, she seemed pleased with the dish, as the generous portion of meat was topped with a light, sweet sauce containing morsels of fig. She received two of the same side dishes that I did, namely mashed potatoes and French fries, as well as batons of steamed zucchini.
To accompany our meal, we ordered 50 cl of Cairanne Domaine Berthet-Rayne 2009 from the Rhone Valley, a medium-dry, red wine with notes of blueberry.
Fresh, thick-sliced baguette was served alongside in a basket.
My dessert was Pommes fondantes au caramel et sablé au beurre, a serving of tender, sweet baked apple slices with caramel sauce. The shortbread (sablé au beurre) that was served with the apples was surprisingly salty. Not quite the right accompaniment for sweet apples in my opinion!
My partner was happy with her Crème brulée, vanille Bourbon et cassonade. She declared it a perfect classic with its caramelized, sugar-topped crust and soft, vanilla-flavored cream beneath.
The service was friendly and helpful. While we dined the waitress, spotting our camera on the table, offered to take a picture of us.
The bill for two, including two fixed-price menus with one 5 € supplement, two glasses of champagne, and 50 cl of wine, came to 81 €.
By the time we finished our meal and settled the bill, the restaurant was almost full with customers. As we walked through the neighborhood on our way to the metro, we passed by a number of cafés and restaurants whose sidewalk terraces were brimming with people engaged in animated conversation. This is a lively area to come to for an evening of informal dining.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Life’s a Beach in Paris Over the Summer
By Sophie Delon
How many people head to Paris thinking they’re going to have a great beach vacation? If you find yourself in Paris from the end of July through the end of August, that’s just what you’ll find. For those not geographically challenged, you’re absolutely correct in believing that Paris isn’t perched upon the sea or a great lake. But when you think about it, all you really need for a great beach holiday is some sand and a water view.
My Paris Favorites: Amy Thomas
Introduction by Linda Donahue
Amy Thomas is one busy woman. I first met her at a little soirée in Montmartre, but of course I knew of Amy long before that. After all, she is the blogger behind God I Love Paris and Sweet Freak – both sentiments to which I can relate. But Amy is also an advertising copywriter who, after an assignment that kept her in Paris for two years, lives in New York City, as well as an editorial writer whose work has been featured in the New York Times, Time Out, Town & Country, Lucky and New York magazine. And, as if that isn’t enough to make even the most ambitious writer’s head spin, she’s also working on a book that will be published early next year, with a working title of “Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate).” That she even found the time to share her Paris favorites with us is astonishing, so read on to get Amy’s inside insights on life in the French capital. (more…)
Summer in the City of Lights
Story by Kalin Beck
As a gal who was raised in New York City, summers in the city meant actually leaving the city. Once school was out, the family would pack up and head to our cottage in the Hamptons. It wasn’t until I was all grown up and living in Manhattan as a young professional that I realized there was actually life in the city during the summer months.
Paris is much the same. When school is out, some of the more well-to-do families make their country home their summer headquarters, and come August, many Parisians leave the city for their holiday. But during a summer assignment in the French capital, I realized how much there was to actually enjoy during summer in the city.
Paris Plage
Why spend hours on a crowded train (or on the roads) heading to the coast when there’s a perfectly good beach in Paris? Every year, the French capital transforms the banks of the Seine into a Riviera beach, from morning to midnight – and admission is free. If you don’t have your own beach towel or chair, you can even rent one. You’ll find three “beaches”: from the Louvre to Pont de Sully, from Port de la Gare to Joséphine Baker Piscine, and from the Bassin de la Villette to Rue de Crimée.
Each beach offers something a little different, like concerts, climbing walls, rollerblading areas, wi-fi cafés, art classes and boating.
Website: http://www.paris-plages.fr/
Movies Beneath the Stars
Remember the days of drive-in movies where you sat with the top of your convertible down, watching a movie on the big screen while you munched on popcorn? Yeah, me neither. But with Cinéma en plain air, you can get a sense for what it feels like to catch a flick al fresco, and you don’t need a car to do it. Bring a blanket and an evening picnic with you to Parc de la Villette until August 21st to watch a movie under the stars from as far back as the 1950s and by filmmakers like Martin Scorsese, Gus Van Sant, Cédric Klapisch, Woody Allen and Michael Mann. The festival closes out with an old American favorite, West Side Story.
For more information, visit the website.
Music Under the Sun
Until July 31st, the Paris Jazz Festival offers concerts every Saturday and Sunday at the Parc Floral in the Bois de Boulogne, at 3:00 and 4:30. Admission is €5 for adults and €2.50 for children, and you can find a complete program, in English, here.
And then, beginning August 6 and running through to the end of September, Festival Classique au Vert takes over the space, with concerts at 3:00pm every weekend, ranging from Broadway show tunes, classical masterpieces and other orchestral delights. Like the jazz festival before it, admission is €5 for the grown-ups and €2.50 for the kids. You’ll find a program and more information at the festival’s website.
Closing out the summer is the Festival Rock en Seine in the Domaine national de Saint-Cloud, just outside Paris. The line-up is beyond rocking’, with groups like the Foo Fighters, Arctic Monkey, The Kills, Interpol and My Chemical Romance taking to one of the four stages set up for August 26, 27 and 28. Passes are available for a day or all three, so checkout the website for prices or to book your tickets.
Ordinary Stuff, Too
While it used to feel like Paris shut down in August, more and more Parisians are staying in the city, keeping their shops and cafés open in the process. But it is easier to get a table in the non-touristy neighborhoods, with the usual local crowds enjoy a few weeks in the country.
My friends and I would enjoy picnics in the Jardin, or on one of the stone benches lining the Seine (our favorite spots were along the Île St-Louis). With the sun up until after 10pm, we’d sometimes meet up with a few bottles of wine in the courtyards of our apartment buildings, or in one of the small neighborhood jardins.
That’s the real joy of spending a summer in Paris. No matter what you want to do, it’s there, and it’s fabulous!
Porokhane
3, rue Moret
75010 Paris
Phone: 01.40.21.86.74
Metro Station: Saint-Maur (Line 3), Menilmontant (Line 2), Couronnes (Line 2
Type of cuisine: Senegalese
Days & hours of operation: 7 p.m. to 1 a.m. from Monday through Sunday
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express
Porokhane is an unpretentious dining establishment located a couple of doors down from the corner of rue Moret and rue Oberkampf. We entered, and were seated at the far end of the dining room on a well-worn bench next to tall, wide windows. As we dined, the natural light coming through the windows grew slowly fainter. During this time, the lights of the restaurant did not come on to compensate for the illumination that was lost to the setting sun. We ended our meal dining in semi-darkness!
My partner and I came here last Wednesday with a French friend who is fond of “exotic” cuisine. He had already done some preliminary research on Porokhane, saying that he had read that the best Thieboudienne (Senegal’s national fish and rice dish) in Paris could be found here.
My partner advised us that our portions would likely be large, and to beware of being overly optimistic about the amount of food that we would be able to consume. And she was right! Our friend and I decided to skip the starter and to order only a main dish and a dessert, while my partner opted for a starter and a main dish. Unable to finish the starter herself, she shared it with us. It was so large that even the three of us had difficulty finishing it. By the end of the main course we were satisfied, and decided not to order dessert.
The starter in question was aloco sauce, a plate of lightly-fried plantains served on a single large lettuce leaf. A small dish of tomato and onion sauce was served on the side. The chunks of plantain were sweet and tender, and the sauce added tanginess without piquancy. Our friend and I were grateful that my partner had ordered this as a first course because we truly appreciated having the opportunity to share it with her!
For the main course, our friend ordered the traditional Senagalese Poulet Yassa, while I ordered the Poisson Yassa. Yassa is prepared by marinating the chicken or fish with lemon, and subsequently cooking it smothered in onions. At the end of the course, it was obvious that our friend had enjoyed his meal. His plate was so clean that (with the exception of the bones) one would have thought he had not been served anything at all! I enjoyed my Poisson Yassa as well.
My partner ordered Colombo de cabri (goat) as a main course. Though this is a Caribbean, not an African, preparation, she could not resist ordering it because one usually has to go to an Antillean restaurant to find it on the menu. She enjoyed the flavor of the goat and the spices, but said that the gravy (sauce in French) was a little grainier in texture than she would have liked.
Each main dish was served with a large mound of white rice. A dish of spicy-hot pepper sauce was available on the table had we desired to add a bit of zip to our food.
For beverages, our friend and I split a couple of La Gazelle beers. This Senegalese brew comes in a 64cl bottle, so it was perfect for sharing. My partner opted to try the baobab punch and the tamarind punch, as these were flavors that she had not experienced before. Each of us was happy with our chosen beverages.
Service was friendly, but slow.
On that evening, we were fortunate to have Senegalese singer and acoustic guitarist Malick providing the music. Because we were seated right next to the stage, we were at first fearful of being deafened by the amplification of the songs. But we were pleasantly surprised by the gentleness of Malick’s voice and the low volume at which the amplifiers were set.
The bill for three, including one starter, three main courses, two beers, and two punches, came to 53.65€. Had we not reserved a “special offer” through lafourchette.com, the bill would have come to 78.30€.
Porokhane is not on the typical tourist track, and it is not a place to dine if you are looking for stylish décor or rapid service. However, we definitely recommend the cooking!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Picture Perfect Paris: Nichole Robertson
Introduction by Sophie Delon
Nichole Robertson is no stranger to ParisienSalon.com. We’ve featured her photographs on the site many times, and got to know more about her here. To visit her blog is to take a virtual tour around the city of Paris. Although she currently lives in a quaint little New Jersey hamlet just outside New York City, Nichole is a frequent visitor to the French capital, both for work and for pleasure. Her photographs from these trips adorn the walls of collectors around the world and are available for sale at Little Brown Pen. (more…)
Picture Perfect Paris: Photo Tips from the Pros
Introduction by Sophie Delon
Every now and then, we get compliments on the photography we post on ParisienSalon.com, along with questions from readers who want to know how to take better pictures while visiting Paris. So we decided to turn to the professionals that we work with, who have agreed to share some of their carefully cultivated wisdom with you. Our first “Photographer in Residence” in this series is David Henry, a pro living in Paris whose work is currently featured in our “Paris in Pictures” section.
Here’s what David has to say about getting the best pictures from your camera in the French capital.
Is there a place, time or season that you most enjoy when photographing Paris?
Basically, anywhere in the middle of Paris, from place de la Bastille to place de la Concorde, along the river and about a half-mile inland on both sides are fine, plus Montmartre and some other scattered areas are good choices. I also like neighborhoods that are alive with families, kids, Parisians of all ages, out and about, with shops, cafés, boutiques, restaurants, etc.
Any time during the day is fine for taking pictures. Often the weather in Paris can “be problematic.” The solution is often to wait until nighttime, when it doesn’t matter if the sky is clouded over, and Paris turns in to the City of Lights.
Any season is fine with me also. Being a New Englander, I appreciate the colors of fall foliage. On the other hand, it can be much easier taking pictures of buildings and monuments in the winter when there aren’t any leaves on the trees. The summer is naturally the best time for taking classic urban landscape pictures with full-open blue skies and puffy white clouds. And the sun goes down at 10:00 pm, meaning the light is golden, softer, and comes in at a magic low angle between 6:00 and 8:30 pm. In the winter I keep an eagle eye on the weather forecasts looking for snow as pictures of snow in Paris are very rare and valuable since it hasn’t particularly snowed much for the last 25 years here.
How can someone take a good, powerful and memorable photograph with a point-and-shoot camera?
When it’s sunny out the important thing is to “compose according to the light.” Take your pictures either entirely in the sun, or entirely in the shadows, and avoid compositions that are too evenly divided between the sun and the shadows because that will always be frustrating. In such a photo the bright areas will be overexposed, fried out and empty, or the shadows will be entirely black, and there’s no setting that allow the correct exposure everywhere in the photo. Between the two I always go straight for the sun-lit areas, because it’s the sun that brings out textures, patterns and motifs on buildings, façades, trees and so forth. Along these same lines, avoid backlit situations and keep your back to the sun. Concretely, “composing according to the light” means zooming in more. Pictures taken at a wide-angle focal length often have wild differences in brightness. All of this will be harder to notice on a cloudy day though it’s still best to keep the sun behind you, even when the sun is hidden behind the clouds. Actually, all of this advice holds true even with the most expensive of cameras.
How can a visiting photographer really capture the essence of the city in their photographs?
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and “the essence of the city” will mean something different to each and every person. That said, I’d say the key is to have at least a few days at your disposal, and to be adventurous, optimistic and energetic, and put the time in. Keep walking, and if you feel underwhelmed by one place, keep walking on to the next neighborhood you have in mind. Look at maps. When you see streets that are windy, meandering, and don’t follow some straight grid pattern, this means it’s an older part of town; try heading off there.
Is there a camera setting that you use as your “go to” setting for your favorite photos?
I take 95% of my pictures in Aperture Priority Automatic, indicated by an A on most cameras (AV on Canon and Pentax cameras). Keep the lens stopped down halfway (ƒ8–ƒ11 on most reflex lenses), keep tabs on the shutter speed, and raise or lower the sensitivity, and/or open or close the lens in order to get faster or slower shutter speeds. For the last ten years cameras have all kinds of silly scene modes, with icons of hats, flowers, mountains, snowmen, skiers, palm trees, etc. I find all of them to be quite useless, and Green Mode (the completely automatic mode) is frankly the worst.
What final piece of advice would you give an amateur photographer visiting Paris?
Get “the lay of the land” and take a look at what pictures have already been taken. Take a look at postcards on racks outside shops, browse coffee table books filled with pictures inside shops. You’ll see photos you like and others you will be less enchanted with. But you’ll get an idea of which neighborhoods you’d like to visit and what kinds of photos you’ll want to take there. I learned this trick when I saw the Guggenheim museum in New York at the age of 15. I was fascinated with the interior architecture, and frustrated because I didn’t have much of an idea of how to take compelling pictures there. I went to the gift shop, looked at the postcards and books for ten minutes, came back and took at least a dozen fine photographs. This tip will work for any place in the world you’ll go to.
What kind of camera / equipment do you shoot with?
I’ve used Nikon cameras ever since I was able to afford one, an FM at $200 at the age of 19. I bought my first digital reflex, a Nikon D90, two and a half years ago and have been very happy with it ever since. I make a point of buying additional accessories each year, things that I suspect will help significantly or will make picture-taking that much more fun. It took a while for digital photography to come out of its adolescent phase, though. Even the cheapest digital reflex made in the last two years is capable of taking perfectly fine pictures of professional quality.
All photographs on this page are courtesy of and copyrighted by David Henry.
Midnight in Paris
Reviewed by Linda Donahue
Who among us hasn’t been lured to Paris because of the romance of a bygone era—a time when Ernest Hemingway took his Moveable Feast across the French capital, cavorting with the likes of Gertrude Stein, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Ezra Pound, James Joyce and F. Scott Fitzgerald. Such is the basis of Woody Allen’s latest film, Midnight in Paris, a movie starring Owen Wilson, Rachel McAdams and Michael Sheen as modern-day visitors to the city, with Marion Cotillard, Kathy Bates and Adrian Brody tagging along as denizens of 1920s Paris. (more…)
Your Guide to the Summer Sales in Paris
Story by Kaelyn Beck
Ask me my favorite time of the year in Paris, and I’ll tell you that it’s the soldes. Unlike in the U.S., retail sales are regulated by the French government. So, just twice a year, stores throughout the country are permitted to hold sales and clear their shelves of old merchandise at often deep discounts. (more…)
My Paris Favorites: Alexandre Besombes
Introduction by Sophie Delon
Alexandre Besombes is used to being asked for recommendations. It is, after all, what he does. As the man who, along with partner Carine, leads Privé Concierge – P.S. Privé‘s personal concierge service – Alexandre knows Paris inside and out. More than that, he is constantly in search of the newest spots around the French capital, from restaurants to boutiques and other hot spots.
You might say that all of this is his passion. Alexandre left a very successful career with JP Morgan to follow his dream of sharing Paris with visitors and locals alike. And he gets to do just that with Privé Concierge, where he does everything from booking private shoppers, restaurant reservations and tours, to providing VIP access to exclusive events and behind the scenes tours of Paris attractions. Alexandre and Carine have even helped coordinate romantic moments, from proposals to weddings and anniversary celebrations. (Concierge services are available by the day or a la carte.)
Alexandre has been gracious in sharing some his favorite spots around Paris … places you know just have to be good!
Paris Neighborhood
Pigalle district. Crazy nightlife in this area with a lot of energy, nice restaurants in the rue des Martyrs, close to Montmartre, Abbesses and its hundreds of bars for locals.
Restaurant (French)
Petrus on Pereire Place (17th arrondissement). A great gastronomic restaurant with mostly locals, quiet and high quality food. Please try the wonderful chocolate fondant ! I would go to hell for this one.
Restaurant (Ethnic)
I love Japanese food so I would probably say Benkay, the best in Paris.
Cheap Eats
La Pasta Papa on rue Daunou in the 2nd. This is the typical restaurant for a quick inexpensive bite, with large portion and quality pastas.(There are Pasta Papas in various locations around the city.)
Food/Gourmet Shop
Would say la Ferme de Levallois near the American Hospital. It offers chic, expensive, unique gourmet items such as a really large range of wild boar saucissons.
Department Store
Le Bon Marché obviously! The quality and service in this department store are immaculate, and you have space to move around, as it is not ever too crowded.
Chocolate Shop
La Maison du Chocolat at la Madeleine. The manager there offers a great service and I love the quality of their chocolate
Speciality Boutique
Gibert Jeunes: I love to look for second-hand books in the narrow alleys of this bookstore in St Michel district.
Men’s Boutique
Savile House near the Opera. A great place for true lovers of luxury business suits.
Photo courtesy of the Plaza Athenée
Place for Cocktails
The Bar of the Plaza Athénée: it has beautiful clients, nice cocktails, and an amazing glass bar.
Music Spot
Le Motel in Charonne district. With inexpensive drinks, an original choices of bands, this is the recipe for a really great evening.
Patisserie /Boulangerie
This is a tough one ! I’ll go for Gerard Mulot, I like the fact that even if his business is so successful, Mr. Mulot still works on a daily basis in his bakery and takes time to chat with his clients. Every product in this boulangerie is delicious, believe me.
Breakfast Spot
I do not have time for long breakfasts during weekdays. But during the week-end, I’ll go for a brunch at The Kube Hotel in the 18th for instance.
Quiet Spot
The Buttes Chaumont. You feel well to be at some altitude in this park, there are not a lot of people here, compared to Luxembourg Gardens or the Parc Monceau for instance. Otherwise, there are a couple of incredible quiet inner-court gardens in the Marais but I will keep the addresses for me!
Paris indulgence
A pastry by Pierre Hermé for Sunday lunch. Every time I have one delicious pastry like the 2000 feuilles by Pierre Hermé, I know I treat myself well during the week-ends !!
Day trip from Paris
Honfleur. But only during the weekdays as it is too much crowded during the week-ends, and you may lose a half day on the road on Sunday nights. It feels like a great escapade far from Paris and it is so nice to have a lunch on the little harbor.
France vs America: Dangerous Liaisons
Story by Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
François Mitterrand had a second family, a long-time mistress who bore him a daughter, something the French media and public suspected by never questioned. And nobody in France batted an eye when wife and mistress stood together at his funeral in 1996. (more…)
