Au Paradis Tropical
24, rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth
75003 Paris
Phone: 01.42.72.08.92
Metro Station: République (Lines 3, 5, 8, 9, 11) and Temple (Line 3)
Type of cuisine: Haïtian and Antillean
Days & hours of operation:
Mon to Thurs Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – 11:30 p.m.
Fri to Sat Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – 1:30 a.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
Au Paradis Tropical is a modest restaurant with a bar located in the front room, a main dining room in the back, and additional dining space upstairs. The walls in the main dining room display dark wood paneling and sky blue and yellow wallpaper decorated with foliage. It is a comfortable place to enjoy cuisine from Haïti and the French Antilles. Because the restaurant won the coveted Marmite d’Or award for Afro-Caribbean restaurants in 2009, we had high hopes for our meal.
We began with an apéritif. I ordered a Punch au fruit de la passion, and my partner a Punch gingembre. Each punch contained a generous portion of rum, making the beverages quite potent. My punch was mildly sweet with seeds of passion fruit clinging to the bottom of the glass. My partner’s drink contained pulverized ginger root. Both beverages were invigorating!
Both my partner and I wanted a Haïtian dining experience on this particular evening. (Haïtian restaurants are surprisingly uncommon in Paris.) I selected from the three-course Menu Créole priced at 30€. (The menu included the punch that I had selected as an apéritif. Not a bad deal!) For the starter, I ordered the Assiette haïtienne, consisting of Bananes pesées, griots, and piclise (all traditional Haïtian dishes). Bananes pesées are green banana fritters; griots are small, fried portions of tender pork; piclise is a spicy salad of shredded cabbage and carrot. The assiette was a generous, appetizing portion of food.
Although my partner ordered à la carte, she chose the same starter that I had chosen – with one difference – she chose to have Aloco (fried plantain) in place of Bananes pesées. Aloco is sweeter than Bananes pesées; after having tasted my Bananes pesées, my partner declared that she was happy that she chose to order Aloco.
For the main course, I selected Bœuf aux cristophines, a dish consisting of stewed beef with slices of pear squash. A mound of black rice was served alongside. The rice had been cooked with djon-djon, a black mushroom native to Haiti, and had taken on its color and delicate smoky flavor.
My partner ordered Tassot de cabri, large morsels of goat that had been marinated in spices and lime, and then grilled. The goat was served with a mound of Riz djon-djon, a small bowl of spicy sauce for dipping, and another serving of aloco. Eating goat in Paris is a rare treat, and my partner savored every bite of her dish.
For dessert, I chose the Blanc manger à la noix de coco, a sweet, creamy coconut flan served with a maraschino cherry. It was delectable, and I found myself wishing that I had ordered a second helping. Foregoing the dessert, my partner ordered a Punch coco. Served in a small glass with a single ice cube, the coconut beverage had the appearance of amaretto liqueur. It was sweet and quite potent.
All of the portions of food were generous. We think that one could order only a main course here and walk away feeling quite satisfied.
We found the service to be friendly and helpful.
The bill for two, including two punches, one beer, one three-course menu with beverage, one starter, and one main course, came to 72€. A good price and a great place to go for Haïtian cooking!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
My Paris Favorites: Alisa Morov
Introduction by Linda Donahue. All photos taken by Ferrante Ferranti courtesy of VerySwell.
I recently met Alisa Morov at a fabulous soirée she co-hosted with Louise Brody of Atelier 7. The two women launched VerySwell, a fun new project that combines exclusive settings with imaginative cuisine and fun themes. The Mad Men Cocktail Club, the kickoff for their collaboration, was held in Picasso’s former atelier on Boulevard Raspail. Guests attired themselves in cocktail dresses and suits at least inspired by the era, while sipping cocktails, eating fabulous finger foods prepared by Alisa’s company, and enjoying a background soundtrack from the 50s and 60s.
Alisa, who moved to Paris from Los Angeles nine years ago, is the kind of gal who makes you feel right at ease in a crowd of strangers, and the two of us spent the night convinced we’d met before. We still haven’t figured that one out, but I was dazzled by this energetic woman who, juggles motherhood with her own company, the American-inspired Sweet Pea Baking, while releasing two cookbooks. Her third book, “Happy Gateaux” was just released and is available in bookstores and on Amazon.fr.
Alisa took the time from her crazy schedule to share some of her Paris favorites with us.
Paris neighborhood
The area that straddles the 10th and the 11th arrondissements, starting at the Canal St. Martin and moving south and east, exploring all the little streets, towards metro Parmentier and metro Couronnes. You can feel art living in the streets, in the cafés, shops, bars and galleries. It’s inspiring, comfortable – it feels like “home”.
Restaurant (French)
Chateaubriand in the 11th. I was there on the third day after they opened, and I still feel the same. The food is amazing, surprising, a “wow” for the senses. The atmosphere is sexy, comfortable, fun. All the best reasons for liking anything.
Restaurant (Ethnic)
Choosing just one is a bit of a challenge. Today, it would be Anahuacalli at 30 Rue des Bernardins in the 5th arrondissement. The best Mexican food and margaritas I have found in Paris (and coming from a Southern California girl, this is a huge endorsement). The atmosphere is warm, inviting, authentic, but not kitschy.
Cheap eats
L’As du Fallafel at 34, rue des Rosiers in the Marais, because it is so, so good! Even the event of getting a table is fun. I’ve tried other things there, and they are good, but nothing beats the signature Falafel sandwich with their homemade Harrisas (red and green).
Food/gourmet shop
I find great, weird foodstuff in the tiniest, most unusual places. For the consistent “Oh, look what I found,” it’s a toss-up between Tang Freres (48 avenue d’Ivry, 13th arr.) and La Grande Epicerie de Paris (38 Rue de Sèvres in the 7th). I can’t imagine my cooking being as fun without these two.
Department store
This one is easy: Le Bon Marché (24 Rue Sèvres, 7th arr.). The shoes, the furniture, the cooking department, the clothes. Equally important to my shopping life is Merci (111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 3rd arr.). It’s sort of a department store, right? Between the store and its cafés, I’d just like to live there.
Chocolate shop
Michel Cluizel (201 Rue St Honoré, 1st arr.) for the taste, the beauty, the creativity – the Orangettes dipped in chocolate.
Specialty boutique
G.Detou (58, rue Tiquetonne, 2nd arr.) and MORA (13 Rue Montmartre, 1st arr.), for ingredients, tools and supplies. As a baker and a cook, these two equal heaven.
Women’s Boutique
Trésor by Brigitte Masson (6 Rue Trésor, 4th arr.). Beautiful, original, sexy, fun and wearable.
Place for cocktails
There are so many places still unexplored. Right now, for a great martini, a hot dog and quirky ambiance, Harry’s Bar (5 Rue Daunou 2nd arr.). Searching for great cocktails and food is, however, what led to starting VerySWELL. Our signature champagne cocktail calls my name. (Not meant to make a shameless plug, but it is so good.)
Music spot
I eagerly await La Fête de la Musique every year. I pick a different neighborhood each time. It’s all serendipity, magic and some great music finds. This year, the Féte is on June 21st.
Patisserie /Boulangerie
My favorite is Le Moulin de la Vierge, (166, avenue de Suffren, 15th arr.), with artisanal breads and perfect pastries very worth the calories. For a complete indulgence, Pierre Hermé at any and all locations.
Breakfast spot
Chez Moi. Mornings with my children are unbeatable, with the Nespresso machine on, a view of the Seine, a baguette with wonderful butter or my homemade scones. And it doesn’t matter what I wear.
Quiet spot
There are a few places along the Seine where I love to hang out, read, get a tan and watch the boats.
- Close to where the canal dumps into the river.
- “South” of Eiffel Tower, going toward Alle de Cinges.
- A place I need to keep secret so I can keep it all to myself.
Paris indulgence
At the Lobby lounge in the Hotel Meurice (rue de Rivoli, 1st arr.), every chair is different. After champagne and caviar with a few close friends, a walk around Paris at night crossing bridges before grabbing a taxi very late in the night and asking the driver to take the long way home.
Day trip from Paris
Almost anywhere in Normandy, where I can enjoy nature, cheese, and cows with soft ears.
Healthy Eats in Paris
Story by Kate Alper
Paris may be the city of love and light but it is most certainly also the city of carbs. Healthy, quick meals are hard to find and most restaurants do not offer large salads apart from classics like salade du chevre chaud and salade niçoise. (more…)
Ô Chateau: Paris’ Trendiest Wine Bar
Story by Linda Donahue. Photos courtesy of Ô Chateau.
I first met Olivier Magny in an airport. It was early morning on Thanksgiving Day, 2009. Orly Airport was barely awake, much like the passengers and staff who mulled about sleepily. But Olivier was alert, excited and ready to charm, and his energy was infectious. (more…)
Paris in the Bag: Handbag Designer Kasia Dietz
Story and photos by Lindsey Tramuta of Lost In Cheeseland
Throughout history, creative individuals have flocked to Paris in search of inspiration to refine and evolve their craft. Monet, Picasso, Dali, Josephine Baker, Langston Hughes, Miles Davis, and most recently, Lenny Kravitz. Lured by the city’s beauty, cultural diversity and widely supported art scene, all types of artists – from writers and painters to musicians and photographers – make Paris home for an inexplicable sense of creative freedom and energy unlike anything they’ve ever felt before.
Designers and stylists also reap the benefits of being in a city where fashion is a crucial component of everyday life and where they may be surrounded by some of the world’s greatest and most influential fashion powerhouses. It’s easy to understand why emerging designers would want to introduce their collections in one of the fashion capitals of the world to the savviest and most discerning of consumers.
Unfortunately, much of what is available in the way of unique, quality apparel and accessories will max out the average woman’s budget. Enter Kasia Dietz- a former ad girl and authentic New Yorker with an unrelenting passion for design and an infectious love for travel. The Kasia Dietz collection of bags and totes is affordable, wearable art with motifs inspired by her travels, minimalist art and 70’s prints designed by her mother; truly one-of-a-kind creations. I sat down with Kasia at a local café for an espresso and a tête-à-tête to find out more about how she got into designing, her recent re-launch and the hurdles she has come across bringing her brand to Paris.
Lindsey Tramuta: You were an art buyer in the fast-paced world of advertising in NYC. What motivated you to launch a side project, more specifically, a line of bags?How is designing and producing your pieces in Paris different than in NYC? Any specific challenges that surprised you?
Kasia Dietz: In NYC I found a manufacturer through a friend, showed him my samples and began production. I had no prior knowledge or experience of the garment industry, but soon found my way. In Paris, quite a different story. My greatest barrier aside from the language, is the closed nature of the people and the difficulty in making the necessary contacts. Many an afternoon I spent in this search, following the hum of sewing machines, and often being met with a ‘ce n’est pas possible’. While in NYC, it seemed that everything ‘is possible’. These ‘adventures’ between the garment districts of Montmartre and the Sentier provoked me to create my own patterns and samples, and I even began cutting fabric at home. Finally, with a lot of persistence and a little luck, I found the manufacturer I was in search of, and production began, leading to my new collections.
In terms of designing, since living in Paris I have expanded my collections to reflect the need for an all-day fashion savvy yet practical handbag. Additionally, I welcomed the international fabric selection which suits my most recent travel tastes
LT: Paris fashion is known for being on the more discreet side of the color spectrum – lots of black, white, navy, beige, gray with only hints of color. What is your strategy for attracting the French market to a more vibrant and colorful line of accessories?
KD: I have noticed that Parisian women make a statement with their accessories, carefully chosen much like a work of art. In this manner they create their individual style. My handbags and accessories definitely draw attention while serving to compliment a more discreet color palette. My strategy is to appeal to this fashionable elite, considering each bag is one-of-a-kind. Additionally, the reversibility factor tailors to an eccentric side as well as to the discreet side of a ‘Parisian’ woman.
LT: Within only a couple weeks of re-launching, your bags can already be found on the UK-based online boutique Not On the High Street and Swelle Boutique. What are your plans for further distribution?
KD: I’m thrilled to already have so much interest in my new collections. My plans are to continue selling in major cities around the world as well as expanding distribution to smaller towns and beach resorts frequented by an international fashion-savvy clientèle. After all, it’s life in a big city combined with my affinity for small villages that serve as inspiration for my designs.
LT: Out of all the bags in your latest collection, which best reflects this Parisian chapter in your life?
KD: Since I fell in love with Paris many years ago, I have always been drawn to the right bank for it’s history and elegance. I may very well cross the river in time, but for the moment ‘rive droite’ from the Paris Collection best represents this chapter of my life. Perhaps a ‘le haute marais’ bag would make an even stronger statement!
Kasia Dietz’s fabulous totes and bags are available for sale at shop.ParisienSalon.com.
My Paris Favorites: Forest Collins
Introduction by Linda Donahue
Forest Collins takes cocktails seriously … but always with a twist. This American expat in Paris, known as 52 Martinis, sets off each Wednesday evening to a new destination in the French capital in search of the perfect cocktail, often with some of her blog’s followers, and then writes about it. Other nights, she’s learning the art of the cocktail and sharing it all with her readers. (more…)
Findi
24, avenue George V
75008 Paris
Phone: 01.47.20.14.78
Metro Station: Franklin D. Roosevelt (Line 1)
Type of cuisine: Italian
Days & hours of operation: Open every day of the week from noon to 3:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express
Findi is located across the street from the American Cathedral on avenue George V, one of the most prestigious streets of Paris. The restaurant is decorated in a modern-classical motif, with large mirrors, gold-painted walls with an antique finish, potted plants, crimson curtains, comfortable, fabric-covered chairs, and, in one room, a fireplace mantel supporting a massive pediment with immense pyramids. While we dined, bossa nova and jazz played over the sound system.
We had made our reservation though a Web-based reservation service called lafourchette.com, which offered four beverages (apéritif, wine, mineral water, and coffee) and a three-course dinner for the inclusive price of 59€ per person. This seemed to us to be a reasonable price to pay, given the location of the restaurant and the choices (four starters, four mains, and four desserts) that the menu offered.
I requested a Bellini à la Pêche for my apéritif. I learned later that a Bellini is a popular cocktail that originated in Venice. It is made with sparkling wine (usually Prosecco) and peach purée. A slightly-sweet beverage, it is quite refreshing. My partner chose the Coupe de Moscato, a sweet white wine from the province of Asti.
For the starter, I opted for the Tartare de Noix de Saint-Jacques à la Vanille et Citron Vert. The waiter served a plate containing a small green salad and a mound of fresh, chopped scallops flavored with vanilla and lime. Generally eschewing raw meats and raw seafood, this dish was new to me, but I found its flavor and texture entirely satisfying.
My partner decided on the Chiffonade de Bresaola et sa Mousse de Chèvre Frais. Bresaola is air-dried, salted beef that comes from the Lombardy region. Dark red in color and finely sliced, it was served with a cream made from goat cheese. The beef was sweet, slightly musty, and surprisingly filling.
The appearance on the menu of Raviolis Noirs au Homard, Bisque de Gingembre, was my opportunity to try yet another Italian dish that I had never sampled. These were large raviolis colored jet-black with squid ink, stuffed with lobster, cooked al dente, and served in ginger-flavored bisque in a wide-brimmed bowl. A small serving dish of finely grated Parmesan cheese was provided to sprinkle over the ravioli à volonté.
My partner was tempted by the Osso Bucco à l’Orange et son Risotto Safrané. She received a generous portion of unctuous veal in a thick, textured, flavorful sauce. She was disappointed with the “risotto” that was served alongside. Rather than the rich, creamy rice dish that she was expecting, she was served a standard, fluffy, lightly perfumed rice. The Osso Bucco, however, was perfectly cooked. The sauce was particularly appealing – it was thick, chunky with bits of cooked carrot, and slightly sweet with the flavor of orange. A thin slice of orange was served atop the rice mound that accompanied the veal.
The menu offered a choice of red or white wine. I requested the Orvietto Blanc and my partner the Merlot del Trentino. Orvietto is an Italian wine region located in Umbria and Lazio in central Italy. The pale-yellow wine had a fragrant, fruity bouquet and a slightly bitter citrus flavor that I enjoyed. My partner also enjoyed her Merlot del Trentino, a fruity red wine with notes of chocolate from the province of Trentino in North East Italy.
A basket of bread rolls was served alongside. We poured Bio Alba olive oil (from the Calabria region of the Italian peninsula) onto our plates and dipped morsels of bread into the fruity-tasting liquid. My partner also indulged in the balsamic vinegar from Modena that was also bottled by Bio Alba. Delicious!
For dessert, we each ordered the Tiramisu classique. The waiter served us a roughly 4” by 3” slice of Tiramisu, a two-layered dessert standing about 1” high consisting of a top layer of cream (made of mascarpone cheese) and a bottom layer of coffee-imbued cake, all resting on a squiggle of coffee-flavored syrup. A superb way to end a fine Italian meal!
The service was friendly and helpful. The waiter expressed concern that my partner did not finish her rice, and was pacified by her explanation that she wanted to save room for dessert.
The bill for two persons came to 118€.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
My Paris Favorites: Gail Boisclair
Introduction by Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
Gail Boisclair loves a good story, and her path to becoming a resident of Paris ten years ago is filled with them. (You’ll hear some of them in a feature on Gail in coming weeks.) The Toronto native is the owner of PerfectlyParis, a company that offers short-term Paris apartment rentals, specializing in Montmartre and its surrounding areas. Conde Nast Traveler even named the company the top Villa Rental Specialist for Paris four years in a row. She and her team also publish the PerfectlyParis blog, which offers their insights on, well, everything Paris. (more…)
48 Hours in Paris: Day Two
Story and photos by Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
Are you all rested after your first 24 hours in the French capital? Yesterday’s itinerary took us through the Latin Quarter, Saint-Germain and across the Seine to either the Louvre or to the Île de la Cité before wrapping up with a night in Montmartre. (more…)
48 Hours in Paris: Day One
Story and photos by Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
I can still remember my first time in Paris, and how daunting it felt to have a week to explore everything the French capital had to offer. I was overwhelmed by all the possibilities while terrified that I’d miss something important. So when I get emails from readers and friends alike that they have just two days in Paris, I’m overcome by sympathetic panic attacks. How can anyone possibly get a sense of this incredible place in just 48 hours? (more…)
What to Pack for Paris This Spring (and What to Hack)
Story by Dani Lazar
There’s nothing like springtime in Paris. The flowers are in bloom, the weather is warming up and lingering over lunch, drinks and dinner at the city’s outdoor cafés becomes a true pleasure. So when preparing for your visit to the French capital, there are definitely certain items you should pack in your suitcase for season. Likewise, there are things that you should just leave at home. (more…)
A Dog’s Life in Paris
Story by Linda Donahue
Ella, my eight-year-old Yorkshire Terrier, is a very popular pup. She’s not just adorable, she’s also personable. So, in Miami, she pretty much has the whole city eating out of her paws. She’s been welcomed in stores both large and small, at outdoor restaurants and in every single public space there is. (more…)
Tee in Paris: Paris for Golfers
Story by Sophie Delon
When one thinks of golfing getaways, Paris probably doesn’t make it to the top of the list. So most people are pretty surprised to find out that there are actually quite a few ways to hit the links in the French capital, with more than a few courses to choose from in and around the city. (more…)
Le Palanka
15, rue des Lombards
75004 Paris
Phone: 01.42.77.29.26
Metro Station: Châtelet (Lines 1, 4, 7, 11, 14)
Type of cuisine: African
Days & hours of operation: Open every day Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, Amex
Located just steps away from Duc des Lombards jazz club, Le Palanka has been serving African cuisine in Les Halles quarter since 2008.
Gray walls and carpet, offset by black chairs, white table cloths, and red table covers give a subdued tone to the dining room. The room is long and narrow, but the tables are arranged in a way that provides ample space to diners. The décor is an eclectic mix of kitchy chandeliers, African art, cascading faux flower arrangements, and crimson curtains.
After we were seated, we ordered apéritifs, a Mongozo beer flavored with banana for me and a Rhum arrangé flavored with ginger for my partner. I am always delighted when I find Mongozo served in restaurants, as it is a delicious, sweet, and refreshing beverage. And my partner enjoys the Rhum arrangé. It is sometimes difficult to find this beverage in restaurants, as the fruit requires several weeks of maceration. Generally, one finds rum punch instead.
The restaurant offers a 35€ menu (with no choice of dishes), which I decided to order. The first course was a Rafraîchi de papaye verte épicée and Accras de morue served in a wide-brimmed bowl. I enjoyed a mixed-green salad covered with a layer of shredded green papaya, all topped with eighteen small, deep-fried, ball-shaped cod fish cakes. These had a firm, dark-brown crust and a soft interior, and did not taste fishy at all. The shredded papaya and mixed salad were flavored with a mildly spicy dressing.
My partner ordered à la carte and also chose the Rafraîchi de papaye verte épicée as a starter. However, her à la carte dish did not come with Accras de morue, which, in fact, pleased her since she does not like seafood. She enjoyed the shredded, green papaya salad, and appreciated the hint of chili in the dressing.
My main course was an assiette de dégustation, a wide, narrow, three-part dish comprised of Sanglier au chocolat indigène odika, Poelée de crevettes abégane, and Confit de volaille sauce yassa. While the first portion was translated on the menu as “beef meat with brown almonds [sic] sauce,” a more correct translation would be “wild boar with indigenous chocolate.” In any event, I found the meat to be fork-tender and sweet. It did not taste gamey as wild boar would taste. The Poelée de crevettes abégane were plump, sautéed shrimp served with sliced zucchini that had been cooked in a butter sauce with crushed egussi almonds. And the third dish, Confit de volaille sauce yassa, was a moist and tender cut of roasted thigh of chicken. The chicken was supposed to be cooked in and served with a sauce yassa (a fricassee of onions), but the waitress told us that the kitchen was out of it. This was a disappointment, as poulet yassa is a prized dish in Senegal.
Upon learning that the kitchen could not prepare chicken with yassa, my partner requested the Pantade grillée à la béninoise sauce moyo. She was served half of a roasted guinea hen that had been dusted with a pale-yellow crumbly substance. She found the meat to be quite tender, which is unusual for guinea fowl. The bird was served with a small tumbler containing a spicy sauce of onions and tomato.
Along with our main courses, we were each served a generous mound of white rice and a slice of pan-fried plantain. A plantain is a variety of banana, and when pan-fried, it makes for a sweet, delicious dish.
Fresh, thick-cut baguette was served alongside in a basket. The bread had a crunchy crust, a chewy crumb, and large alveoli throughout. We noticed that the waitress left the restaurant to purchase this delicious bread. Her selection was excellent!
My partner forewent dessert. My dessert came with the menu and I had no choice but to proceed to eat a warm, dense, very moist, chocolate cake, which was named L’envie au chocolat. It was served atop a stripe of caramelized sugar syrup with three dollops of whipped cream. A nice European finish to a good African meal!
The bill for two, including two beers, two rhums arrangés, a starter, a main course, and one 35€ menu, came to 80€.
Though the waitress was a bit inexperienced, the service was friendly and helpful.
We believe that Le Palanka may be experiencing difficulties in staying open for service. We were the sole diners during lunchtime on Tuesday, January 4. We also recently learned that the original chef, Chef Christian Abégan, is no longer there. When we arrived for a lunchtime appointment to interview the new chef, we found the door closed and locked. A man came to the door and reluctantly opened it. In response to our insistance that we had an appointment, he told us that the chef was not there. If Le Palanka closes, this will be the end of a brief era of fine African cuisine on rue des Lombards! We advise diners to call the restaurant before making plans to eat there.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
The Deputy Mayor of a Greener Paris
Story edited by Sophie Delon. Photos by Linda Donahue
Denis Baupin is the Deputy Mayor of Paris for Sustainable Development, the Environment and the Climate Plan. In this insightful interview, Mr. Baupin shows us his Paris and describes future projects for Paris to make it an ever more welcoming city. (more…)
April Events in Paris: Eye Need to Do
Spring has sprung in Paris, and as the weather gets even better, it’s the perfect time to visit Paris. There are plenty of exciting things happening in the French capital in April, including the ones Richard Nahem, our Eye Prefer Paris guru, thinks are the best of the best. (more…)
Spring has Sprung in Paris
Story and photos by Linda Donahue
The days are longer, the air warms up and, every now and then, the clouds take a day off – or at least a few hours. Such are the telltale signs that spring has arrived in Paris. After what feels like an indeterminately endless winter, Parisians live for the moment when they can shed the layers and once again begin to linger in the great outdoors of the French capital. (more…)
The Best Burgers in Paris
Story and photos by Lindsey Tramuta, Lost in Cheeseland
The French love to joke that the American diet consists of cheeseburgers, bacon cheeseburgers and diet soda. I find this to be one of the more amusing stereotypes because I’ve actually eaten more burgers in Paris than I ever have on American soil. Despite all their teasing, the French (or at least Parisians) go nuts for a big juicy patty with a side of “American Sauce.” In Paris, if burgers are on the menu, it’s likely to be the most ordered item. (more…)
Agapé
51, rue Jouffroy-d’Abbans
75017 Paris
Phone: 01.42.27.20.18
Metro Station: Wagram (Line 3)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri Noon – 2:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, Amex
The colors brown and taupe create a soothing ambiance for this restaurant, located in the far reaches of the 17th arrondissement. After we were seated at a window table, we began admiring the white tablecloths, the Bernardaud table napkins, and the Reidel glassware, all expressions of subtle elegance. Even the napkin rings, designed by Andrée Putman, impressed us when the waitress showed how they transform into a holder for our Perceval knives. Have we dropped enough names? We feel so exuberant about this establishment that we cannot stop gushing!
We took advantage of a promotion that we found on lafourchette.com Web site that offered 50% off the price of the restaurant’s Menu carte blanche la fourchette au déjeuner. We have used La Fourchette’s reservation service before, and from our experience we knew that we would get a great dining experience at half price. Even so, we realized that we would end up spending a pretty penny if we ordered wine with our meal (the price of beverages is not included in this promotion). In spite of this awareness, we threw caution to the wind and ordered a bottle of Vouette et Sorbée Fidèle, an extra-brut from 2006. The champagne, produced only from Pinot Noir grapes, was lightly tinted rose and had a delightful freshness and sparkle with mineral notes.
The menu that was served was a menu surprise, meaning that we did not have any choice about what we would be served apart from telling the waitress at the beginning of the meal whether we were adverse to certain foods (such as seafood).
We were served two amuse-bouches. The first consisted of small, flavorful crackers that were meant to be consumed with the champagne. The second was a small bowl of lentil velouté containing cubed bits of breast of duck.
For the starter, we were served each a plate containing Noix de veau fumé au bois de hêtre. The paper-thin slices of pink, beech-smoked, round fillet of veal were flavored with lemon and vanilla and garnished with thinly-sliced radish and small, black olives. Herbs gave this flavorful dish color; radishes and olives gave it texture. The dish was both unusual and appetizing!
The second starter was a plate containing Foie gras de Chalosse, mousseline de coing et betterave. Chalosse is an area in the southwest region of France that is prized for its beef and ducks. The portion of foie gras was covered with a paper-thin slice of beet and sat on a bed of quince mousseline. The foie gras was deliciously smooth, but sliced almonds gave it crunchy texture. A dollop of beet syrup was served alongside to give the dish additional sweetness if we desired.
And, yes, there was even a third starter! It was a wide-brimmed bowl of Vélouté de chataigne, crème montée à la moutarde. The chestnut soup was sweet and creamy, but I found that the dollop of mustard-flavored whipped cream floating on the surface was not compatible with the soup. It was an interesting experiment, with each element being perfectly fine on its own. But both my partner and I agreed that the flavors clashed when sampled together.
Finally, the first main course arrived! My partner was served a generous portoin of Noix d’agneau (fillet of lamb) because of her aversion to seafood, while I received Lieu panné, a slice of pan-fried pollock. Both were succulent and tender. As accompaniments, we both were served moussiline panais (puréed parsnips), a single slice of cooked, yellow carrot, thinly-sliced button mushrooms, and bits of broccoli that had been rendered into a sauce.
For the second main course we were each served Fillet de bœuf du Jura, a very tender piece of beef cooked rare and served with baked shallots, tender gnocchi, and a slice of cooked pumpkin.
Following this lineup of delicious courses, we wondered what was in store for us next. We soon found out when the server approached the table bearing a plate containing three cheeses: a sweet and mild goat cheese, a creamy Reblochon, and a Comté affinée 1997. The thirteen-year-old Comté was a special treat with its slightly nutty flavor.
Dessert was a Crème de citron vert, ananas légèrement poêlé, a dollop of ginger sorbet resting in a bed of lime cream and sprinkled with teardrops of bite-size meringue. The cool flavor of the lime contrasted sharply with the spicy-hot ginger. It was a tropical treat!
As though there would be no end to the meal, we were finally served mignardises, consisting of chocolate-raspberry ganaches and caramels.
At the beginning of the service the waiter placed two types of butter on the table, a slab of sweet butter and a slab of seaweed-flavored butter. We also had two different types of bread to choose from—one a slice of country bread and the other a miniature baguette, whose crust had been rolled in cracked grains.
The service was gracious and helpful. At the start of the meal the waiter asked if we preferred to communicate in French or in English. Another waiter, who was also the sommelier, gave us useful advice about the champagnes.
The bill for two persons, including a half-bottle of mineral water, a bottle of champagne, and two promotional (half-priced) menus, came to 225€.
This was a splurge for us, but the end-of-the-year holidays, as well as the attraction of the specially priced menu, gave us reason to celebrate!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
A Little Bit Italian at La Cuisine Paris
Story and photos by Lindsey Tramuta of Lost in Cheeseland
More than a year has passed since my first attempt in baking French macarons. I signed my husband and I up for a class at La Cuisine Paris over Valentine’s Day weekend last year as a way for us to do something together that would involve our love for eating. The options were limitless, really, but given the unwavering fascination with macarons (and my growing interest in baking) I thought it would be a good idea to give them a shot. (more…)
Going Local in Paris
Story edited by Sophie Delon
It used to be that the only places to find produce produced in Paris was in the city’s gourmet food stores, like Lafayette Gourmet or the Grande Épicerie at Bon Marché, or in the stalls of the local street markets, like those on the rue Cler in the 7th, rue ds Lévis in the 17th and the rue Mouffetard in the 5th. But the Slow Food movement has brought about a desire for more locally farmed products, from produce to meat to grains. (more…)
Loyo
18, rue Bachelet
75018 Paris
Phone: 01.42.23.78.18
Metro Station: Château Rouge (Line 4), Lamarck-Caulaincourt (Line 12)
Type of cuisine: Afro-Caribbean
Days & hours of operation: Tuesday to Saturday from 7:00 p.m. to midnight
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
We dined at Loyo after learning that its Sauce Claire had taken second place in the Marmite d’Or award. The restaurant is located on the north side of Montmartre hill, and on this winter night we trekked through snow and ice from the Lamarck-Caulaincourt metro station to reach it. The hostess Kitzi, who hails from the Ivory Coast, greeted us warmly—a welcome counterpoint to the bitter winter scene outside!
The restaurant is decorated in bamboo, colorful print table clothes exhibiting geometrical designs, and paintings depicting African motifs. In the second dining room I saw one particular painting that I liked of the sun blazing down upon hills and valleys.
For an apéritif we both ordered a Rhum gingembre, a potent rum spiced with ginger. The alcohol in this drink will set you back if you are not careful!
The menu lists dishes of Ivorian, Reunionese, and Kenyan inspiration. We both selected a Reunionese dish Bonbons piments, gros pois du Cap as a starter, not knowing too much what to expect. These turned out to be fried patties (fritters) of white beans, served with a spicy slaw of carrot, cabbage, and beet as an accompaniment. The patties were nutty and crunchy, and the slaw was delicate and savory.
Spotting Rougail saucisse (sausage smoked in the Reunion style) on the menu, I ordered this as a main course. The sausage was served in Rougail, a tomato sauce, along with an accompaniment of white rice. I found it lean and firm to the bite, and its smoky flavor appetizing!
My partner ordered Massalé poulet, sauce aux dix épices, another Reunionese dish. Her serving of tender chicken was coated with a Massalé, a thick, brown sauce containing curcuma, cumin, cloves, coriander, and other spices. A generous portion of white rice and the spicy tomato-based condiment Rougail was served alongside.
To accompany the meal, I ordered a beer from Côte d’Ivoire, called Flag. It was mild with a slightly sweet aftertaste. My partner ordered a red house wine.
For dessert, Kitzi invited us to sit in the back room in front of a fire that she had built in the fireplace. Watching the flames and listening to the wood crackle was particularly comforting as I enjoyed my Banane flambée (whole banana in sweet syrup flaming in rum). A sweet end to a good meal!
The bill for two persons, including two apéritifs, two starters, two main dishes, one dessert, one beer, and a small pitcher of wine, came to 65.50€.
Travelers to Paris who want a taste of the cuisine from Africa will find their welcome here!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
All Hail the Taxis of Paris
Story by Sophie Delon
Taxis are a regular part of the landscape of the French capital, with some twenty thousand or so circulating in Paris and the city’s suburbs. They’re clean, comfortable and highly regulated. What’s more, they’re getting a new look, so we thought this was the perfect opportunity to give you the inside scoop on how to Taxi in Paris. (more…)
The Architect of a Modern Paris
Story edited by Sophie Delon
Most visitors walking along the Champs-Élysées stop to admire the C42 Citroën building, although they don’t always know that it’s the work of Manuelle Gautrand. This talented French architect, who has just breathed new life into the Gaîté lyrique, gives us her views on the capital and her vision of the future face of Paris. Born in Montpellier in the south of France, the architect has lived in Paris for fifteen years and considers the French capital dear to her heart. (more…)
