January Events in Paris
By Sophie Delon
The days are shorter and colder, but January in Paris offers plenty of warmth. Perhaps they’re still wrapped up in the joy of the holiday season and the excitement of a new year, or maybe they just need more diversions to get through the winter months, but Parisians have filled the month with some of the most exciting events of the year. (more…)
A Very Paris New Year
From Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
Here we are, ready to once again mark the end of another year and celebrate the start of a new one. I’ve already spent my time reflecting back on 2011 and contemplating all the things I want to accomplish in 2012. I don’t believe in resolutions — I broke too many in my younger days to find any real use in them. But, at this time each year, I always try to find “The Lesson To Be Learned” from the preceding year. I think Oprah would call it an “aha moment.” (more…)
Vin Chaud on a Cold Winter Afternoon
While the editors and writers of ParisienSalon.com enjoy a holiday break, we thought we’d offer this delicious little gem that we ran a few years ago.
Nichole Robertson (of Little Brown Pen) waxes nostalgic for afternoons spent in the Marais drinking vin chaud. On days when it’s too cold to go out, try her recipe and indulge at home! (more…)
Shopping with a Diva in Paris
Story and photos by Linda Donahue
When I mentioned to Toma Clark Haines that I found Les Puces de Saint-Ouen intimidating, she laughed. It wasn’t the first time she’d heard someone say this. In fact, it’s one of the things that led to her transformation as The Antiques Diva®. (more…)
Africasa
59, rue du Cardinal Lemoine
75005 Paris
Phone: 01.43.26.47.73
Metro Station: Cardinal Lemoine (Line 10)
Type of cuisine: World Food
Days & hours of operation: Open every day from noon to midnight.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express
Africasa is located on the slope of rue du Cardinal Lemoine that lies between rue Monge and place de la Contrescarpe. A trendy-looking restaurant, it has a handsome wooden terrace sheltered by two great umbrellas. Within, shades of taupe and huge dome-shaped and spherical lamp shades create an atmosphere of modernity, while bare-stone walls lend an air of rusticity. It is a fusion, of sorts, of opposing décors. Interestingly, the theme of fusion is also reflected in the cuisine, which balances between traditional African and modern French cooking.
Though the restaurant offers a fixed-price menu for 21€, we chose to order à la carte on the evening that we dined there.
Shortly after we were seated, we were served an amuse bouche of fried plantain and fruit juice. The plantain tasted sweet, like a fried banana, and the blend of pulpy orange and pineapple juice was refreshing.
I ordered a starter with a curious-sounding name: Entre Picadilly et Dakar (Fish and Chips à l’africaine). The fish consisted of deep-fried fingers of sole and the chips were deep-fried sticks of yam. Accompanied by a small cup of mayonnaise, they were served each in its own goblet and wrapped in parchment paper. This was a satisfying, filling dish—perhaps too filling, because I began to wonder if I would have an appetite for the main course!
My partner chose a starter intriguingly named La Panafricaine et sa quenelle de glace au basilic. The Panafricaine turned out to be a molded salad of diced red, yellow, and green tomatoes and chopped parsley served with an oval-shaped scoop of basil ice cream. The plate upon which these were served had been drizzled with balsamic vinegar. She found the dish to be light, tangy, and delicious.
L’Africasa offers two traditional African dishes: Mafé de Bœuf, Riz et Bananes Plantain and Poulet Yassa, Riz et Bananes Plantain. I selected the first, and my partner, the second. Mafé de Bœuf is a popular West African dish of chunks of stewed beef served in peanut sauce. The morsels of meat were tender, and the peanut sauce in which they were served was thick and flavorful.
Yassa, also from West Africa, is a spicy, marinated dish of poultry or fish. My partner received a mound of morsels of chicken breast covered with cooked onions and topped with three black olives. She declared the chicken to be perfectly cooked, but the onion topping to be lacking in seasoning compared to Yassa preparations that she has eaten elsewhere in Paris.
Both main dishes were accompanied by a large bowl of rice dressed with a small portion of chopped green and red pepper and red onions.
Fresh, chewy, diagonally-cut baguette was served alongside in a basket.
For the beverage accompaniment, I ordered a Corona beer while my partner ordered a glass of Leopard Leap red wine (a blend of Shiraz and Pinotage grapes) from South Africa. She was pleased that the wine married well with her dish.
For dessert, I ordered a fusion dish: Dèguè en entremets, sauce caramel, beurre salé. Dèguè, another West African dish, is made out of fermented pearl millet. In this restaurant, dèguè is unfermented semolina of manioc blended with panna cotta (Italian cooked cream). I was served a generous-sized goblet of this pudding-like product, topped with a layer of caramel sauce. Although the creamy, grainy pudding itself was not very sweet, the caramel sauce provided the necessary sugar to permit it to be called a dessert.
My partner ordered two scoops of ginger-flavored ice cream. They were served along with a crunchy ice cream cone.
The service was friendly and helpful.
The bill for two, including one beer, two glasses of wine, two starters, two main courses, and two desserts came to 82€.
Diners who want to try African food transformed to suit western tastes and served in a trendy setting will enjoy this restaurant!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Picasso on a Pillow: The Artistry of Jules Pansu
Story by Sophie Delon
Jules Pansu, the son of a modest weaver from Voiron, had a dream to design and manufacture his own fabrics. After seven years of traveling by train all over Europe and Russia, selling silks for a company from Lyon, he knew the trade and was confident he could create the highest quality fabrics—fabrics that would add to the elegance and beauty of any furnishing. His dream came true—in 1878—launching a family-owned dynasty that, 133 years later, still remains one of the most respected purveyors of luxury fabrics around the world. (more…)
Cuisine L’E7
39, avenue de l’Opéra
75002 Paris
Phone: 01.42.61.56.90
Metro Station: Pyramides (Lines 7 and 14) and Opéra (Lines 3, 7, and 8)
Type of cuisine: Trendy French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri 12:00 p.m. – 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, American Express, MasterCard
Cuisine L’E7 is a restaurant operated by the Hotel Edouard 7, located not far from the Palais Garnier. The dining room is quite attractive, with burgundy and bronze fabric on the backs of the chairs and burgundy and rose fabric on the backs of the benches. Textured brown wallpaper and dark wood tones throughout, cherry-wood floors, and tables with aluminized tops with dark-wood trim, all combine to lend a reposing atmosphere to this place. While we dined, lounge music, and then jazz, played over the sound system.
The name Lepers 6° on the drink menu sparked my interest to order this beverage as an apéritif. Served on tap at the bar, it is an artisanal beer brewed in Nord-Pas-de-Calais, one of the twenty-seven regions of France. Unfortunately, the keg was empty so I settled for a 1664 Blanc, a beer brewed from wheat by Kronenbourg. 1664 Blanc is a white beer and was, as the menu described it, fresh with a fruity bouquet. My partner ordered a Kir à la crème de pêche and remarked about how she enjoyed the assertive flavor of the peach.
For the starter (which the restaurant calls préludes), I ordered Chaire et minces de tourteau, gelée de pamplemousse et avocat, mayonnaise ponzu. The waiter brought a wide goblet containing crab meat prepared with ponzu, a citrus-based sauce used in Japanese cuisine. The dish was quite tempting, and the jellied morsels of grapefruit added special appeal. My partner opted for Velouté de potimarron en capuccino de noisette, paysanne de légumes au lard. Served in a wide-brimmed, deep bowl, it was pumpkin soup cradled in a hazelnut-flavored froth and flavored with finely sliced bacon and bits of cooked vegetables.
Continuing the gourmet adventure, I requested Noix de Saint Jacques grillée, purée de courge butternut, émulsion mandarine à la moutarde, a flavorful dish of five plump, succulent grilled scallops resting on a bed of coarsely-puréed butternut squash. The scallops were mouthwatering and the butternut squash added an autumnal touch to the dish. My partner selected Suprême de volaille au romarin, tartine d’aubergine, courgettes grillées, tomates cerises et concombre. It was an unusual and colorful dish. The chicken breast was rolled around a sprig of rosemary and served in the shape of a log. Next to it lay an elongated slice of eggplant topped with baked cherry tomatoes, grilled sticks of zucchini, and rolled slices of cucumber. The chicken was tender and nicely perfumed with the rosemary.
Bread rolls were served alongside in small dishes.
To accompany her meal, my partner ordered a glass of Château Chanteloiseau 2010, a medium-bodied red wine with an assertive finish from Graves—a subregion of the Bordeaux wine region.
Out of the eight desserts from which to choose, I selected Crêpe Suzette et sorbet à l’orange, comme l’aimait Edouard 7. This little bit of information (comme l’aimait Edouard 7) that King Edward VII of England loved crêpes Suzette influenced my choice, and I was served a plate of three folded crêpes topped with a scoop of orange sorbet. The sorbet supplied most of the orange flavor—the pancakes were not doused with Grand Marnier as I had anticipated. My partner decided upon the Mousse de marron en feuilles de brick croustillantes, glace noisette-caramel. Two layers of chestnut mousse sandwiched between three layers of brick pastry made a light, satisfying combination. A scoop of chestnut ice cream provided an additional treat!
The service was friendly and helpful.
The bill for two persons, including two apéritifs, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, and one glass of wine, came to 87.70€. (As we had reserved through lafourchette.com, a 30% discount was applied to the food items. The original total would have been 115.00€).
This restaurant should please diners who seek modern French cuisine presented with stylish panache.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Paris in Focus: Esplanade Invalides
Story by Caitlin Rodgers. Photos by Linda Donahue.
Situated in the seventh arrondisement between the Eiffel Tower and Orsay Museum, Esplanade Invalides is a stretch of Parisian history that’s often overlooked. En route to work, school or tourist spots like the Rodin Museum and Rue Cler’s market, it can be more a place of crossing than destination. Dare to pass though and you’ll discover charming sketches of Parisian quotidian in this stretch of grass and sky. (more…)
A Friday Night in Paris
Story by Linda Donahue
What’s one to do on a warmer-than-usual Friday night in Paris while in the company of a handsome and stylish friend? That was the question I found myself asking last weekend as I met up with my friend in the 6th arrondissement of the French capital. As it turns out, the answer was a no-brainer. (more…)
An American in Paris: Jewelry Designer John Agee
Story by Linda Donahue
In the heart of Paris’ fashionable 6th arrondissement is the rue Jacob, a delightfully quiet street perched between the Boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine. Most of the people found strolling down this street are local residents, people who know the treasures that can be found here—including the enchanting showroom of the American jewelry designer, John Agee. (more…)
Ragueneau
202, rue Saint-Honoré
75001 Paris
Phone: 01.42.60.29.20
Metro Station: Palais-Royal Musée du Louvre (Lines 1 and 7)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m. Sat to Sun Noon – 3:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
The restaurant Ragueneau is named in honor of one of the characters in Edmond Rostand’s famous play about poet and swordfighter Cyrano de Bergerac. Ragueneau was a pastry chef, and upon entering the ground floor of the restaurant, which serves as a salon de thé, you can see his influence. To the left stands a display case that presents myriad pastries available for takeout or for eating sur place.
The theme of the theater is reflected in the décor of the establishment. Its dining room displays heavy cranberry-colored curtains, chairs cushioned in cranberry-colored velour cloth, a cranberry- and gold-colored carpet, and tables with dark-wood finish.
We recently came here for lunch and were seated upstairs, where posters and pictures mounted on the walls display scenes from the famous play.
Having made a reservation through lafourchette.com, we were entitled to a two-course lunchtime menu (starter + main or main + dessert) with a glass of wine included. At 19€, the price seemed right!
We each ordered a Kir à la crème de pêche as an apéritif.
For the starter, I thought that the Pâté Landais en Croûte de Filet de Canard & Foie Gras du Pâtissier Poète sounded good. I received a generous 1.5cm-thick slice of duck pâté in a pastry shell drizzled with a zigzag of balsamic vinegar and accompanied by a small green salad. I found this country-style dish quite tasty.
My partner opted for a Gâteau Tiède de Foie Gras & Champignons Marinés, Roquette. She was served a ceramic cup containing a layer of warm mousse of foie gras atop a thin bed of chopped, marinated mushrooms. A spongy cake-like layer topped the foie gras mousse. She was delighted with the unusual presentation and declared the dish sublime.
As well as starters, the menu offered a wide selection of main courses. I chose Filet de Canette Poëlé Sauce Foie Gras & son Flan de Carotte. The waitress served a plate containing four slices of filet of duck, cooked rare and served in a foie gras sauce. The duck was tender and succulent and was accompanied by a small carrot cake that was dense, like a flan.
My partner’s choice was also a success. The Emincé de Veau Rôti, Gratin de Navet au Parmesan, Jus Court au Romarin turned out to be three generous, well-seasoned slices of roast veal cooked medium (but not cooked medium-rare as requested). The veal was accompanied by a turnip gratin flavored with Parmesan cheese. A satisfying dish!
Fresh, thick-cut, crispy-crust baguette was served alongside in a basket.
To accompany the meal, we ordered a carafe of Château Tour des Gendres, a round, fruity red wine from Bergerac, the region from which Cyrano hailed. Low in tannin, it developed a note of licorice after breathing for some time.
The service was friendly and helpful. One waitress offered to substitute the kir apéritifs that we ordered in place of the wine that came with the fixed-price menu. (Later, we decided to order a carafe of wine after all.) The other waitress, spotting our camera on the table, offered to take our picture.
The bill for two, including two fixed-price lunchtime menus at 19€ each (two apéritifs, two starters, two mains), and a carafe of wine, came to 52€. We were pleased, once again, that we had made our reservation through lafourchette.com. By using this service we learn about fine restaurants that we would otherwise have never heard of, and, at the same time, we reduce our restaurant bill.
This restaurant offers jazz performances on Friday evenings. For further information, visit its Web site.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Incapacitated in Paris: What To Do If You’re Sick
Story by Linda Donahue
Last November, the night before I left for my winter stay in Paris, I had a classic “slip and fall” in a store that resulted in a few stitches in my knee. And this past Sunday, hours before I headed to the airport for that same winter stay, my back started to bother me. A nine-hour airplane ride later, it was a goner. I spent my first day in Paris immobilized and in pain. (more…)
Only in Paris, Only in Winter
Story and photos by Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
In a few days, I’ll be heading back to Paris for my annual winter stay. Temperatures will be brisk (to say the least). There will be no flowers, colorful or otherwise, blooming in the parcs and jardins, and daylight will be fleeting. It’s for these reasons that my friends and family members question my sanity, wondering why, for Pierre’s sake, I would leave warm and sunny Miami for time in cold and dark Paris. (more…)
Chasing the Ultimate Pastry in Paris
Story and photos by Adam Wayda
With no fewer than a million pastry shops within the city limits of Paris, there’s no shortage of éclairs, macarons, and tartes to keep you happy. But what if you’re chasing that ultimate pastry experience? Most self-respecting foodies would suggest you make your way directly to Pierre Hermé or Ladurée. There’s no argument that both, particularly Monsieur Hermé, produce brilliant work you shouldn’t skip, but when it comes to an all-around experience, both are still just shy of the pinnacle.
The reality is that some of the greatest pâtisseries have opened only within the last three years. Unlike many that came before them, the shops themselves are as much a delight as the sweets they hold. Here are four virtually guaranteed to knock your socks off, from the second you walk in the door.
Hugo & Victor: When French Champion pastry chef Hugues Pouget left his role as head pâtissier of the Michelin three star Guy Savoy, he took a little time to travel the world and began collaborating with his childhood friend, Sylvain Blanc, to open the ultra-luxe Hugo & Victor (top photo). Looking like Dior and Cartier fused into one and decided to just sell pastries, it’s home to some of the most innovative sweets around. Ironically, Monsieur Pouget generally uses about 1/3 the sugar others employ, so look forward to sampling elegantly complicated studies on flavor. Top Picks: Hugo Vanille, Earl Grey Chocolate Tarte, Hugo Passion, Victor Verveine (Réligieuse), mango macarons, blueberry macarons, combawa lime macarons, vanilla macarons.
Jacques Genin: After leaving his starring role at La Maison du Chocolat, Jacques Genin built an empire on caramels and chocolates, supplying many of the most famous hotels, restaurants and cafés of Europe – all from a private facility in Paris. Then, in 2008, he opened his sprawling pâtisserie/chocolaterie/confiserie/café in the Marais. No one denies that he has mastered the caramel; you have never had anything close . . . ever. His chocolates are legendary, arguably better than those of Patrick Roger, Michel Chaudun and other greats. His pâtes de fruits are incomprehensibly amazing. And his pastry selection is a lineup of some of the most exquisitely crafted French classics. Top Picks: chocolate éclair, lemon tarte, baba au rhum, caramel éclair, mango-passion caramels, macadamia caramels, ginger caramels, lemon caramels, apricot pâte de fruit, pineapple pâte de fruit, tonka chocolate, réglisse (licorice) chocolate, basil chocolate, dill chocolate.
Un Dimanche à Paris: Heir to the famed French chocolate dynasty of his father Michel, Pierre Cluizel had a vision for an all-chocolate concept store, pastry shop, restaurant, bar, and hot chocolate lounge. He spared no expense bringing it to life. Tucked down a corridor off the popular Boulevard St. Germain, and spanning almost half a city block, Un Dimanche à Paris is two floors of chocolate-centric opulence. Enter the main boutique and get ready to be blown away. The ceiling has been carved to look like the tropical canopy that shades the cacao trees, and you can watch the chefs toil-away all day long in their glass-enclosed kitchen. Top Picks: Hot chocolate (available for 2 euros in the main boutique), Choux Pistache, Croustillant au Grué de Cacao, coquelicot (poppy flower) macarons, candied clementines.
La Pâtisserie des Rêves: French hotelier, Thierry Teyssier, teamed up with world champion pastry chef Philippe Conticini to bring the world of 23rd century pastry to us a couple hundred years earlier than expected. Counterweighted glass bell jars, suspended from the ceiling, showcase a sublime array of treats – from a Venezuelan chocolate-sheathed éclair to a space-age tarte tatin and an impossibly beautiful Saint-Honoré. Even their selection of humble viennoiserie (breakfast pastries) will leave you in awe. Top Picks: Grand Cru, mango tarte, Saint-Honoré, Cylan, chausson aux pommes, brioche.
Adam Wayda is an American gourmand with “a bit” of a sweet tooth. Spending half of each year in Paris, he chronicles Parisian pastry and the great chefs behind it on his site ParisPatisseries.com, which poses the very real risk of making your computer’s monitor ooze with crème pâtissiere.
The Art of the Scent at Jovoy Paris
Story by Liz Cohen
Paris is a city of smells. Freshly baked bread, rotisserie chicken outside of every boucherie, parks damp from rain – these are just a few smells that come to mind when I think of Paris. And of course Paris is a city of art, no list required. It shouldn’t be a surprise, therefore, that the art of smells – perfume – has its home in Paris as well. (more…)
Sweet Treat: An Interview with Adam of Paris Pâtisseries
Interview by Linda Donahue. Photos by Adam Weyda.
There’s absolutely no doubt that Paris is a dream for those with a sweet tooth. The incontrovertible evidence: you can’t walk down a single rue in the French capital without passing at least two patisseries or chocolate shops. Even after countless and extended stays in the city, I still find myself stopping to ogle the colorful displays of cakes, tartlets, eclairs, fondants, and meringues in shop windows. In fact, if I had a euro for every time I was lured into a patisserie to purchase a delectable dessert that caught my eye, I could probably buy my own patisserie. (more…)
Brasserie de l’Hôtel du Louvre
Place du Palais Royal
75001 Paris
Phone: 01.44.58.37.21
Metro Station: Palais-Royal Musée du Louvre (Lines 1 and 7)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Open every day.
7:00 a.m. – 10:00 a.m. and Noon – 10:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express
The Brasserie de l’Hôtel du Louvre lies on place du Palais Royal and is only a stone’s throw from place Colette across the street. From the restaurant, depending upon where one is seated, there are superb views of either square and the magnificent buildings that surround them. It is an ideal place for travelers looking for a impressive location at which to dine!
The interior of the restaurant corresponds with the allure of the neighborhood. Shiny brass coat racks perched on wood-paneled space dividers; seating on plump burgundy- and gold-cushioned benches; cranberry- and navy-colored carpet; windows displaying frosted grand arches and a curtain motif…can the quality of the food here match the sumptuousness of the décor?
We arrived at 7:00 p.m. and were seated in a room that gave a splendid view of place du Palais Royal. Although my partner’s back was turned to the square, she could see it reflected in the huge mirrors on the wall. No matter where one sits, there is an outstanding view!
While sipping our apéritifs, served with goblet of green olives, we studied the menu. For the starter, I ordered Effilochée de daurade à la moutarde en grains et aubergines au pamplemousse, a disk of shredded sea-bream flavored with mustard grains and topped with purée of eggplant flavored with grapefruit. The fish had a delicate flavor, not at all fishy; its flavor contrasted sharply with the bits of grapefruit in the eggplant purée. Surprisingly, the four different ingredients (mustard, sea-bream, eggplant, and grapefruit) made a satisfying combination!
My partner ordered Foie gras de canard aux zestes de citron vert, confit de physalis. She received a plate containing two large triangles of toast, two disks of foie gras, a dollop of red Physalis (a small fruit similar to a tomato) mixed with apricot, and a sprinkling of fleur de sel (sea salt). The foie gras was firm, but yielded in the mouth; its flavor was delicate and buttery. The red Physalis chutney was fibrous looking (like rhubarb), yet its texture was soft and its flavor slightly sweet.
The appearance on the menu of Noix de coquilles Saint-Jacques sur une mitonnée de courgettes apprêtées aux câpres et pignon de pin, vinaigrette à l’orange tempted me, and I was not at all disappointed to receive five large, plump scallops for the main course. Three of the scallops rested on a bed of slow-cooked, diced zucchini and red bell pepper with capers and pine nuts. The scallops were extra-tender and were not overly-seasoned with garlic, as they often are in some restaurants.
My partner enjoyed her Selle d’agneau rôtie au tandoori, jus à la menthe et pointe d’ail. The three thick portions of lamb saddle that she received had been cooked tandoori style and were served with a pitcher of mint sauce subtly flavored with garlic. She had requested that the lamb be cooked rosé (medium rare), and that is the way it arrived. A mixed-green salad was served alongside in a square bowl.
To accompany the meal, we each ordered wine by the glass. My white Vallée de la Loire – Sancerre – 2010 – Domaine Serge Laloue was dry with bright citrus notes. My partner’s Vallée du Rhône – Châteauneuf du Pape – 2007 – Le Clos de l’Oratoire was round, supple, and slightly tannic.
Fresh, thick-cut baguette was served alongside in a basket. As the bread had not been cut all the way through, we had to grasp the loaf by its crispy crust and pull away the pre-cut slice, an action that revealed the soft crumb riddled with alveoli. Delicious!
Dessert was also a grand affair. I opted for the Baba au rhum, crème légère à la vanille parfumée à l’eau de rose et ananas caramélisé, a dense yeast cake resting on caramelized pineapple, soaked in rum, and topped with whipped cream flavored with rose water. My partner selected Pêches sanguines enrobées de mascarpone au citron vert. The dessert that she was served resembled a miniature baked Alaska. It consisted of a layer of chocolate cake, topped with mascarpone and sanguine peaches, all covered with whipped cream, forming a small dome. Surprisingly, she was not fully satisfied with this treat, because she did not expect and did not want the flavor of chocolate to compete with that of the peaches and mascarpone.
The service was efficient, friendly, and helpful, although I was surprised that the waitress did not clear the tablecloth of crumbs (as is usually the case in upscale restaurants) before the dessert was served. (We noted that this was not done for other customers as well.)
While we dined, “beautiful people” music (soothing, soulful, easy listening, contemporary) played over the speaker system.
As we had reserved our table through lafourchette.com, we received a 40% reduction off the price of the meal (beverages excluded), permitting us to enjoy a fine-dining splurge in this handsome restaurant. The bill for two after the discount, including two apéritifs, two glasses of wine, one bottle of sparkling water, and two three-course à la carte meals, came to 112.10€.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
November Events in Paris
Paris in November just may be the most romantic time of the year. The foliage is turning various shades of red and orange, and what doesn’t still cling to tree branches carpets the city’s sidewalks and jardins. The chill in the air is the perfect justification to order up a cup of vin chaud. Festive holiday lights along the Champs Élysée and the various rues and avenues of the city make the early arrival of darkness worth welcoming. And the creative holiday windows of the shops and grands magasins become crowd-pleasing events. (more…)
Shopping in Paris: The Grands Magasins
By Sophie Delon
Those who love to shop love to shop in Paris. There are people who even plan their trips to the French capital around shopping. And while there’s no such thing as too many shops, Paris can overwhelm those who arrive without a strategy in place. There are boutiques dedicated to every whim scattered throughout the 20 arrondissements of the city, not to mention markets, malls and the grands magasins. (more…)
Paris Dining Etiquette: Be Their Guest
Story by Kalin Beck
I have always tried to be a good guest. Consideration was one of the virtues instilled in me by my parents from childhood. At home in the U.S., I’ve long since nailed the rules of etiquette when invited into a person’s home. Arrive promptly. Always bring a bottle of wine. No elbows on the table. Offer to help clear the table and do the dishes. (more…)
Hacienda del Sol
157, boulevard du Montparnasse
75006 Paris
Phone: 01.43.26.26.53
Metro Station: Port-Royal (RER B)
Type of cuisine: Mexican
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Sat 7:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
As befits its name, entering into Hacienda del Sol is like entering into a colorful Mexican ranch house. Large, terracotta tiles make up the floor, and royal blue, strawberry red, and goldenrod walls impart a comfortable, yet spirited ambiance. The bar at the back of the dining room is clad in glazed, polychrome tiles depicting small animals, flowers, cacti, and the face of the sun. The dining tables are the color of dark wood, and their cushioned chairs repeat the color of goldenrod. In sum, this is a place where one’s anticipation for a good Mexican meal is raised to the highest level.
We were not to be disappointed! As an apéritif, we each ordered a Margarita, made with El Amo tequila, squeezed lime juice, and Cointreau. It was a generous portion served with crushed ice in a large, wide glass whose brim had been dusted with salt flecked with cracked, dried red pepper.
The waiter brought corn chips and two salsas, one of which was extremely hot, as an amuse bouche. The chips were fresh and crunchy, and the fiery-hot salsa a taste experience that the faint of heart should only try once.
For the starter, I ordered Guacamole, served with corn chips. The dish, consisting of crushed avocado, coriander, onions, and tomato, was moist, fresh, and delicious. Two small slices of feta cheese were served on the side.
My partner opted for Quesadilla and received two soft corn tortillas. The first contained melted cheese flavored with cuitlacoche, a fungus which grows naturally on ears of corn. Called corn smut in the United States, the earthy and somewhat smoky fungus is used to flavor quesadillas and other dishes in Mexico. The second quesadilla contained pulverized zucchini flowers in a green tomatillo sauce. She declared both delectable, and commented that they were nothing like the TexMex quesadillas that she had grown up with in Houston, Texas.
The menu offered a wide number of possibilities for the main course. I selected Pescade à la Veracruzana. The waiter served a plate containing a large slice of panga, a buttery-soft and tender white fish resting on a bed of cooked, sliced tomatoes, onions, olives, and capers. The taste of the vegetables resembled the taste of ratatouille without the egg plant. It was a moist and savory dish!
My partner chose Cochinita Pibil, a traditional Mexican slow-roasted pork dish made from shredded pork marinated in orange and annatto. It was served with a generous portion of flour tortillas. The disk-shaped mound of what resembled pulled pork had a flavor that was refined beyond what my partner had dreamed of. She devoured every bite!
As side dishes, we shared Calabacitas con crema (corn and diced zucchini in a light cream) and Frijoles refritos de fiesta (refried beans flavored with bacon).
To accompany our meals, I ordered a bottle of Dos Equis Ambar, a refreshing, medium-bodied, malted lager. Beer-tasting notes on the Internet give this beverage an average rating, but I found it quite satisfying. My partner selected a Mexican Cabernet from Baja, a light and slightly sweet red wine that bore no resemblance to its northern cousins in Napa and Sonoma.
When the dessert menu came by, I saw my chance to try a Mexican cheese cake, the Pie de queso al limon. A square portion served on what seemed to be a graham-cracker crust, topped with pomegranate seeds, the tasty cake was dense, smooth, moist, and rich.
My partner requested three scoops of Copa de nieves del sol, a strange name for frozen desserts. She received a scoop each of hibiscus sorbet, a lime sorbet, and condensed-milk ice cream. While she appreciated the sorbets, she found the ice cream a bit too heavily flavored with vanilla.
The bill for two, including two Margaritas, two three-course meals, one glass of wine, one beer, and a single espresso, came to 104.80€. To this wonderful dining experience, we raise our glasses high and cry ole!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Les Nuits Capitales: A Week of Live Music in Paris
Interview edited by Sophie Delon
This fall, Paris nightlife will once again be the focus of Les Nuits Capitales. This week-long celebration of Paris’ clubs and live music scene invites Parisians and visitors alike to discover – or for some, rediscover – the vibrant after dark culture of the French capital. More than 60 venues around the city are participating, with concerts, musical cruises and other special events. (more…)
Le 13
13, rue Saint-Hippolyte
75013 Paris
Phone: 01.43.36.34.41
Metro Station: Les Gobelins (Line 7)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri Noon – 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m. Sat 7:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express
Fans of off-the-beaten-path restaurants will enjoy dining at Le 13, located in a triangle bounded by boulevard de Port Royal, boulevard Arago, and rue de la Santé in Paris’ 13th arrondissement.
The restaurant has wide, tall windows, a grey façade, and its name “le 13” written in yellow script above the menu board. Inside, grey tones, dark, wooden tables and chairs, the copper countertop of the bar, and the black ceiling impart a relaxed, modern atmosphere.
We dined there on a recent Saturday evening. Although she was the only person on duty in the dining room, the waitress scurried about, waiting tables and delivering the orders with admirable efficiency.
I forewent an apéritif and starter, but my partner decided to order a Kir à la pêche, which she found quite sweet with a strong crème de pêche flavor. Her starter was a Mi-cuit de foie gras maison sur croustillant de poire aux épices. This consisted of the restaurant’s own preparation of foie gras served with sliced pear encased in brick pastry. A wedge of sun-dried tomato, four walnut halves, and a generous swirl of balsamic vinegar garnished the plate. My partner declared that this was quite a satisfying beginning for the meal.
My selection for the main course was Fondant de bœuf braisé au Madiran. The stewed beef was served in a copper casserole in rich, dark gravy with two half-potatoes, snow peas, and sliced carrots. The braised beef was truly fondant, in that it was fork tender, almost melting in the mouth. It was a hearty, delicious meal that was appropriate for the cool summer weather that we were experiencing.
For the wine accompaniment, I ordered a glass of Bordeaux 2006 – Domaine de la Colombine. It was somewhat tannic and exuded notes of berry and a hint of chocolate.
My partner ordered Fricasse de poulet fermier Vallée d’Auge. Served in a casserole, generous slices of breast of chicken floated in a light cream sauce with several half-potatoes and a few sliced carrots. The chicken was firm and tender and the sauce was of perfect consistency. My partner’s only regret regarding this dish was the lack of a wider variety of vegetables served with it.
For her wine accompaniment, my partner ordered a glass of Côte du Rhône – Amour de Fruits – 2006 – Domain de la Fourmente. It was served chilled, a point that my partner raised with the waitress. She told us that all wine is placed in the refrigerator after the bottle has been opened. Unfortunately, the wine did not come to room temperature quickly enough to reveal its true character prior to my partner finishing her dish.
Sliced baguette was served alongside in a basket. We noted that the crust was pale and soft, not brown and crunchy, and that the crumb did not contain many alveoli. The waitress told us that they normally get their bread from Boulangerie Moisan, a highly-regarded bakery in the neighborhood, but that it was closed that Saturday. Hence, they purchased the bread from another shop.
We each ordered the same dessert: three scoops of Caramel beurre salé by Monsieur Gautier, Maître glacier. We were surprised to receive a bowl containing three scoops of caramel ice cream topped by three dollops of whipped cream, swirls of caramel syrup, and a Biscuit rose de Reims (a pink cookie). This sundae surprise was a delight to eat, but I was somewhat disappointed that the caramel ice cream was not as salty as its beurre salé designation would imply.
While we dined, Radio Nostalgie played softly over the speaker system, broadcasting disco, rock, and soul music, including the Pointer Sisters, Diana Ross, Rod Stewart, the Bee Gees, KC and the Sunshine Band, and James Brown.
The bill for two persons, including one Kir, two glasses of wine, one starter, two mains, and two desserts, came to 61€.
This is a pleasant restaurant at which to dine, and apart from the peccadilloes mentioned above, we enjoyed the meal.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
October Events in Paris: Salon du Chocolat (& more)
By Sophie Delon
The world’s largest chocolate show is back in Paris this month, turning the French capital into a mecca for those people with a passion for all things chocolate. And they have lots of reasons to get excited, with more than 200 chocolate makers and pastry chefs on hand to tantalize and tempt with their creations. This year’s theme is centered around pastry making, with plenty of temptations to enjoy and sample. (more…)
