Dog Trots Globe (to Paris). Or Not.
I started writing this post over the weekend, after reading Sherry Long’s Dog Trots Globe To Paris & Provence, a story about Sherry’s trip to Paris and Provence with her husband and dog. In fact, the whole book is written from the point of view of Chula, the Long’s 9-year old Sheltie.
I never finished writing this post over the weekend because Ella, my 9-year old Yorkie, got sick. Again. (At Christmas, she was hit with hemorrhagic gastroenteritis, which is as horrid and bloody as it sounds.) So I spent the last few days at the vet, or nursing my suddenly and uncharacteristically needy pup.
I believe the literary gods call that “irony.”
Ms. Ella is the kind of dog you would expect to be a canine jetsetter. She would, in theory, fit under the seat of any aircraft, and is the perfect (if not trendy) fashion accessory.
If only.
I can’t even begin to picture Ella on an airplane, crammed under the seat and whimpering the whole nine hours to Paris (and more than ten back to Miami). She wants to be a part of the action too much. Given her delicate digestive system, I’m not sure what gastrointestinal disaster would result from the trauma of the trip. And I’m not sure there is enough Xanax/Valium out there to keep both her and me calm for that sort of voyage.
That said, were Ella to be a traveling kind of canine, Paris—indeed all of France—would offer her the kind of welcome reserved for foreign dignitaries and royalty. Or as Chula the Sheltie said in Dog Trots Globe, “The French have the right respect for dogs…” You’re far more likely to see a dog sitting at a table inside a restaurant than you are a child.
Chula’s adventures were drool-worthy, for dog or human. She spent days wandering the streets of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, and exploring the villages of Provence. She (and her biped companions) discovered the dog-friendly spots in Paris, and the few spots—museums, and gardens—that said interdit to les chiens.
But Chula did get to go to a vernissage at an art gallery on the Île Saint-Louis, for American expat photographer Meredith Mullins, and ride a carrousel at the base of the Eiffel Tower. Lucky dog!
The only way Ella will ever make it to Paris is aboard a private jet, so if anyone out there would like to loan me one, we’re ready to go. In the meantime, Miami is, in many ways, similar to Paris in its attitudes toward dogs. While you’ll never see one inside a restaurant, you’ll find the dog to human ratio at many outdoor tables practically 2:1. Dogs are more likely to get a bowl of water delivered to them before waiters even take drink orders for the rest of the table.
Ella has been to Nordstrom on more than a few occasions…she even received a lovely note from one of our salesgirls. I wonder if that would happen at Bon Marché.
Should anyone come through with that private jet (hint, hint), Sherry Long offers all the tips I’d need to get through the bureaucracy of bringing Ella into France.
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Want to win a copy of Dog Trots Globe? I’m giving away one copy of this fun book to a random reader. All you need to do is leave a comment below, and I’ll select one winner on Sunday (January 20th). Enter your comment below.
Hidden in Plain Sight: Rue de Lévis in the 17th
By Linda Donahue
A few years ago, when I began to venture deeper into the “real Paris,” I decided to stay in one of the vacation apartments offered by Gail Boisclair of Perfectly Paris. Located on the Rue des Lévis in the 17th arrondissement, it was as far off the tourist track as I had ever ventured.
It was love at first sight.
There are many market streets in Paris—rue Mouffetard, rue Montorgueil, and rue Cler come immediately to mind—but most tourists (and many Parisians) have little experience with rue des Lévis. Located right off the Villiers metro (lines #2 and #3), rue des Lévis has it all: fromageries, boulangeries, patissieries, chocolatiers, wine shops, butchers, cafés, brasseries, supermarkets (Monoprix) and tea shops. The produce vendors (there are three) sell fruits and vegetables that look as if they were just plucked from the soil or the tree.
Arnaud Delmontel has one of his three boulangerie/patisseries on the rue des Lévis and, after much taste testing over the years, I’ve concluded that his macarons are among my favorite in Paris. His breads are equally mouthwatering, even winning the Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris in 2007.
The pedestrian-only portion of rue de Lévis (cars are permitted only for residents and vendors) is also home to non-food shops. There’s a bookstore, jewelers, housewares, florists, fabrics, shoes, perfumeries, and the foodless version of Monoprix. Further down the rue, there are quite a few boutiques catering to children, a Benetton and a few women’s clothing shops.
I have, in the past, claimed my favorite time of the year in Paris to be in November, and living on rue de Lévis around the American Thanksgiving holidays feeds a very specific food ritual that blooms only then. In the evening, after stepping off the metro, I’ll stop at Arnaud Delmontel for my baguette. If I’m in a particularly chocolately mood, I’ll walk down the rue to yet another patissierie for a chocolate éclair. I’ll grab a half dozen clementines at the corner produce market and, if I’m dining in, pick up the Cuisse de Canard Confite from Picard. A delicious evening awaits at home!
Although it’s located in one of the outer arrondissments, life in this part of the 17th feels centrally located. A ten-minute stroll up Rue Legendre takes me to the Square des Batignolles and the charming streets of that neighborhood. After a ten-minute walk in the other direction down Rue Legendre, I’ll find myself at Parc Monceau (my favorite parc in Paris).
The #3 metro line takes me directly to my beloved NoMa (the North Marais) via the Arts et Métiers metro stop, and to Opéra, from where I make a beeline to Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. I can transfer to the #12 line (to hit Bon Marché), the #4 line (bonjour St. Germain and the Luxembourg quartier) or the #8 line (and visit the 7th arrondissement). The #2 line takes me directly to Pigalle and Montmartre, and to Pere Lachaise, or to the #1 line that runs through the center of Paris (from the Arch de Triomphe down to Bastille).
A duck in the Square des Batignolles
Of course, meeting friends (including Gail, Thierry and John) at neighborhood restaurants makes me feel like a local (one of the waiters at Dome knows to bring me my coupe de Champagne right away). And acting like a local is truly the best way to experience Paris.
All photos © 2012 by Linda Donahue. All rights reserved. Photos may not be used in any medium without the expressed written permission of the photographer. Photos may be purchased at The Fine Print [Studio].
Change is Good
by Linda Donahue
You may have noticed that I’ve been away for a while. Please also note that I said “I” rather than “we.”
In the four years since I launched ParisienSalon.com, I positioned the site as an online magazine, not a blog. I also frequently referred to “we” when talking about the site, as if I had a whole staff helping behind the scenes.
I’ve already admitted that ParisienSalon is just me, Linda Donahue. I’ve had contributors and contractors to help me build the site, but the only person posting, marketing, chatting, editing, etc., has been moi.
When I took a break from ParisienSalon.com, back in the spring, it was to recharge my batteries. It took a lot longer to recharge than I thought it would. A large part of that was because I didn’t know what I wanted ParisienSalon.com to be anymore. When I birthed the site, I was adamant that it be something possessing journalistic qualities and refused to call it a blog. I wanted it to be objective and neutral. Clearly it worked, because the site garnered a wonderful, loyal audience.
But it stopped working for me. Somewhere along the line, ParisienSalon.com became more of an obligation and less of a passion. That’s when I had to take a step back.
Over the last few months, I’ve thought quite a bit about what I wanted the site to become. It looked good, but it was missing something. I finally realized what that missing something was: my voice. So, that was the first step in re-imagining what ParisienSalon.com could be.
I also started to think about what would keep me interested in the site…not as a writer or editor, but as a reader. I travel frequently to Paris, but do I want to read about Paris all the time? No, I don’t. But I, as a reader, would be interested in learning how to bring a little bit of Paris into my life back in the U.S. And that was my ah-ha moment.
ParisienSalon.com is no longer just about the city of Paris. It’s about living the Parisian life. I know that’s what I intended back when I launched the site, but I seem to have forgotten it as I tried to make a name for the site.
So, I’m back. ParisienSalon.com is back. And I’m back in Paris, meeting up with people who know what it means to live a Parisian life. My plan is to introduce them to you over the next year and let them offer their expertise. People like John Agee, a jewelry designer/boutique owner on rue Jacob, or Cécile Hasroyen, a brilliant stylist and personal shopper. I’ll have experts on cooking and entertaining—Diane Anthonissen, for instance—and wine. I plan to introduce you to artists, photographers, interior designers, romance experts and more, all with the intention of bringing Paris into your everyday lives and homes. This is my salon, and I will bring you the best and most brilliant Parisians (natural or adopted), a la Gertrude Stein. Of course, I’ll still share some of the things you can only see or do in Paris, but from a more personal perspective.
I hope you’ll stick around for this and like what I have planned for ParisienSalon.com. The look of the site won’t change, but some of the organization of it will. And you’ll still be able to create your own little suitcase of interesting features to reference later.
Let me know what you think in the comments below, and if you have any suggestions on how to bring you more of what you want from ParisienSalon.com.
A bientôt!
My Paris Favorites: David Lebovitz
Introduction by Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
I have never been what one would typically consider a foodie. My palate is far too finicky for this, geared more toward the enjoyment of simple food rather than complicated cuisine. And while I’ll admit to picking up the occasional issue of Gourmet or Bon Appetite in the past, it was only to salivate over the photographs that, despite my selective tastebuds, always looked so darned delicious to me. (more…)
Stuff Parisians Like: Baguettes Tradition
By Olivier Magny, Ô Chateau Correspondent
Inarguably, Paris has the best bread in the world. And for sure the best baguettes. (more…)
Le Pavillon du Lac
Parc des Buttes Chaumont
75019 Paris
Phone: 01.42.00.07.21
Metro Station: Laumière (Line 5)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon and Tues noon – 3:00 p.m. Thurs to Sat noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sun noon – 3:15 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
Joggers, parents with their children, and people just going for a stroll love the Parc des Buttes Chaumont on Sunday—even on a cold Sunday. This is what we recently discovered when we showed up at the park’s Pavillon du Lac for lunch. I do not remember ever having seen so many active people in a park on a cold (yet sunny) day in Paris.
The Pavillon du Lac stands inside the park and to the right of the entry gate (as one enters the park) at place Armand Carrel. The handsome building was constructed in 1867 for use as a bistrot. It has recently been totally renovated and has been open for business since June 2010.
We were greeted warmly by the responsible de salle, who showed us to our table next to the window. From there we could observe the busy comings and goings of people running by or walking on the pathway in front of the building. Shortly after we were seated the restaurant filled with diners who came for the Sunday brunch. Many were families with young children.
We began with an apéritif, a glass of Henriot champagne, which we found to be quite dry with notes of green apple.
For the starter, I requested Saumon mariné maison, espuma de Wasabi and was presented with a rectangular plate displaying two slices of salmon and a goblet containing wasabi foam. The salmon was succulent and chewy and I dipped morsels of the fish into the foam. The spicy-hot wasabi (also known as Japanese horseradish) gave sharp contrast to the mild, tender salmon. I’m not too sure that the subtle flavor of salmon should be covered up with such a spicy preparation, but I enjoyed the dish nevertheless.
My partner ordered Velouté de courge musquée, chips de patate douce vitelottes. This was a nice presentation of pumpkin soup in a deep, oval-shaped bowl with chips of Vitelotte sweet potatoes floating on top. The soup was dense without being creamy and only needed a sprinkling of salt to bring out its flavor. Three crisped slices of warm, country baguette were served alongside.
After the waiter informed us that our first choice for the main course—wild deer in whisky sauce—was no longer available, we opted for the Magret de canard du sud-ouest sauce soja, écrasé de topinambour, choux Romanesco. We were treated with another beautiful presentation: a slice of breast of duck cut longitudinally resting on a swath of sweetened soy sauce next to a square mound of crushed Jerusalem artichoke. The duck breast had been pan seared and cooked rare and was tender and moist. The Jerusalem artichokes were savory and buttery.
For the wine accompaniment we each ordered a glass of Domaine du Coriancon 2010, a Côte du Rhône. With a deep, red-purple robe it was medium bodied and slightly tannic and had a note of licorice. However, it did not accompany the duck as well as we had hoped because of the sweetness of the soy sauce.
Thick-sliced, alveoli-riddled, fresh baguette was served alongside in a basket.
Dessert brought more of the chef’s masterful presentations to our table. My Poire pochée au vin rouge, sphère de chocolat, chantilly maison was a fluff of white whipped cream next to a dark-purple pear that had been poached in red wine. A finger of crispy puff-pastry and a dash of chocolate powder garnished the dish. The presentation of my partner’s Vacherin praliné, marron glacé, émulsion lait de coco was no less interesting. The waiter brought a squat canning jar containing a layer of milk chocolate crème topped with crumble and a scoop of chestnut ice cream. Two vanilla meringues protruded from the jar and a pitcher of frothy coconut milk was served alongside. The idea was to pour the coconut milk over the milk-chocolate-crumble-chestnut-ice-cream vacherin, dig in with a spoon, and enjoy—which she did!
The service was friendly and helpful and the restaurant, full of small kids, was rather noisy. In the end however, we enjoyed the meal and the experience of lunch in the handsome pavilion of this beautiful park.
The bill for two, including two glasses of champagne, two three-course menus, and two glasses of wine came to 103€.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Paris Escapes: Château de Vincennes & Parc Floral
Story and photos by Caitlin Rodgers
City life sometimes pushes you to get out and away from its hectic central pump; Parisian city life is no exception. Likewise, living in the city center and riding the city’s metro system on a regular basis can often make one wonder about what exactly lies at the end of each numbered line. Personally speaking, Line 1’s final Château de Vincennes stop has always dominated my metro riding daydreams. After all, it’s tempting to imagine a castle within a city girl’s reach. And one spring day as I finally ventured out to chase Line One, metro stop Château de Vincennes turned out to be a Parisian pot of gold waiting at its end. (more…)
Day Trips from Paris: Chantilly
Story by Caitlin Rodgers
Versailles attracts tourists like excited moths to a gilded flame and the Loire Valley, though completely enchanting, is a several hours drive from Paris. The Chantilly Château though, a 25 minute train ride from Paris, is equal parts accessible, uncrowded, and old-world folklore, making it a resplendent romp into France’s history of nobles, wars, and new republics. A place visited by mythic characters from French kings to Bond, James Bond, Chantilly Castle is a sharp snapshot of French history in a single take. (more…)
View to a Thrill: Five Spots to Behold Paris
Story and photos by Caitlin Rodgers
Thanks to swift transportation and uniform Haussmann design, it’s rather easy to forget the true size of the French capital. These five vantage points, though not a complete list, are perfect ways to see the city in its full size and glory. (more…)
Paris Spotlight: Mouffetard’s Village Charms
Story edited by Sophie Delon
Paris’ 5th arrondissement, otherwise known as the Latin Quartier, is rich with charm and history. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Mouffetard district. Saunter down the gentle slope of the montagne Saint-Geneviève to the Église Saint-Médard, passing the pretty Place de la Contrescarpe, and you’ll find yourself amidst perfectly picturesque surroundings with a charmingly tranquil atmosphere. Old houses, narrow alleyways, small courtyards, old signs, and babbling fountains all evoke the timeless history of this area, bustling with food shops and friendly bistros. (more…)
16 Haussmann
16, boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris
Phone: 01.48.00.06.38
Metro Station: Chaussée d’Antin La Fayette (Line 7), Richelieu-Drouout (Line 9)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Sat 12:30 p.m.- 2:30 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express
A part of the Radisson Blu Ambassador Hotel in the 9th arrondissement, the restaurant 16 Haussmann is an ideal place for travelers who can afford the splurge to enjoy fine dining in elegant surroundings.
Tall ceilings; pewter-colored walls, benches, and chairs; heavy grey curtains; and tall, sparkling-clean windows create an atmosphere of breathtaking sophistication. It was a pleasure to sit down and relax in stylish comfort. While we dined, pop music and rhythm and blues played over the speaker system.
We forewent an apéritif, ordering a bottle of San Pellegrino sparkling water instead. While we were studying the menu, the waitress brought over an hors-d’œuvre consisting of purée of chick pea flavored with basal. We spread the purée on dried slices of baguette and enjoyed.
The restaurant offers a three-course menu for 50€. Supplements apply to some dishes.
For the starter, I ordered Ravioles de langoustines, velouté de crustacés au basilic. The waitress brought a wide, shallow bowl containing a frothy, peppery, orange-colored, crustacean-flavored broth upon which floated crisped basil leaves. Resting at the bottom of the bowl was a layer of flat ravioli stuffed with langoustine. The creamy broth and langoustine ravioli were neither too rich or too fishy. In other words, the dish was perfect!
For her part, my partner also selected a velouté: Velouté fin de potiron en capuccino, petits croûtons dorés. This preparation was thick and colorful – the server poured the pumpkin soup around three plump croutons made from breaded Comté cheese topped with thinly sliced basil. While the soup was fine, it was the croutons that “made” this dish. My partner declared that they were one of the most unusual taste sensations that she has ever experienced in a French restaurant.
The menu offered a choice of nine different main courses. I opted for Noix de Saint Jacques poêlées, écume d’orange et fondu d’endives. As before, the food arrived in a bowl, but a smaller one this time. It contained five tender, succulent, lightly-fried scallops swimming in a frothy orange-flavored broth, all resting on a bed of shredded, cooked endive. I very much enjoyed the delicious scallops, but did not quite care for the broth. To my taste, the flavor of orange does not go well with scallops. Nevertheless, I finished the dish entirely and felt quite satisfied.
My partner chose Suprême de volaille rôti, lait de coco et croustille d’abricot. Plump, moist slices of chicken breast rested in a very lightly-flavored, frothy coconut milk and a bed of sliced carrots and parsnips. The croustille d’abricot consisted of a roll of apricot paste wrapped in an ultra-thin layer of brick pastry and served on the broad rim of the bowl. My partner had hoped for a more pronounced coconut flavor in this dish, but she found it thoroughly satisfying none the less.
To accompany our meal we ordered a half-bottle of Pouilly Fumé Laporte — Domaine Les Duchesses — 2010, a dry, brilliant yellow wine with a rapidly-changing bouquet of aromas ranging flowers and apricot to spices. We were quite pleased with this choice.
Warm rolls were served alongside on bread dishes.
Dessert brought some nice surprises. I ordered the suggestion du pâtissier, a Tarte fine au chocolat, crème pistache, granité de litchi. The tart was made from bittersweet-chocolate shortcrust filled with pistachio cream and topped with bits of crushed pistachio dipped in chocolate. A goblet of lychee sorbet was served alongside. It was a delicious dish that was not too filling.
My partner decided on the Poire fondante au vin, cannelle, sorbet pain d’épice. The red-tinted pear sat in a shallow bowl of thin, wine-based syrup, while the spice-bread sorbet was served on a separate dish alongside. This dessert was light and refreshing, and my partner observed that it would be a good selection for spring or summer.
The service was attentive and friendly.
The bill for two, including one bottle of mineral water, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, and a half-bottle of wine, came to 149.10€.
We think that travelers whose budget can support this splurge will enjoy dining at this fine restaurant.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
A Day in the Jardin des Plantes
Story by Sophie Delon
In 1635, King Louis XIII’s personal physical created a medicinal herb garden known as the Jardin du Rois. Five years later, it opened to the public and, in 1663, it was transformed into a sprawling complex dedicated to nature. (more…)
Luc Dubanchet: On the Paris Food Scene
Interview conducted and provided by the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau
In an interview with the Paris Convention and Visitors Center, Luc Dubanchet, president of Omnivore, shares his views on the Parisian gastronomic scene and reveals some of his favorite restaurants. He also tells us about the upcoming publication of the Omnivore Guide, as well as the World Tour Food Festival, taking place in Paris for the first time in March of this year. (more…)
March Events in Paris
By Sophie Delon
March is roaring into Paris like a lion: full of fierce happenings throughout the month, including Paris Fashion Week. There seems to be something for everyone, from fashionistas to antique shoppers to art lovers and music aficianados. (more…)
My Paris Favorites: Eric Fraudeau of Cook’n With Class
Introduction by Linda Donahue
Eric Fraudeau should be Paris’ ambassador to the world. Not only does he immediately dispel any notion that the French are standoffish, but he also has a passion for the French capital that is quite contagious. He also has an encyclopedic knowledge of French cuisine, which shouldn’t come as any surprise given his 20 years of experience as a chef in the restaurant and hotel industry. Eric has worked around the world — Canada, Mexico, the U.S., and France — rubbing aprons with the likes of Robuchon and Ducasse.
After realizing he wanted to share his love for creating savory cuisine, Eric opened up Cook’n With Class, an authentic French cooking school located in the heart of a real Paris neighborhood. The gleaming, beautifully-designed facility in Montmartre offers state-of-the-art teaching kitchens, where students from around the world learn how to create everything from breads to sweets to full-course meals. I had the pleasure of taking one such class, and all I can say is that it was one of the most delicious experiences of my life.
Eric has taken the time to share some of his favorite places in and around Paris … but, fair warning: some may make your mouth water.
Paris Neighborhood
I really like the 12th when you are close to the 11th. You know, Aligre, Trousseau, Ledru Rollin, Paul Bert… I love the feeling when I walk in the streets of this area. It is like a village. Everybody knows each other, and it is a family oriented neighborhood, with the ‘’promenade verte’’ and a few nice little parks. Lots of the good, new trendy restaurants are in this area, Rino for instance. Even if it is becoming very BOBO, it is, still, in many ways a popular area. But I leave and work in Montmartre, and I love every part of that, too.
La Table d'Eugene.
La Table d’Eugene (rue Eugene Sue in the 18th, Metro Jules Joffrin). The restaurant is small and the kitchen ridiculously small. He deserves an award just to be able to get such awesome food out of that kitchen. The food is good, not pricey. What I like is that the Chef creates modern cuisine with a traditional twist. The seasonal menu changes all the time and is always made with the freshest ingredients. It’s a great price value for the food. This is a restaurant that deserves one Michelin star for the food but, because they choose such a small place and to have no tablecloth, the red book keeps ignoring them.
Restaurant (Ethnic)
Azabu on rue Mazet, Paris 6th. I have never been to Japan, but I love Japanese food. I learned in the US how to understand and enjoy Japanese food at places like Morimoto in Philadelphia and Nobu in New York. In Paris, good Japanese food is rare. Azabu has a very French approach to Japanese food, but the result is great. The food is expensive, and it has to be. You just cannot make great Japanese food with average quality ingredients. You need to reserve, and try to be on the ground floor facing the grill to enjoy watching the Chef playing with your food.
Cheap Eats
La Pizza De Loretta in the 9th. I love the pizza by the weight, it’s very tasty. It feels like Rome. A little bit pricey for pizza, but worth it. They also have a short but good Italian wine selection.
Food/Gourmet Shop
La Grande Epicerie at Bon Marche. There’s nothing original there, but the place is great. Lots of food from everywhere in the world. Lots of different pasta shapes and candies. I go there sometimes just to get some inspiration… they have more than 30 kinds of salt! If it was less expensive, I would buy all my food there.
Department Store
I am not sure I have one. After a few minutes in a department store, I start to yawn like crazy.
Chocolate Shop
Without hesitation, Pierre Marcolini , Rue de Seine Paris 6th. He is the best chocolatier in Paris. The quality is consistent and the flavors are the flavors I like. He uses very dark chocolate and makes small bites. The one I prefer is with the Yuzu filling, even if he is very famous for truffles, I prefer the chocolate with filling. I always like Belgium chocolate more than Swiss chocolate; I believe it is less sweet and maybe the flavor stays in the mouth longer.
Specialty Boutique
I am a cheese addict, I go for cheese almost every day. My favorite cheese shop is Marie Quatre-Hommes they have a store in the 18e, on the rue du Poteau. I’ve built a very good relationship with all the vendors, so I get all the tips about cheeses and they ask me to taste the new arrivals.
Boutique (women’s or men’s)
I am not really a shopper. When I need clothes I go to Printemps. They have it all: cheap, expensive, trendy, boring. If I can’t find what I’m looking for, I cross the street and try Galeries Lafayette. I usually end up buying some stuff at Zara. I like the style or the ‘’no style’’ they offer.
Photo from Mama Shelter
Place for Cocktails
Probably Mama Shelter. I like the mojitos and Martini list they have. They also always have a DJ or some live music, and it is a fun atmosphere. Lots of trendy people around. The last time I went was for brunch, and Vincent Cassel was there. A few months before, again for brunch, Alain Ducasse was there.
Music Spot
Les Trois mailletz, rue Gallande Paris 5th. I discovered this place a long time ago. It’s a cabaret, filled up with lost tourists and some habitués, but everybody is here to have fun. The Piano bar is on the ground floor, but the place to be is underground. It’s a show that you become part of, if you like dancing. The live music is happening in the back of the room and the dancers, singers, entertainers move, dance , and walk on the tables. Keep your glass in your hands and enjoy. I can spend hours there before I realize it’s 5 am…
Patisserie /Boulangerie
I recently discovered Café Pouchkine — I like it a lot. Conticini and Hermé make me happy, too, when I need some sugar in my blood. A great éclair au café from La Maison du Chocolat can also do the job. For bread, Le Grenier a Pain does a ‘’ pain de trois’’ that I think is very, very good. Au Pain d’Antan on rue Ramey in the 18th does also a great job — their pain au Noix for the cheese is to die for.
Quiet Spot
Parc Monceau is quiet enough to read a book and to have a picnic, if the weather permits it. I will also go to the Café Garden at the Petit Palais for a quiet tea in the afternoon.
Paris Indulgence
I am currently studying Histoire de l’art at l’Ecole du Louvre. I try to see every expo that comes to Paris, but just walking through a museum makes my day. Obviously, Paris is full of cultural experiences of all kinds.
Day Trip from Paris
Lets go to Versailles! The food market is really nice, probably the best one in and around Paris. After the market visit, stop for lunch at Zin’s (125 rue Yves Le Coz F – 78000 Versailles), and then go for a walk in the park. I also like to go to Provins, a small medieval village full of antique boutiques and small cafés.
Au Train de Vie: A Paris Brasserie Goes Off the Track
Story by Caitlin Rodgers
Above planes and automobiles, trains are the way to travel through Europe. Paris knows this to be true with its multitude of gares stationed throughout the city. But even if you come to Paris with plans to stay put (and who can blame you?), there’s a place in the 10th arrondisement that offers the thrill of travel without moving you a mile. Above the humming engines and frenzied energy of the Gare de l’Est sits Au Train de Vie, a brasserie where, beyond classic menu conventions (an array of salads, steaks, frites, wine, and coffee), tradition is left at the curb. (more…)
Paris, My Sweet
Story by Linda Donahue
Amy Thomas is a lot smarter than I am. A lot. Whereas we both have a love of all things sweet that crosses way over the border of obsession, she’s parlayed this indulgence into a blog and, now, a book. I, on the other hand, simply hoard my confections and ravage them without a word to anyone. Then again, if I thought for a moment that I could use my endless purchases of macarons, éclairs, and even cupcakes as a professional tax write-off, I’d probably have a much bigger problem with my waistline. (more…)
Musée Marmottan-Monet: A Marvelous Secret in the 16th
Story by Caitlin Rodgers
Often not found on visitors’ to-do lists is the far west side of Paris’ 16th arrondisement. Home to Bois de Boulogne, a 2,000 acre expanse of wood, water, and sky, the area is also home to one of the city’s lesser known artistic jewels: Musée Marmottan- Monet. (more…)
Celebrating Valentine’s Day With a Paris Twist
By Sophie Delon
In Paris, Valentine’s Day seems almost like a redundancy, given that the city celebrates romance every single day. But Parisians do mark the holiday much the way those in the U.S. do: with flowers, small gifts, and words of affection. Of course, when presented during a stroll along the Seine, or while dining in a Michelin-starred restaurant with views over the French capital, such trinkets take on even more significance. (more…)
My Paris Favorites: Terrance Gelenter
Introduction by Linda Donahue
I had, like most of the Paris expat community, known of Terrance Gelenter long before I actually met him, on a beautiful spring day at a (now defunct) café in St. Germain. It was a chance meeting. I was having lunch with my dear friend John, and Terrance was sitting a table by himself. Because he and John were friendly (bien sûr), we sat down at the table next to his, and spent the next hour or so chatting away. Terrance was holding court, for both us and the café staff who knew him well. (more…)
Le Télégraphe
41, rue de Lille
75007 Paris
Phone: 01.58.62.10.08
Metro Station: Rue du Bac (Line 12)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues to Sat noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – midnight Sun to Tues noon – 3:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express
On the outside, arched windows with Art Nouveau fanlights give a hint of the elegance within this building that was once the Maison des Dames des Postes, Télégraphes et.Téléphones. Step inside to view tall ceilings, slender columns, and more Art Nouveau archways. It would appear that the female workers of the former PTT dined in sumptuous surroundings! The architecture of the dining room is reminiscent of the types of stylish salons that one finds in Venice. It is a pleasure to eat in a place like this in Paris.
We were at Le Télégraphe to dine on a specially-priced, four-course menu that we had reserved through lafourchette.com, an on-line reservation service. For this meal, there was no choice to be made—after we were seated, the waiter simply announced what we would be served.
For the apéritif, the waitress brought us a kir, a refreshing, sweet beverage consisting of white wine flavored with currant liqueur.
An amuse bouche of two tiny, lightly-toasted salmon sandwiches came next. Amuse bouches are not meant to be filling—they are served to whet the appetite. These sandwiches fulfilled this role admirably—the salmon was moist and flavorsome.
Vélouté de potirmaron, a pumpkin soup served in a shallow, stylish bowl with a swirl of olive oil and light cream, was served as the first course. While mine was hot, my partner was dismayed that her soup was only warm. Nevertheless, we were both satisfied with the flavor of the savory dish. It was not heavy with cream as some véloutés are.
Declaring antipathy to seafood, my partner forewent the second course, a serving of two succulent prawns on a bed of sautéed green beans. I neglected to ask the waiter what kind of sauce the prawns were served in, but it had a slight lemon flavor that went well with the crustaceans.
The third course was a serving of a tender lamb chop (having foregone the seafood course, my partner received two), thinly cut and cooked medium-rare. They were accompanied with tender, diced, sautéed potatoes and served in delicious gravy. It was a simple, yet excellent main course.
Bread rolls similar to sour-dough bread were served alongside in a dish.
We selected a carafe of red Hubert Veneau Côteaux du Giennois 2008 to accompany the meal. When we first tasted it we detected animal notes, but these mellowed over the course of the meal.
Dessert was a serving of four sweets: a scoop of red-current sorbet, a small vanilla macaron filled with chocolate cream, a small crème brulée, and a petite gâteau tout-citron. We were pleased with these desserts except the latter, which was lacking the assertive, tart flavor of lemon that we had anticipated.
I ordered an espresso to end the meal. Along with the coffee, we were served two mignardises, each consisting of a madeleine topped with pistachio cream and a large, fresh raspberry. It was a nice finish to a mostly satisfying dinner in a beautiful restaurant.
The service was friendly and helpful.
The bill for two, including two four-course menus, a carafe of wine, and an espresso, came to 79.30€.
We think that travelers to Paris seeking to dine in elegant surroundings without having to pay upper-end prices will enjoy this restaurant. Brunch is served on Sundays from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Portrait of a Paris Artist: Thierry Breton
Story by Linda Donahue
Thierry Breton had every intention of studying veterinary medicine when he arrived in Paris in 1985. Instead, the man who was born in Senegal, and who grew up in Africa and Martinique, fell in love with clay. (more…)
La Maison Géorgienne
3, rue du Sabot
75006 Paris
Phone: 01.45.48.48.08
Metro Station: Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Saint-Sulpice (Line 4), Mabillon (Line 10)
Type of cuisine: Georgian
Days & hours of operation: Open every day from 11:00 a.m. until midnight
Credit card: American Express, Visa, MasterCard
La Maison Géorgienne is a gorgeous theme restaurant located in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés quarter. We entered here unsuspecting, and soon found ourselves dining like aristocrats!
The restaurant is spacious with four floors for dining. We were ushered to the top floor by elevator and found ourselves in a large room exuding old-world ambiance: large, cloth-covered tables—each set with a candelabrum; glass chandeliers; gilded-trim chairs with padded, beige cushions; and an inlaid wood floor. Save for the modern art on the walls, the room looked like a parlor where an old aristocrat might receive his guests.
Although the restaurant offers a number of fixed-price menus, we ordered à la carte.
For the apéritif, we each ordered a glass of Bagrationi, a Georgian sparkling wine. Priced at three euros less than French champagne, it was refreshingly dry and had a slight toasty flavor. We were so pleased with this wine that we ordered a second glass to accompany the meal.
For the starter, I selected the Stumari, a plate of finely-sliced salmon that had been marinated in tchatcha, an eau-de-vie distilled from grape pomace. Served with crushed avocado and red caviar, the moist, delicious salmon had a fresh, melt-in-the-mouth texture.
My partner selected the Soupe Tchikhirtma, a large bowl of hot soup containing bits of egg and parsley, and generous morsels of chicken breast. It was an appropriate dish for a chilly day. She was so pleased with the soup that she dared to tip her bowl to drain the last few drops into her spoon so that she could consume every bit.
For the main course, I thought that the Chakhokhbili au Lapin would be appropriate for the Bagrationi that I determined to continue drinking. The waiter produced a shallow, square bowl containing three morsels of tender rabbit that had been stewed with herbs in Georgian white wine. A molded, steaming-hot, carrot purée was served on the side. The rabbit and carrot purée were delicate, as I had anticipated. It was a dish fit for an aristocrat!
My partner’s dish, Tchakapouli d’Agneau à l’Estragon, was a stew of lamb that had been marinated in white wine and flavored with fresh tarragon. It was served in a clear broth in a glazed terra cotta bowl. A small serving of medium-grained rice with bits of yellow and red pepper was served on the side. The surprise for her was that the lamb had been prepared in white wine, not red. She found the dish to be quite flavorful, and was intrigued by the quantity of tarragon used to prepare it. The herb reminded her of the greens (mustard, collard, kale…) that she used to eat in the southern U.S.
Long loaves of warm, spongy bread topped with sesame seed were served alongside in a basket. This was a type of bread that we had never seen before—each loaf looked like a large, flattened sausage and vaguely resembled the shape of a boomerang. We had to restrain ourselves from eating too much!
Normally, I like to have a very sweet ending to my meal, but when I spotted Matsoni, a traditional Georgian yoghurt, on the menu, I thought that I would try that. A generous portion of the yoghurt was served in a yoghurt cup and topped with a spoonful of honey. The yoghurt was not consistently smooth as one finds in commercially prepared yoghurts. It was clotted and quite sour, but not unpleasantly so. Hooray for artisanal yoghurt!
My partner ordered Medogui, a four-layered torte flavored with caramelized sweet milk and praline. A layer of frosting separated each thin layer of cake, making this a delicate-looking dessert similar to the kinds that one is served at high tea in London
While we dined, we listened to a live performance by Elga Porchkhidze, who sang in Georgian, as well as in French and Italian.
The service was friendly and helpful.
The bill for two, including four glasses of sparkling wine, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, and one espresso came to 151.50€. Our lafourchette.com discount brought the price down to 90.90€.
We were pleased that our evening at this restaurant brought us into contact with the culture of Georgia, a distant country that we may never have the opportunity to visit.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
My Paris Favorites: Kasia Dietz
Introduction by Linda Donahue
Kasia Dietz has exquisite taste — evidenced in her own personal style and the fabulous bags she designs. She also has a thirst for exploration and adventure — she spent 13 months traveling through 32 countries. This, after spending 10 years in New York City as an art buyer in the ad agency biz.
But after returning from her extended voyage abroad, Kasia literally bumped into the Italian who was to become the love of her life and would, five months later, follow him to Paris. That was nearly three years ago, and in the time since, Kasia has gotten to know the French capital inside and out, delighting in new discoveries and familiar haunts alike.
And, it should be noted, Paris has fallen in love with Kasia. Her collection of bags is sold in the oh-so-prestigious Le Bon Marché … but for those who cannot make it to Paris to, they’ll find the Kasia Dietz collection online at Shop.ParisienSalon.
In the meantime, pour yourself a glass of wine or tea, sit back and let Kasia share her favorite places in the City of Lights.
Kasia in the Marais.
Paris Neighborhood
Le Marais. It’s cobbled streets, hidden courtyards and endless charm always felt like home, even before it was.
Restaurant (French)
I adore everything about Le Petit Marché. It’s exceptionally good French fare with a touch of Asian influence and just the right ambiance, steps away from Place des Vosges. (The mille feuille au thon is a must!)
Restaurant (Ethnic)
I have yet to discover a favorite ethnic eatery (where’s the Chinese takeaway in Paris?) but often find myself table hopping at Le Marché des Enfants Rouges with plenty an ethnic option including Japanese, Italian, Moroccan, Caribbean and Lebanese.
Cheap Eats
There’s a single crêpe stand at the Saint-Germain-des-Prés metro stop that I frequent when I’m craving a local taste followed by a stroll in the rive gauche. (Yes, I do cross the river on occasion.)
Food/gourmet Shop
Aside from occasional morning marketing, my weekly trips include Marché Saint-Martin, a covered market in the 10eme, filled with a wide array of fresh produce, regional wines, foreign delicacies and most importantly, many a smiling merchant.
Patisserie /Boulangerie
I have great loyalty for my little neighborhood boulangerie and always feel privileged when I happen upon a fresh, warm baguette. As for patisserie’s, I cannot easily walk past a Ladurée without tasting at least one macaron, preferably rose-flavored.
Breakfast Spot
My latest favorite breakfast or rather, brunch spot is Coutume Café. (And not merely for its breakfast burrito, in accordance with all the rave reviews the coffee is one of the best in Paris!)
Chocolate Shop
I recently discovered a little gem called Meert in the Marais. It’s a quaint 18th century chocolatier which truly feels like stepping into ‘old Paris’, filled with divine handmade chocolates and various other confections. And, it’s close!
Department Store
I enjoy strolling through Le Bon Marché, as it’s never too crowded and has the appeal of a gallery, each carefully selected piece waiting to be admired.
A hidden garden.
Specialty Boutique
One of my secret passions is interior design with an affinity towards Danish modern. Conveniently close to home sits the Nordik Market, with a selection of Scandinavian furniture and housewares that I dream to furnish a Paris apartment with.
Boutique (Women’s or Men’s)
A boutique combining my three loves of fashion, literature and art is Ofr., located in the ‘Haute Marais’. There is always a book or two to peruse, often followed by an exhibition in the back gallery.
Place for Cocktails
Since moving to Paris I rarely indulge in cocktails, but do love a well mixed drink at neighborhood haunt Candelaria as well as La Conserverie.
Music Spot
The streets of Paris prove the most fitting spots for music to be heard, particularly on one of Paris’ most enchanting nights, La Fête de la Musique, when musicians take to the streets, and out of every hidden corner is heard song. As for a proper venue, La Cigale is a classic.
Quiet Spot
Where I most love to lose time is in Village Saint-Paul, a hidden world of inter-connected courtyards in the Marais, revealing antique shops and one particular cafe that I am very fond of as it does indeed taste like home, Comme à la Maison.
Paris Indulgence
Tea at Mariage Frères is a luxury. I feel quite like being on the set of Casablanca. (Tastings at the various chocolatiers doesn’t count, does it?)
Day Trip from Paris
For a day lost within a magical setting, Monet’s gardens at Giverny. For a day of regal hedonism, a tour of the champagne houses at Epernay. And for a proper mix of the two, the Loire Valley.
All photos provided by Kasia Dietz. You can follow Kasia’s adventures in Paris and beyond at her blog, Love in the City of Lights.
