It’s September in Paris, and Parisians are returning from les vacances. That means things are picking up in the French capital, with some of the fall’s best cultural events lining up, including the ones Richard Nahem, our Eye Prefer Paris guru, thinks are the best of the best in the City of Lights.

Carmen at Les Invalides

A breathtaking production Bizet’s Carmen is being mounted outside at
Les Invalides. VIP tickets, which include Champagne and hors d’ouevres, are available.

September 7-14 8:45PM
Les Invalides
Metro: Invalides
http://www.akouna.com/operaenpleinair/

25th Biennale des Antiquaires

It’s the 25 anniversary of the Biennale des Antiquaires, one of the truly great art & antique fairs of the world with an incomparable collection of art, antiques,objets, and jewelry. Twenty-five new, up and coming dealers will be spotlighted.

September 15-22
11AM-8PM, September 16 & 21 till 10PM
Grand Palais
Ave. Winston Churchill, 8th arr.
Metro: Champs Elysees-Clemenceau
http://www.bdafrance.eu/Home-N=78cec4db-a0c4-49e0-bdcb-af1faa348620-L=EN.aspx

Roland Petit

Master choreographer Roland Petit is having three of his best known pieces Le Rendez-vous,Le Loup, and Le Jeune Homme et la Mort,  performed at Opera Garnier. From the beginning of his career Petit sought out artists and writers to collaborate with and the pieces include text by Jean Cocteau,Jean Anouilh, and Jacques Prevert and sets by Picasso and Brassai.

September 22 -October 9
Opera Garnier, 9th arr.
Metro: Opera
http://www.operadeparis.fr/cns11/live/onp/index.php?〈=en

Paris par Hasard: From Bagels to Brioches

Terrance Gelenter writes his autobiography about being a street kid from Brooklyn who goes on to become a Paris flaneur. Join him and the ghosts of great writers of the past like Sartre and Beauvoir at Cafe Flore for wine, charcuterie, and of course, a copy of From Bagels to Brioches.

Thursday, September 9, 7:30PM
Cafe Flore
172 Blvd. St. Germain, 6th arr.
Tickets: 50 euros
Reservations: terrance@paris-expat.com

P.S. Privé

The Paris Experience Company is offering a variety of delicious events this month. Atelier Vin et Macs teaches participants how to train their palates by associating the flavors of wine with macarons prepared exclusively to match. Atelier Vin et Fromage offers  in-depth insights on pairing wine and cheese. Learn how to find the best foods at a Paris food market, and then enjoy a lunch made from the ingredients you’ve purchased at the Rue Montorgeuil Tasting Tour. And join fellow foodies at a private dinner prepared in the home of a private chef at the P.S. Privé Salon Dinner.

September 8 - Atelier Vin et Macs
September 9 - P.S. Privé Salon Dinner
September 14 & 28 - Rue Montorgeuil Tasting Tour
September 22 - Atelier Vin et Fromage
www.psprive.com

Years ago, when I discovered the Maison et Objet, I knew I’d found Mecca.

Even today, so many years later and with all the trade shows in the world, none quite compare to the thrill of heading to this collection of talent and innovation all in one place. It’s truly one of the great events in modern day Paris, staggering both in size and bewilderment of the unique treasures laid before you, new and creative and fresh each year.

A veritable wonderland of design with miles of eye candy from all over Europe, the venue is enormous and takes a minute to figure out. Your best bet is to know what you’re looking for and plot out a course.

It’s set in the Parc des Expositions and it’s a bit of a trek to get there, but well worth the trip if you’re a buyer or lover of all things for the home. And who isn’t?

Over the years its expansion has been vast and it was always held in five halls. This year it looks like they’ve added three more areas to make it eight different sections. What used to be satellite events via shuttle will now be under one roof. Okay, eight roofs!

If you’re going, you’ll want to get your pass online before the show. You’ll need to have your business credentials, so have them handy when you’re filling it out. There is a gigantic book listing all the vendors, and that’s for sale both at the show and online. I rarely get it cause it’s massive and heavy, and unless you’re looking for someone in particular, just cumbersome. That said, if you do manage to lug one home, you’ll have an encyclopedia of vendors from around the world with all of their websites and business descriptions.

Tips:

• Print out your badge at home and bring your ID and business card. It’s just good to have your passport or driver’s liscense with you at check in as they take this show super seriously and only want pros attending.
• Go around 10:00am to beat the crowded trains. Leave a little early for that same reason!
• Make sure you take the right train. You’ll be taking the RER which can be picked from the Metro in Paris. Some of the RER maps don’t have the Parc des Expositions listed on it for some reason. Just head toward the CDG airport and listen for the announcement. Be sure to keep your ticket stub for the RER both ways cause they often have police checking to make sure you paid. You can purchase tickets at Chatelet or Gare du Nord.
• You’re technically not allowed to take pics but it’s always good to have a camera since if you ask, many designers will let you shoot. If you’re caught taking shots without asking, there could be a scene and let’s just say, it’s best to avoid that. Ask and you’ll most likely receive!
• Strong Tote bag: You may pick one up at the show if someone is giving them away but it’s best to have something of your own to carry the literature and brochures from each vendor. You won’t be able to take anything out of the show until the last day. If you decide to do that, bring a rolling suitcase or one of those folding carts to keep from having to lug everything by hand.
• Good shoes. I can’t even guesstimate how many miles of aisles there are in total. 100? 1000? Either way, dress for success and make sure your shoes are ones you love to cruise around in for hours.
• Travel light. If you don’t need to bring a coat, just wear the minimum cause the less you have to carry around with you the better. Dress is casually elegant.
• Water: There is plenty of food and even though it’s technically ‘fast food’, it’s still decent sandwiches on baguettes and sort of Frenchy. If you don’t have to buy water and drinks there it will save you some cash and you won’t have to keep stopping for water and you trek all those miles.

Event Dates:

Fall: Sept. 03 - 07, 2010
Winter: Jan. 21 - 25, 2011

Website: http://www.maison-objet.com

Venue:

Parc des Expositions (aka Paris Nord Villepinte Exhibition Centre)
95970 Roissy Cedex
France

Entree: This is a really tight ship. This is from their website:

Shows are strictly reserved for professionals and Press. Professional identification (business card for international visitors) must be presented in order to obtain an entrance badge for the show. You will not be allowed to access the show without any professional I.D. Access to the show is not open to children.

Cost:56 € (for the 5 day show)

Hours:

Friday to Monday : 09:30am to 07:00pm. Tuesday: 09:30am to 06:00pm

Getting There:  From Paris, take the RER B in the direction Roissy Charles de Gaulle and  get off at “Parc des Expositions”.

Take  Chatelet or Gare du Nord (both are  RER stations) for direct routes.

Overview:

Hall 1:  Ethnic Chic

Hall 2:  Textiles (Linens, Pillows)

Hall 3:  Tablewear

Hall 4:  Hand Crafts and Artwork

Hall 4 and 5A:  Country French and Outdoor

Hall: 5A and 6:  Home Accessories

Hall: 5B and 5C:  Furniture

Hall 7:  International companies and designers

Hall: 8A and 8B:  Outdoor Living

If you just can’t get enough, check out the MO Blog which is filled with events and sort of behind the scenes looks into what’s going on: http://blog.maison-objet.com/en

Claudia Strasser is the author of The Paris Apartment: Romantic Decor on a Flea Market Budget. She moved her famed New York City Boutique, also called The Paris Apartment, online and just recently released her iPhone app, Keys to the Fleas, on iTunes. And on top of managing a thriving business, writing another book (or two) and planning her frequent trips to Paris, Claudia still finds time to keep her blog—also called The Paris Apartment—constantly updated. Claudia’s followers—and there are many—have learned how to bring Paris style to their homes in the U.S.

Forest Collins, the savvy writer behind discriminating Paris cocktail blog 52 Martinis, shares with us here her frustrations with France’s strange aversion to H2O’s solid incarnation. She also has the low-down on where to go for seriously refreshing cocktails. Hint: it’s not your corner bistrot.

As an American expat in Paris, the question I get most often is: What do you miss most about home?  Honestly, this question usually stumps me.

While, of course I miss friends, they come frequently for visits, so it’s less of an issue. In a pinch I can find a reasonable substitute for many of the readily available items from the U.S. that I might miss.  If not, said stream of friends usually keep me in a steady supply of goods and sundries that evade me here.  But, there’s one thing I can’t ask even my nearest and dearest to lug over in a suitcase: Frozen water.  Yes, you heard correctly.  The thing I miss most about the US is ice.

When I’m back home, I get a special thrill out of sitting down to a table from the grungiest of roadside diners to the fanciest of upscale eateries and immediately being served a large glass of water full of sparkly, playfully tinkling, cold-making ice!  While, in France, you’re lucky to get a small votive candle holder full of warm tap water after asking…twice.

And, this epidemic goes beyond commercial establishments into the very hearts of homes nationwide. On trips to Seattle, I play with my friends’ automatic ice makers, spewing out cube after magically chilly cube, delighted by this largesse.  In France, you’d be lucky to find a freezer containing ice trays.  You’re even luckier if they’ve been filled prior to putting them in. My least favorite are the homes that use those thin blue disposable plastic bubble-infested bags for home ice-making.  I find these about as about as effective as scrunching up a plastic sack from the grocery store, immersing it in a bowl of water and sticking it in the freezer.

Back when I was still living in the US, I had a girlfriend who had spent a few years in Paris.  She was my go-to girl for all things Euro.  I observed her foreign affectations and dreamed of the day that I, too, would be an ex-pat.  Then one evening we went for drinks.  She ordered hers with “no ice.” How very European of her!  And, suddenly I saw a possible glitch in my dreams of becoming Frenchified.  I can’t envision a life without ice.  I can’t envision a life without cocktails.  And, a proper cocktail depends on ice for it very existence!

Having lived here for years now, I enjoy learning about and trying to integrate into French culture.  But, I still simply can’t understand the French aversion to ice.

A joke I heard recently::

“Why don’t the French make ice?”

“Because they can’t agree on the recipe”

After 9 years here, I still can’t get to the bottom of this deep-seated aversion. Perhaps it’s linked with their distrust of air-conditioning.

So, what’s an all American ice loving, cocktail sipping girl to do in Paris?  I’ve been known to take my love of ice to extremes and pack it in insulated bags to bring along to others’ homes and gift people with ice trays.  This evening I’m going to the home of some French friends for dinner.  They’ve asked me to make cocktails for the occasion.  Of course, I emailed them yesterday and told them to start making ice.

For those seeking Paris cocktail bars that know the value-added of a bit of solid H2O, here are a few of my favorite stops:

Prescription Cocktail Club (23 rue Mazarine, 75006) is my go-to for serious craft cocktails by knowledgeable staff in a loungey, speakeasy-reminiscent environment.  For extra ice-y fun order something that uses their large format cubes.  You’ll be hard pressed to find cocktails of this quality ringing in at such reasonable prices elsewhere.

A bit more downscale, the Andy Wahloo (69, Rue des Gravilliers 75003) doesn’t skimp on ice.  In hot summer months order something packed with the crushed ice and take a seat out back on the charming, lively terrace.  The vibe here is young and funky – especially during happy hour.

I’m a fan of pretty much everything they do at le Forvm (4 Blvd Malesherbes 75008) where their attention to detail and consideration of cocktails ensures that every drinks is made with just the right ice.  This is where I go if I’m feeling flush and craving some sophisticated sipping. Sometimes the kid in me likes to play with the large, chunky ice sticks you might get in a cocktail at the modern and upscale E7 bar (39, av de l’Opéra, 75002) at the Hotel Edouard.  Drinks here are pricey, but this little spot has become the darling of epicurean Paris socialites and offers up a selection of unusual spirits. And, of course, ice isn’t exclusively for cocktails.  I head over to Mama Shelter (109 Rue de Bagnolet 75020)  if I want a refreshing glass of cucumber infused ice water along with a stellar cocktail.  The cocktail menu changes every few months at this hip and trendy spot that makes you feel like a rock star for a pretty reasonable price.

Related Links:

• Parisien Salon on Paris’ trendy tequila-only bar, Le Blitz
• The original bloody mary from Harry’s New York Bar in Paris!
• HipParis Blog on the Curio Parlor

Written by Forest Collins for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Phone: 01.45.26.26.30

Metro Station: Saint-Georges (Line 12) or Pigalle (Lines 2 and 12)

Type of cuisine: French

Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri Noon - 2:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. Sat 6:30 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.

Credit card: Visa, MasterCard

Located across from place Gustave Toudouze, the attractive purple awning and the wide, sparkling-clean windows of this restaurant catch the eye of passersby making their way up rue Henri Monnier.  One cannot help but pause in front of the establishment to peruse its menu (posted on a chalkboard) to see if appealing dishes are served there. And indeed there are!  It was our pleasure to dine at Côté 9ème on a recent Friday evening to determine whether the food was as appetizing as the menu descriptions made it sound.

As we were the first customers to enter, we were seated at a table that gave us a splendid view of the square across the street.  During the course of the evening, we could observe children playing tag and hide-and-seek there, and adults returning their bicycles to the Vélib’ parking stand.  The bustle of activity in the square provided delightful distraction while we dined.

Upon my inquiry, the waiter told me that the Potage du jour was vegetable and that I could have it served cold or hot.  As the evening air was warm, I decided to try it cold.  It was a good choice!  The thick soup, prepared as a coarse purée and flavored with olive oil, arrived in a terrine.  It was delicious!

My partner opted for the Fromage frais aux olives sur cake au chèvre.  She was served a slice of cake, reminiscent of a pound cake, punctuated with chunks of goat cheese.  It was tangy and tasty, if a bit dry.  On her plate were also two generous dollops of fromage frais sprinkled with chopped chives and finely chopped black olives.  A small mixed-green salad garnished the dish.

The main course was equally tasty.  I ordered the Saint Jacques, gambas et rascasse à la citronnelle, and was served a wide, shallow bowl containing a vegetable broth in which floated scallops, giant prawns, and scorpion fish.  Accompanying the seafood were potatoes, carrots, snow peas, and a slice of lemon.  This was a wonderfully robust and flavorsome meal.

My parner was served Navarin d’agneau, petits pois printaniers, a savory lamb stew with an accompaniment of small peas, snow peas, baby carrots, pearl onions, and an occasional wilted lettuce leaf.  The dish was so copious that she could not finish it.

To accompany our meal, we ordered a Languedoc Château Le Thou 2006 à la ficelle, which means that you pay for the amount of wine that you consume from the bottle that is placed in front of you.  The garnet-colored wine was slightly tannic, peppery, and sharp, turning softer as the wine aerated.

Thickly sliced, fresh baguette was served alongside in a basket.

For the dessert course, there were eight types to choose from, plus a cheese plate, making our decision difficult.  I finally voted for the Fondant aux marrons, glace marron, because I have never seen this on other menus.  I received a small, round cake whose hot, chestnut-cream center immediately flowed out when I pierced the top.  This, plus the chestnut ice cream served on the side, was a special treat!

My partner, who has determined to try rum baba wherever it is offered, selected the Baba au rhum et au thym.  Even before he brought out the baba, the waiter placed a bottle of Karukera rum from Guadeloupe on the table.  This is a signal that the customer may liberally sprinkle the baba with as much rum as desired!  A little bit also ended up in her empty water glass, providing her with a small digestif following the dessert.

The bill for two, including two apéritifs, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, a ficelle of wine, and an espresso, came to 89€.

The waiter, whom we imagine is also the proprietor of the restaurant, was friendly and helpful.  After serving the dessert he offered to take a picture of us with our camera.

Would we return here again?  Yes, indeed!  We left the restaurant quite pleased with ourselves for having “discovered” and dined in this charming establishment.

Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975.  A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992.  Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris.  His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.”  He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.

Once upon a time there was a little girl who heard about a beautiful, enchanting city in a land far far away where people wore berets, ate something called ‘baguette’, and spoke what she immediately decided must be one of the prettiest languages in the world. She learnt about all the ancient stone buildings that stood tall and magnificent along the long, winding river that ran through the middle of the city, and she listened to songs sung in this pretty language. The little girl fell in love with the idea of this magical city, and consequently spent many hours, days, months, and years dreaming about what it might be like to wander its cobblestones streets. Time went by and life went on but still, the idea of this city and the country it was a part of remained in her heart and in her dreams.

That was over 80 years ago, some time around 1930. As we all know too well, life goes on and dreams get put on shelves. For this little girl, wars came and went, lovers stole her heart, children were born, then grandchildren, and then great grandchildren, her body became more fragile but still, she never forgot about her dream and she never lost hope that one day she might see this beautiful city in person – she always dusted the shelf where her dream lay waiting for her.

Today, that little girl is 90 years old. Her name is Joyce and she is my beloved great aunt who, when I was a little girl, taught me how important it was to dream and how important it was to keep dreams alive. When I visited her back home in Sydney this past January, she told me that this year she was determined to get to Paris, the city of her dreams. I told her, “If you go, no matter where I am in the world or what I’m doing, I will be there with you – I will not miss it for the world.”

Yesterday was the day her dream came true.

Together with her daughter Kathy, myself and Romain, the four of us strolled through the Jardin des plantes, took in the view of the Notre Dame along pont sully, had lunch at Café Louis-Philipe, wandered along the surrounding streets all the while taking in the sights and scenery. She can’t quite believe it is happening, and I am beyond ecstatic to be here with her and show her some of the Paris that I have come to know and love.  This afternoon we plan to go to Montmatre to see the Sacre Coeur and have an aperitif in a little bar somewhere along the way. It’s not an easy feat with a wheelchair in tow, but so far we have managed. Countless times Aunty Joyce said to me yesterday, “Why has it taken me so long to get here?” and I said, “It doesn’t matter, you are here now, and it just goes to show you, dreams can come true” and she added “yes, and age is just a word”.

I was lucky enough to live in Paris earlier this year. During my time in one of the fairest cities, I soaked up the language, tossed back (a few too) many glasses of red and practically inhaled the food. I also wandered, a lot. I’m the sort of tourist who likes to explore the nooks and crannies, those precious spots that are forgotten on a map but hold a special magic beyond the typical grand Paris sites.

Oh, I did fit in the requisite amount of “grand” though. Naturellement! I was a trooper, performing my tourist duty by visiting all of the major Parisian landmarks, leaving my gasps and wishes in the same spots you likely did. I gazed at the Eiffel Tower and marveled at the views from both Sacre Coeur (très vaste) and the Centre Pompidou (très spécial). I even strolled down Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, a street speckled with bright shop windows that are filled with tiny sparkling items more valuable than my not-as-tiny house in the States.

I saw it all, hoping I blended in among the fashionable locals but knowing deep down, way deep down, that I still looked like the typical tourist – wide-eyed, a bit awestruck, mouth permanently agape, cheeks flushed from all the wine, and generally feeling quite blessed and lucky.

Alas, all that wine blushing up my skin totally gave me away. While I was living in a dream, a few unsavory locals easily spotted my tourist moves (you know, the wide-eyes, mouth agape, flushed cheeks) and attempted to weasel me with their foolish scams. I was forewarned by local friends and, fortunately, able to avoid the embarrassment. Many of my tourist brethren were not so lucky.

Luck, however, is on your side. I watched, appalled, as each tourist, high on the city of lights, repeatedly fell for scam after scam. I’m busting out the scams I discovered here so you don’t have to succumb to their same fate.

First and foremost, you must remember this key piece of information on your next stroll through central Paris: No one would sell you a real gold ring for 10 Euros. Not in Paris. Not anywhere. Not even your real grandmother would sell you a piece of 18-karat gold for 10 Euros. Just wouldn’t happen.

Photo by Supagroova

So when your sweet Parisian fairy godmother or godfather finds a pretty gold ring at your very feet, they’ll explain how they’re certain it belongs to you. When you insist that it isn’t, which naturally you will, they’ll start raving about how genuine the ring is and how they’ll be only too glad to sell it to you for whatever you’re willing to pay. Two words: Don’t pay. In fact, don’t bother. Just perfect a très Parisian scowl and move right on along. If they persist, shout at them, preferably in French, and, remarkably, they will vanish.

Now when strolling about the streets of Montmartre, especially around the gorgeousness that is Sacre Coeur, you’ll likely be on the hunt for a souvenir or two. Do me this favor. When the kindly gentlemen offer to help you mark your moment touristique with a simple string bracelet tied around your wrist, don’t accept. You may think it’s so cute and similar to the red strings worn all over Los Angeles, but after giving it away so sweetly, they’ll insist that you’ll now need to buy it, as the only way to remove it would be to cut the string (which damages the highly valuable product, I suppose). They’ll likely argue with you. It will turn into a désordre horrible. Keep in mind, these gallant men may not even ask permission; they may simply tie one on an outstretched arm. It’s just best to keep your arms to yourself and buy your souvenirs in a store.

My last sentence readily applies to this additional piece of advice I feel compelled to share. The vendors that dot the base of the Eiffel Tower are eager to move their miniature versions of the tallest building in Paris. In fact, they’ll follow you around as you gaze toward the sky, hoping to win your favor and your wallet. Here’s the tip: All of these eager salesmen likely paid just a few coins (on the Euro) for each.  When they start arguing about who has the best price and causing a general commotion to win your business, just move along. You can find the very same mini-statues in every corner shop in Paris. I hate to spoil your Parisian moment but the ones sold at the base of la dame de fer aren’t extra special.

I’m returning to Paris soon and feel so far more prepared than before, hoping that I won’t look like the tourist that I truly am. Though I could probably live in Paris for 10 years and still look like a tourist. Well, better me than you, oui? Now you can enjoy the city of lights stress-free, while I continue to scout out scams. I’ll share more soon if you promise not to giggle when I walk down the street – wide-eyed, awestruck and, despite these little nuisances, still feeling quite blessed and lucky.

Related Links:

• Trip Advisor on ring sellers
• Virtual Tourist’s top Paris tourist traps
• How to look like a tourist in 5 easy steps

Written by Maggie Battista for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris. Top photo by Daniel P. Fund on Flickr.

Phone: 01.40.54.97.24

Metro Station: Porte de Champerret (Line 3)

Type of cuisine: French

Days & hours of operation: Tues to Sat Noon - 2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. (11:30 p.m. Fri and Sat)

Credit card: Visa, MasterCard

Walls the color of maize, a black-and-white checkerboard tile floor, red vinyl benches against the walls, ceiling fans, wooden tables, mirrors displaying wine options written in colorful marking pen—all of this added up to a bistrot that our dining companion described as “cozy.”

And the food was great, too!

For the starter, I ordered Carpaccio de tête de veau, sauce ravigotte.  Tête de veau is a jellied meat preparation made from the head of a calf; weak-hearted diners should abstain!  The waiter brought a plate containing a small, mixed-green salad atop a serving of very thin slices of calf’s head that had been generously garnished in ravigotte sauce.  The sauce was prepared with chopped gherkins, giving crunchy texture to an otherwise gelatinous dish.

My partner ordered the Terrine de campagne, and received a cutting board supporting a generous slice of country-style terrine that she described as spicy and not overly fatty.  The terrine was served with toasted country bread and a ramekin containing cauliflower and green and red peppers, all marinated in vinegar.

Pursuing the country-style food theme, I ordered Cuisse de lapin fondante et petits légumes de saison.  The rabbit thigh had been stewed, and was served atop a bed of tender spring vegetables, peas, string beans, onions, green peppers, carrots, and chanterelle mushrooms, all in a shallow pond of gravy.  The meat was so tender that it fell off the bone, as signified by the word fondante in the name of the dish.  Hearty and delicious!

For her main course, my partner ordered Quasi de veau, petits légumes de saison et champignons.  She was served two thickly cut portions of veal, the interior of which had been cooked to just slightly pink.  The slices rested on a bed of green peas, green beans, parsnips, and chanterelle and meadow mushrooms.  A light-brown gravy added savor to the dish.

To accompany our meal, we ordered a half-bottle of Morgon Marcel Lapierre 2008, a medium-bodied red with soft tannins.

Thickly-sliced country bread with a crunchy crust was served alongside in a basket.

When the dessert menu was presented, I saw my chance to try something different.  I placed my order for theFeuilleté caramelisée, pommes confites, rhubarbe et glace caramel. I was not at all disappointed to receive a crispymillefeuille filled with apple and rhubarb compote, garnished with a squiggle of caramel sauce, and served with a scoop of caramel ice cream.  The dessert was not overly sweet, and was, in a word, delightful!

My partner opted for the Sablé Breton, crème mascarpone et fraise gariguette.  And here came the surprise!  She was served a verrine (a squat glass) containing layered ingredients.  The bottom layer consisted of shortbread topped with mascarpone.  On top of this was a layer of chopped gariguette strawberries and an ultra-thin tuile (butter cookie), all sprinkled with powdered sugar and garnished with a mint leaf.  What a sweet treat!

The bill for two, including two three-course, fixed-price menus at 32€, a half-bottle of Morgon, and an espresso, came to 87.50€.

After 8:00 p.m., the restaurant filled up quickly with customers.  The wait staff hurried about, fulfilling their duties admirably.  Our waitress readily answered our questions about the food.

For travelers seeking an authentic “French experience,” L’Entredgue is the place to dine!

Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975.  A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992.  Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris.  His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.”  He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.

Erica Berman has a gift. She can look at a crumbling shell of a hovel and see its potential as a beautiful apartment. This gift has served her well over her 18 years living in Paris, as she’s renovated upwards of 15 apartments that started out as “blah” (at best), only to be transformed into “wow.”

Her most recent project really put her abilities to the test, as she and her partner Alain renovated a small studio overlooking the Cimetière de Montmartre. Having stayed in what is now a fantastic apartment, I was stunned when Erica shared the story of its evolution.

“There was nothing there but the bones when we bought it,” explains Erica. “Just a shelf.” Looking at some of the “before” photographs also reveals peeling walls, unremarkable floors and an enclosed bathroom that cut the space dramatically. “There was nothing in there we wanted to keep,” she adds.

Erica and Alain worked with an architect to determine the best way to use the space. Once they agreed on the layout, they got to work with a contractor. The old bathroom was completely knocked out. The new plan split the space so that the toilette was enclosed near the apartment’s entrance, with the shower and sink opening to the rest of the apartment.

Before & After: The Pilleux bathroom goes from blech to beautiful.

“We decided not to add a door because we thought it worked better,” says Erica. They also decided to keep the glass shower door transparent. “You can see Sacre Coeur while you’re in the shower, which is pretty amazing.”

Tearing out the existing wall allowed more room for the kitchen area.

The renovation included adding a surprising amount of cupboard and closet space, along with shelves and a modern kitchen with a sink, convection cooktop, oven, refrigerator and a washer/dryer duo. There’s also a sofa that doubles as a twin bed, but the most delightful surprise in this apartment is the Murphy-style bed.

Antique doors Erica found in Provence hide the bed during the day and add a distinctive accent to the space. Alain crafted the bed himself, fashioning “feet” for when the bed is pulled down from the hooks that serve as handles. He also spent countless hours cleaning the tiles that edge the kitchen space.

After three months of work, the renovated apartment was completed, filled with wonderful objects Erica found at the Provence and Paris flea markets. The next challenge—or so Erica thought—would be the location of the studio.

The entrance to Cité Pilleux

“We thought that because it’s off the main tourist track, we’d have a harder time booking the apartment,” says Erica. “We were wrong.” In fact, the apartment has proved one of Haven in Paris’ most popular. From my experience of staying there, it’s easy to understand its appeal. It offers a magnificent view, has all the conveniences of a modern apartment, and all the charm of what one expects to find in Paris.

But, more than that, this apartment offers an authentic Paris experience. Stepping through the gates of Cité Pilleux and walking past the artisans and artists who set up shop along the path makes one feel like they’ve been afforded insider access to the real Paris. The apartment straddles Montmartre and the trendy Batignolles neighborhood, and a leisurely stroll reveals wonderful restaurants and boutiques frequented by the locals.

This is also something Erica realized when scouting the apartment. “This is the real Paris,” she says. “And that’s something we wanted to share.”

For more photographs of this apartment, visit Haven in Paris.

Anyone who has ever prepared for a trip to Paris has undoubtedly asked themselves the same question … a question based largely on stereotypes and media depictions: “Aren’t the Parisians rude?”

Well, yes and no.

While they are most certainly less gregarious and smiley than their Anglophone counterparts, Parisians are not always as surly and difficult as their reputation precedes them. There are certain rules, often tacit, that Parisians expect people to follow. This is true for locals and tourists and can be applied to any city. New Yorkers, for example, aren’t exactly the image of friendliness and hospitality, having to contest their own somewhat dubious reputation.

Yet perhaps what is problematic is the word tourist as it immediately turns an otherwise intelligent, cultured individual into a fumbling, oblivious imbecile. Let me give you an example. Recently, I was waiting in line at a busy clothing store when an American woman in her forties, visibly wealthy and sporting bright green sweat pants with PINK written on the bum (Victoria’s Secret trademark), waltzed up to one of the cashiers and loudly hurled, “Where are your bathrooms?”

“Bonjour,” replied the cashier. (Take note, this is mistake number one).

“Yeah, hi. Where are your restrooms? “

“We don’t have any.”

“Well, where am I supposed to go? “ she asked impatiently. (Sense of entitlement.)

“Across the street. There’s a public toilet.” (Read: not my problem.)

“Ugh, okay thanks,” she retorted dryly.

She then proceeded to speak as loudly as she could, making herself seen from all angles of the store, while irritated onlookers (and me, the ashamed American) rolled their eyes and sighed heavily, in true Parisian fashion.

This segues nicely into my rules (and suggestions) for tourists in Paris:

1) The cardinal rule: Say “bonjour” – even in your most atrocious French – when you approach people.

When you are at the airport (having not yet realized that all the signs are in French AND English) and searching for someone to ask how to get to the train to the city, say “bonjour” first. When you enter a shop, bakery, or restaurant, do not forget to say “bonjour,” preferably sans the toothy, over-excited grin. Saying “au revoir” will win you points as well.

2) Lost? Move over!

Do not stop dead in your tracks in the middle of the sidewalk or directly in front of the metro turnstile blocking Parisians from slithering through to get to their final destination (surely some kind of fashion exhibit, no?). What is it that physically prevents people from moving off to the side to find their way?

3) Stay on the right side of the sidewalk.

Traveling in groups of more than two does not give you the right to monopolize the walkway. I know, the beauty of Paris is so breathtaking that you can’t help but stroll aimlessly to take it all in. I completely understand. Just stroll in a more orderly fashion. This seems to be a point of contention in any tourist city so I propose following in the footsteps of NYC’s Improv Everywhere group and create pedestrian traffic lanes, separating Parisians from visitors. I would love to see it implemented not only on sidewalks but in the metro stations as well.

4) Show cleavage or leg, never both.

Girls often complain about getting harassed by men in Paris yet, to be fair, their idea of dressing-up is wearing as little clothing as possible. (American and English girls, you know who you are.) Think twice before you wear that mini skirt and breast-bursting top. As a rule of thumb, French women show a little cleavage or a little leg, but not both. Revealing too much verges on being excessively promiscuous and since being perceived as slutty is a French woman’s worst nightmare, it should be avoided at all costs. In a country where sexual harassment policies barely exist, you should also keep in mind that American and English women have a reputation for being easy. Sartorial discretion is therefore recommended.

5) Blend in.

If you’re studying French at the Sorbonne all summer, you’re still a tourist. We know this because you travel in packs, lack volume control, and are swept off your feet at every feeble pick-up line from any scrawny French guy, no matter how desperate or unattractive. Take the excitement down a notch, lower your voice and realize that you’re garnering yourself negative attention. Important: do not assume the French don’t understand what you’re saying about them in English. This is where using indoor voices will come in handy.

Ready?

Overall, the French do not like when tourists show up and act like they own the place, disregarding local customs and etiquette. No, Parisian waiters are not going to cook your dish in light oil instead of butter, even if you smile widely when you ask them. No, Parisians are not going to stop and ask you if you need help finding your way (but will help if asked) and no, Parisians are not going to make small talk with you on the metro. But Parisians are no worse than other people. They simply want to see that you’re TRYING to adapt to their culture. So read up a little, leave your Victoria Secret sweatpants at home and speak whatever French you can muster. I assure you, you will leave unscathed!

Philadelphia native Lindsey Tramuta came to Paris to go to school and stayed on because she fell in love with her now-husband Cédric. This marketing and communications professional also loves food, music and reading. And she willingly shares her often-amusing views on life as an expat in Paris in her blog, Lost In Cheeseland. Photo courtesy of joshuaphilippesy.

Flâner has always been one of my favorite French verbs. The dictionary definition reads “se promener sans but précis” (to walk without a precise goal). Since aimless wandering is basically my raison d’etre in Paris, I appreciate that the French have a word dedicated to the act.

But here’s the kicker: they don’t have just one word for it. My thesaurus indicates that flâner has twelve synonyms. TWELVE synonyms, all of which convey the idea of slowly walking for the sake of walking. I’m the first to admit that walking rules—in fact, I do it quite often—but twelve synonyms? Surely the French have crossed the line into excess.

But no, my friends, no! Spend some time in Paris and you will quickly understand how many different types of strolling there are—I would argue that twelve is, in fact, a vast understatement. In addition to flâner, we have déambuler (to stroll), errer (to march here and there, at random), se promener (to walk oneself… as if you were your own French bulldog), vagabonder… you get the idea.

And in addition to the twelve official ways of walking, I’ve developed a few of my own “walks” that don’t yet seem to have formal labels:

The backwards walk. This comes in handy when I need to head east, but the Eiffel Tower is doing its sparkling thing, so rather than turn my back on it, I just walk backwards until it’s done, trying my best not to stumble off a bridge.

The “I’m not lost” walk. Naturally, I do this one when I’m lost. The key is to walk really slowly so you appear to be flâner–ing (just taking it all in… nothing to see here), but really you are retracing your steps, or turning in circles, or wondering if that’s the same Franprix you passed twenty minutes ago. It’s ok; wherever you’re going, you’ll get there eventually, and in the meantime, you’re lost in Paris. How romantic!

The walk of NO shame. The sun is up, and yet, having hopped from bar to bar, I have not yet gone home for the night, and my outfit now seems highly inappropriate. Rather than running for cover, I simply stroll through whatever open-air market I come to, eying the produce like the savvy early-morning shopper I am pretending to be. (Then I buy a baguette and eat it in bed before I fall asleep for the rest of the morning).

The post-dinner walk. It’s sloowwww. It’s happy. It sometimes stumbles off the curb a little bit. It leads you to your bed, where you may or may not collapse without taking your shoes off. Oh well.

But no matter how I’m walking, or where I’m going, there’s no other city I’d rather be doing it in. What about you, readers? How do you walk in Paris?

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris. Top photo by Madcowk.