Phone: 01.42.00.07.21

Metro Station: Laumière (Line 5)

Type of cuisine: French

Days & hours of operation: Mon and Tues noon – 3:00 p.m. Thurs to Sat noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sun noon – 3:15 p.m.

Credit card: Visa, MasterCard

Joggers, parents with their children, and people just going for a stroll love the Parc des Buttes Chaumont on Sunday—even on a cold Sunday.  This is what we recently discovered when we showed up at the park’s Pavillon du Lac for lunch.  I do not remember ever having seen so many active people in a park on a cold (yet sunny) day in Paris.

The Pavillon du Lac stands inside the park and to the right of the entry gate (as one enters the park) at place Armand Carrel.  The handsome building was constructed in 1867 for use as a bistrot.  It has recently been totally renovated and has been open for business since June 2010.

We were greeted warmly by the responsible de salle, who showed us to our table next to the window.  From there we could observe the busy comings and goings of people running by or walking on the pathway in front of the building.  Shortly after we were seated the restaurant filled with diners who came for the Sunday brunch.  Many were families with young children.

We began with an apéritif, a glass of Henriot champagne, which we found to be quite dry with notes of green apple.

For the starter, I requested Saumon mariné maison, espuma de Wasabi and was presented with a rectangular plate displaying two slices of salmon and a goblet containing wasabi foam.  The salmon was succulent and chewy and I dipped morsels of the fish into the foam.  The spicy-hot wasabi (also known as Japanese horseradish) gave sharp contrast to the mild, tender salmon.  I’m not too sure that the subtle flavor of salmon should be covered up with such a spicy preparation, but I enjoyed the dish nevertheless.

My partner ordered Velouté de courge musquée, chips de patate douce vitelottes.  This was a nice presentation of pumpkin soup in a deep, oval-shaped bowl with chips of Vitelotte sweet potatoes floating on top.  The soup was dense without being creamy and only needed a sprinkling of salt to bring out its flavor.  Three crisped slices of warm, country baguette were served alongside.

After the waiter informed us that our first choice for the main course—wild deer in whisky sauce—was no longer available, we opted for the Magret de canard du sud-ouest sauce soja, écrasé de topinambour, choux Romanesco.  We were treated with another beautiful presentation:  a slice of breast of duck cut longitudinally resting on a swath of sweetened soy sauce next to a square mound of crushed Jerusalem artichoke.  The duck breast had been pan seared and cooked rare and was tender and moist.  The Jerusalem artichokes were savory and buttery.

For the wine accompaniment we each ordered a glass of Domaine du Coriancon 2010, a Côte du Rhône.  With a deep, red-purple robe it was medium bodied and slightly tannic and had a note of licorice.  However, it did not accompany the duck as well as we had hoped because of the sweetness of the soy sauce.

Thick-sliced, alveoli-riddled, fresh baguette was served alongside in a basket.

Dessert brought more of the chef’s masterful presentations to our table.  My Poire pochée au vin rouge, sphère de chocolat, chantilly maison was a fluff of white whipped cream next to a dark-purple pear that had been poached in red wine.  A finger of crispy puff-pastry and a dash of chocolate powder garnished the dish.  The presentation of my partner’s Vacherin praliné, marron glacé, émulsion lait de coco was no less interesting.  The waiter brought a squat canning jar containing a layer of milk chocolate crème topped with crumble and a scoop of chestnut ice cream.  Two vanilla meringues protruded from the jar and a pitcher of frothy coconut milk was served alongside.  The idea was to pour the coconut milk over the milk-chocolate-crumble-chestnut-ice-cream vacherin, dig in with a spoon, and enjoy—which she did!

The service was friendly and helpful and the restaurant, full of small kids, was rather noisy.  In the end however, we enjoyed the meal and the experience of lunch in the handsome pavilion of this beautiful park.

The bill for two, including two glasses of champagne, two three-course menus, and two glasses of wine came to 103€.

Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975.  A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992.  Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris.  His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.”  He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.

City life sometimes pushes you to get out and away from its hectic central pump; Parisian city life is no exception. Likewise, living in the city center and riding the city’s metro system on a regular basis can often make one wonder about what exactly lies at the end of each numbered line. Personally speaking, Line 1’s final Château de Vincennes stop has always dominated my metro riding daydreams. After all, it’s tempting to imagine a castle within a city girl’s reach. And one spring day as I finally ventured out to chase Line One, metro stop Château de Vincennes turned out to be a Parisian pot of gold waiting at its end.

Built as a simple retreat and hunting lodge for Louis IX, the Chateau de Vincennes was a favorite haven for 13^th and 14^th century French kings. Today, visitors can still wander the inner courtyards of the estate that include a small, beautiful chapel and castle towers. Next to the chateau though, the Bois de Vincennes beckons. Reaching nearly four square miles, the Bois is an immense haven that originally served as hunting grounds for the kings of France. Thanks to Napoleon III, the space became a public retreat in 1860 that today includes a zoo, arboretum, two sports venues and four lakes. With its larger-than-life sign, Parc Floral, located next to the chateau, is perhaps its most charming pocket.

A complete departure from the Luxembourg and Tuilieries Gardens, Parc Floral is refreshing not only for its abundant bouquet of floral specimens that seemingly fill every one of its nooks and crannies, but for its freedom of design. As families and groups of friends gather next to the park’s largest pond and on small hillsides to catch the breeze as it dances through the grass, playgrounds, marionette shows and even a miniature golf course complete with famous Parisian landmarks as course obstacles provide ample adventure for little ones. Restaurants onsite will encourage you to stay longer or better yet, bring your own picnic and spend the whole day.

It’s easy to forget that you’re even in Paris as you wander through patches of wild flowers and under unordered canopies of trees. This is the anti Parisian-perfect park and a just-right dosage for those needing a quick remedy to city life.

Caitlin Rodgers’ roots are deep in the heart of Texas, but she happily traded them for the chance to know Paris. Currently a graduate student studying global communications, she loves getting lost in the city’s many sides and side streets which she often regales in her blog, Porch Swings and Sunsets.

Phone: 01.47.05.80.39

Metro Station: Ecole Militaire (Line

Type of cuisine: French

Days & hours of operation: Mon 6:30 p.m. – 10:00 p.m. Tues to Friday noon – 2:15 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. – 10:00 p.m. Sat 6:30 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.

Credit card: Visa, MasterCard

The plain, yellow façade of Le P’tit Trouquet belies the charm of its dining room that lies within.  Enter into a time warp, where old-fashioned ceiling lamps are dressed with beaded fringes; where lace curtains grace the windows; dining tables are made of marble; a beautiful (non-functional) copper espresso machine sits on the pewter counter of a bar faced in ceramic; mustard pots, hand-cranked coffee grinders, and plates adorn knick-knack shelves; and a handsome red-and-white, checkerboard-tile floor gives a solid foundation to it all.

We began the evening with a glass of Nicolas Feuillatte champagne.  At 7€/glass, it seemed like a good price.  While we found it refreshing, we did not think that it had the complexity that one seeks in good champagne.  We defined it negatively:  it was not crisp, but not sweet either.  It was cloudy, not brilliantly clear.  My partner has tasted this champagne before, but never recalls having the sensation of unidimensionality that she experienced with it this time.

While we sipped the champagne, the waitress placed an amuse bouche on our table.  Called Rillettes de deux saumons, it was a pâté of salmon served in ceramic spoons with slender fingers of puff pastry.  A nice start!

For the starter, I ordered Aumônière de saumon fumé garnie aux crevettes.  I learned later that an aumônière is a drawstring purse that is tied to the waist, and that most aumônières de saumon are salmon prepared in a purse-shaped brick pastry.  This particular dish was a mound of prawns draped with strips of smoked salmon.  It was dome-shaped, not purse-shaped, but that did not matter because both the prawns and salmon tasted fresh and had a moist and tender texture.

My partner selected ordered two starters instead of a starter and a main course.  The first was a Tatin d’endives aux pommes et sa quenelle de chèvre frais aux herbes.  This was prepared in a way similar to my starter:  a mound of tender apple chunks was draped with wilted endive and topped with a half-sphere of cherry tomato.  Alongside were a small salad of mixed greens and a ceramic spoon containing creamy, fresh goat cheese with flavored with herbs.  She liked the contrast in flavors –  the sharpness of the cheese and herbs against the sweetness of the apple – and found it to be both satisfying and not overly filling.

I do not believe that I have ever seen deboned thigh of rabbit on a restaurant menu before.  It was called Désossé de cuisse de lapin à la moutarde violette, and I selected it for the main course.  Served in a shallow bowl with a small mound of whipped potatoes and stewed vegetables, the deboned rabbit rested in a pond of gravy.  The flesh was ultra-tender; the whipped potatoes were not overly creamy as some restaurants like to serve them; and the stewed red and green bell peppers and zucchini were savory.  It was a satisfying dish!

My partner’s second starter was Crème de potimarron, croquants de ravioles du Dauphiné. Several crunchy, cheese-filled ravioli floated in the creamy pumpkin soup, which was dressed with a single sprig of coriander.  The soup needed just a touch of salt, which she added from the container on the table.  It tasted so good that she did not hesitate to use the wonderfully fresh bread served with our meal to collect the last drops of soup from her bowl.

For the wine accompaniment, we selected a pot (46cl) of Bordeaux – Graves – Château Le Bonnat 2008.  It was spicy and peppery, not fruity, and did not go too well with the rabbit.  A lighter wine might have done the trick, perhaps a Beaujolais.

Thick-cut, chewy, fresh, sour-dough country bread was served alongside in a basket.

For dessert, I opted for Crème brûlée à la vanille.  What a delight it was to plunge my spoon through the brittle, freshly-caramelized, burnt-sugar crust and to withdraw it laden with luscious vanilla custard!  Enough said.

My partner requested Financier aux pommes, sauce caramel au beurre salé. The thick, almond-flavored, cake-like pastry sat atop a generous drizzle of caramel sauce and a small pool of crème anglaise.  Firm, cooked apples covered the cake.  A sprig of mint dusted with powdered sugar and a kumquat served as garnish.  The cake was tender and moist and the apples perfectly cooked. The caramel sauce was a welcome accompaniment.  The addition of crème anglaise was not necessary to make this a delectable dessert.

During the meal, we were served by two waitresses.  While both were friendly, one, who appeared to be the responsible de salle, expressed keen interest in our satisfaction with the meal.

The bill for two, including two glasses of champagne, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, a 46cl pot of wine, and an espresso, came to 102.00€.

Le P’tit Troquet is a great place to dine for travelers seeking delicious, traditional French food served in an old-fashioned bistro.

Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975.  A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992.  Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris.  His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.”  He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.

I have said it before and I’ll say it again here and now: I love Père Lachaise. I don’t even care about all the glitterati and literati and Illuminati buried there. I just find it to be a gloriously peaceful, happy place to wander. It’s a museum of mausoleums, where crypts and gravestones are like sculptures that compete for the title of most artistic. Stained glass windows and embellished doorways tell their own wondrous stories. I have spent many hours wandering through the cobbled pathways, and still have not seen the entirety of this sprawling cemetery. There is still much to be explored here … and so I shall. (All photos are copyrighted by Linda Donahue and cannot be used or reprinted without expressed written permission.)

Versailles attracts tourists like excited moths to a gilded flame and the Loire Valley, though completely enchanting, is a several hours drive from Paris. The Chantilly Château though, a 25 minute train ride from Paris, is equal parts accessible, uncrowded, and old-world folklore, making it a resplendent romp into France’s history of nobles, wars, and new republics. A place visited by mythic characters from French kings to Bond, James Bond, Chantilly Castle is a sharp snapshot of French history in a single take.

Though buses and taxis can be taken from the quaint Chantilly train station to the château, the twenty minute walk will wind you through wooded running trails and pastoral fields, transitioning you back to when the château was first built. Completed in 1394, the original chateau was destroyed during the French Revolution and rebuilt from 1875-81 by Henri d’Orleans. Arriving to the grounds, gilded gates beckon you forth through the entry. The castle looms ahead with massive grounds fanning out behind it—which. on a fair weather day, you could spend hours walking its lengths.

A French Downton Abbey perhaps, the castle’s noble ties began with the castle’s original construction in 1386 and lasted through the end of the 19^th century as it was passed down through branches of a single family that included lines to the king of France himself.  Inside the castle, you’ll find yourself amongst one of the best historical painting collections in all of France, that some believe is only second to the Louvre. The Musée Condé collection, which includes three Raphael paintings, still remains hung to the specific wishes of the Duke of Aumale, as stipulated in his will. And if you love a good library, the château has one that will make your heart skip. In total, 30,000 books fill the castle, and row after row of colorful, gold-glinted spines line the walls of the castle’s Book Room. Interesting stained glass windows tell Greek mythic stories as you cross creaking floors and feasting tables that stretch the length of rooms; together they work to create visions of what it must be like to live in a castle. Grand rooms, large tapestries, and stone walls are telltale signs that you are amongst noble history. The castle’s chapel, dedicated to Saint Louis and the private apartments of the Duke and Duchess of Aumale, only add to the vision and story.

The entire estate overlooks the Chantilly Race Courses, where races are held throughout the summer. Next to them are the Grand Stables and Living Horse Museum, which have indeed rightfully earned the title of grand; legend has it, Louis Henri, the Duke of Bourbon and Prince of Condé (who at one time owned the castle) believed he would be reincarnated as a horse. As a result, he oversaw in 1719 the building of stables that would serve as a proper and suitable future home. Visitors today have the chance to visit that home along with two restaurants—one inside the chateau and another in the park—as options for easing the hunger pains that come with traveling through history. Treat yourself to a regional specialty and make sure it’s topped with genuine Chantilly cream.

Horse shows and other special events are available. For more information on their dates and times, visit the château’s website, www.chateaudechantilly.com. If time remains before catching the train back to Paris or you just want to linger longer, stroll through the town to see what life in small-town France is like. Only a half hour from Paris, it’s the tale of another world.

Caitlin Rodgers’ roots are deep in the heart of Texas, but she happily traded them for the chance to know Paris. Currently a graduate student studying global communications, she loves getting lost in the city’s many sides and side streets which she often regales in her blog, Porch Swings and Sunsets.

Phone: 01.43.37.23.72

Metro Station: Censier-Daubenton (Line 7)

Type of cuisine: Italian

Days & hours of operation: Tues to Sat noon – 2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.

Credit card: Visa, MasterCard

A brown awning shelters six tables set out on the sidewalk terrace of Nonna Inès, a small restaurant serving traditional Italian food near rue Mouffetard.  The watermelon-colored façade is cheery and upon entering, one steps into a small dining room whose walls are decorated in an antique-yellow wash.  A small bar standing in the corner and photographs of family members on the walls impart an intimate feeling to this place.

The waiter expresses himself tersely, which can be off-putting for some, but during the meal we found him to be helpful when we asked questions about the wine and the food.

As an apéritif we each ordered Prosecco, a sparkling white wine from Italy.  I requested that mine by flavored with violet and my partner requested peach for a variation on the traditional Bellini cocktail that she so fondly remembers from visits to Rome.

The Antipasti del nonno (which translates as “Grandfather’s appetizer”) looked tempting, and I ordered it as a starter.  It was a generously-portioned dish:  two kinds of thinly-sliced ham (Parma and coppa) arranged to look like a rose resting on a bed of marinated eggplant and artichoke hearts along with a slice of Taleggio cheese.  The dish was more filling than a simple appetizer, and when I finished I wondered if I would have room for the main course!

My partner selected the Fantasia della Nonna Inès.  The waiter brought a squat glass containing warm eggplant layered with tomato, mascarpone cheese and Parmesan, all topped with a spray of fresh arugula.  The dish was unctuous and quite tasty, without being overly filling.

I ordered the fish of the day for the main course:  Dos de cabillaud rôti au speck, poëlée de poivrons et poireaux à l’huile d’olive.  This was yet another copious dish!  Three large, roasted chunks of cod formed a tripod on a bed of stewed tomatoes, green bell peppers, and leeks.  The top of the tripod held an arrangement of thinly-sliced speck, a salt-cured ham from Italy.  The fish was flaky, succulent, and tender, and the stewed vegetables were delicious.  I could not finish the speck, as it was too salty for me.

My partner was pleased with her Osso buco mijoté aux cèpes, riz sauté au Parmesan.  This dish had everything one could want in an Italian meal:  a large portion of veal with its bone rested on a bed of medium-grain rice that had been nicely perfumed with Parmesan.  Thinly-sliced cèpe mushrooms topped the veal, which was perfectly tender and flavorful.  The entire presentation rested in a shallow bowl that contained delicious brown gravy.

The choice of the wine accompaniment was made difficult because the restaurant’s selection of half-bottles of wine is severely limited.  Consequently, we settled on red and white wines by the glass.  Both were called Anghelia Magnum 2010, and both were produced by Cantina Santadi in Sardinia.  I found the white wine to be full bodied with a note of resin.  It was too powerful for the fish, but it had an interesting flavor nonetheless.  My partner’s red was richly complex, with notes of very ripe red fruits.

Fresh, thin-sliced bread with generous alveoli was served alongside in a basket.

For dessert, we went Italian all the way!  I ordered a Cantucci toscans et Vin Santo, a serving of sweet, almond-flavored, dry biscuits that one dips into the accompanying dessert wine.  A wonderful way to end the meal!  My partner ordered the Tiramisù du moment, which happened to be a generous portion of mascarpone cheese layered with a biscuit, chopped pear, and crumbled Speculoos, all dusted with cocoa.  Superb!

I finished the meal with an Italian espresso, a tiny cup of strong coffee displaying a magnificent crema, and my partner with a glass of Amaretto di Saronno.

The bill for two, including two apéritifs, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, two glasses of wine, one espresso, and one digestif, came to 97.10€.  Not a bad price for a moment spent in Italy!

Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975.  A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992.  Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris.  His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.”  He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.

I have an admission: I have never been inside the Eiffel Tower. I could blame the long lines or the weather, but the truth is that I find the Eiffel Tower a far more compelling object of admiration from afar. There is no more iconic representation of Paris that Gustave Eiffel’s wrought iron tower, especially when seen from across the Seine, or from Montmartre’s scenic butte. No matter how much time I spend in Paris, I still find myself smiling when I emerge from a winding Paris rue and suddenly spot the Eiffel Tower rising up against the landscape. Sometimes I wonder if Gustave planned it that way.

Up close, the Eiffel Tower is a marvel of engineering, but from a distance, it is the French capital’s immovable ambassador to the world.

Thanks to swift transportation and uniform Haussmann design, it’s rather easy to forget the true size of the French capital. These five vantage points, though not a complete list, are perfect ways to see the city in its full size and glory.

Pompidou Museum

Known as the Beaubourg by many locals, the Pompidou Museum is one of the city’s best known modern art centers, however beyond its art, the building offers a dazzling city view via its escalator ride on the outside edge of the building. In fact, I’m going to go ahead and call it – this is the best escalator ride in the world. Gradually inching up in the skyline, you’ll first reach Paris’ rooftops to only continue past them up to a bird’s eye view and eventually to what feels like an eye to eye leveling with the city’s tallest monuments. From the top floor of the museum as well as covered decks on lower floors, you have nearly a nearly 360 degree view of the city and at 3 euros, it’s a bargain for sure. Open until 11 pm on Thursdays, it is an excellent way to see the city full of blinding lights from a view point high up in the night sky.

Notre Dame

Called “beautifully balanced parts of a magnificent whole,” by Victor Hugo, the towers of Notre Dame Cathedral are a historic way to see the city. Situated at the geographic center of Paris, the view from Notre Dame is ideal. You’ll see how the Seine River cuts through the city, tracing out the Ile de la Cité and Ile St. Louis. While the spiral stair climb certainly gives you an appreciation for what living or working in old-world buildings must have been like, if small spaces or stair-master climbs are not your strength, this may not be the right experience for you. However, if you can muster the energy to climb, the chance to see Paris next to Victor Hugo’s famous gargoyles is très cool indeed.

Montparnasse Tower

This modern tower is perhaps the only view that can vertically beat the Pompidou Museum. Topping out at 56 floors, it only takes 38 seconds to reach the top in Europe’s fastest elevator. And the view that you’ll encounter upon exiting will most certainly leave an impression and appreciation for the sheer size of Paris – on a clear day, you can see 25 miles. The 360 view also ensures you’ll be able to see everything – as long as you can discern what’s what, that is. Unfortunately, being this high, means nearly everything grey and cream, which is well, nearly everything in this city, tends to blend together. Open late, the Montparnasse Tower is another excellent option for seeing the scope of the city after dark. A final plus, the Montparnasse Tower, which many consider a modern eye sore imposing itself on the historically city-chic skyline, is the one place in the city where you of course can’t see the Montparnasse Tower.

Galeries Lafayette

Practically a Paris institution, the Galeries Lafayette department store has one of the best kept secret views in the entire city. Lucky for you, you’re now in the know. Taking in the Lafayette’s beautiful dome ceiling, ride the store’s central escalators to the top floor. Coming out onto the roof, you’ll realize you have an intimate view of the Garnier Opera House and the foot traffic of busy Haussmann Boulevard. From here, Sacre Coeur, Notre Dame, the Pompidou Museum, Eiffel Tower and Invalides are all prominent points in the skyline view. Maybe best of all, it’s free and relatively uncrowded. You’re just high enough to capture the scale of the city but still see the comings and goings of its people several stories below.

Place de la Concorde

It’s true that here, at the French Revolution’s guillotine site, you’re not high above anything, but you’re at the center of practically everything. On the edge of the 7^th, 8^th, and 1^st arrondisemens, this spot offers a dazzling sight that is kind of like the Parisian Holy Grail: in a single spin, behold the Louvre Museum, the Tuileries Gardens, the magnificent Place de la Concorde fountains and obelisk, the Assemblé Nationale,  the luxe Hôtel de Crillon, a stone’s throw from the American Embassy, the Eiffel Tower and the stretch of street leading to the Arc de Triomphe also known as the Champs-Élysées and all while Paris traffic whirls around you. It’s a dazzling site to behold to say the least and one that becomes even cooler when you realize the that a straight line can be drawn from the center of the Arc de Triomphe all the way through the center of Place de la Concorde and the Tuileries Gardens to finally end at the Louvre Pyramids. A magnificent view only gets better when a ferris wheel is mounted on the Place’s edge each fall.

Tell us, which of these have you been to? And do you have a favorite view that isn’t on the list? Do share!

Caitlin Rodgers’ roots are deep in the heart of Texas, but she happily traded them for the chance to know Paris. Currently a graduate student studying global communications, she loves getting lost in the city’s many sides and side streets which she often regales in her blog, Porch Swings and Sunsets.

Phone: 01.43.26.10.20

Metro Station: Maubert-Mutualité (Line 10)

Type of cuisine: Mexican

Days & hours of operation: Mon to Sat 7:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m. Sun 12:30 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.

Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express

Nestled near the corner of rue des Bernardins and boulevard Saint-Germain, the green façade of Anahuacalli shyly summons passersby to step inside for a Mexican meal.  The dining room is decked in textured wallpaper the color of maize; exposed beams on the ceiling support two large ceiling fans; objects of Mexican folklore and images of artist Frida Kahlo decorate the walls…the décor is tasteful and reassuring.

The servers seem to be pressed for time in this busy restaurant and one might get the impression that they are not very convivial; however, when my partner lost her earring as she was removing her overcoat, the waitress expressed sympathy and helped her look for it.  Not finding it, she gestured toward me and declared that I would buy her (my partner) another!

We began by each ordering a margarita. These drinks are expensive, but they are served nicely chilled in large, wide-brimmed glasses.  They pack a punch!  We drank them throughout the meal, rather than ordering wine.

While we studied the menu, thin corn chips were placed on our table with two kinds of sauce.  Although the waitress explained that one sauce was hot, we found that we could tolerate it quite well.

For the starter, I ordered Nopalitos compuestos, a salad of cactus, tomato, coriander, and cheese.  I found the crunchy, succulent cactus of this salad to be quite refreshing.  Intermixed were slices of avocado and tomato; feta cheese was sprinkled on the top.

My partner chose Quesadilla de cuitlacoche, a flour tortilla topped with salsa and crumbly white cheese and stuffed with melted cheese, sweet corn kernels, and a paste made from corn smut (a plant fungus called cuitlacoche that is considered to be a delicacy in Mexico).  Served on a bed of lettuce with a large dollop of guacamole alongside, this tasty appetizer was filling enough to be a main course.

The menu offered eleven different main courses from which to choose.  I selected the last on the list, Tacos de la Merced.  The waitress brought a basked of hot flour tortillas and a compartmentalized dish containing five different fillings.  The idea was to take a tortilla, add a spoonful of filling from one of the serving dishes, roll the taco, and eat it with the fingers.  The dishes contained pork, chicken, sliced beef, pinto beans, and hashed beef.  Comparing them to Mexican dishes that I had tasted in California many years ago, I thought that most of the fillings lacked flavor.  The shredded chicken was over-seasoned with lemon juice, and the sliced beef was not very tender.  But then, the starter that I had just finished was quite large and by the time I got to the main course, my appetite was diminished.

My partner opted for Mole Poblano. This consisted of two sizeable portions of turkey breast covered with a deep brown, richly scented mole sauce that was sprinkled with sesame seeds. A serving of medium-grain white rice was served alongside.  The turkey was tender and the sauce subtly spicy and chocolat-y.

Servings here are copious.  As we were satiated after this huge meal, we forwent dessert.

The service was friendly and as rapid as it could be under the circumstances of a busy Saturday night.  The waitress helped me with my coat as I was leaving the restaurant.

Saturday night dining has two services, the first at 7:30 p.m. and the second at 9:30 p.m.

The bill for two, including five margaritas, two starters, and two main courses, came to 114.30€.

We think that travelers to Paris seeking Mexican food will enjoy dining at Anahuacalli.

Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975.  A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992.  Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris.  His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.”  He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.

Paris’ 5th arrondissement, otherwise known as the Latin Quartier, is rich with charm and history. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Mouffetard district. Saunter down the gentle slope of the montagne Saint-Geneviève to the Église Saint-Médard, passing the pretty Place de la Contrescarpe, and you’ll find yourself amidst perfectly picturesque surroundings with a charmingly tranquil atmosphere. Old houses, narrow alleyways, small courtyards, old signs, and babbling fountains all evoke the timeless history of this area, bustling with food shops and friendly bistros.

Located on the outskirts of the 5th arrondissement, the grandiose Val de Grâce is well worth a visit. A former royal abbey, the Val de Grâce has since been transformed into a military hospital. Built under Louis XIII, the abbey’s church and buildings are an extraordinary example of French classical architecture.

The Port Royal market, just alongside the Val de Grâce hospital, is held on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings, while the market at the nearby Place Monge opens on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday mornings. Lovers of fresh produce will also enjoy a stroll along the rue Mouffetard, one of the quarter’s oldest streets, from which the area takes its name. Here you can enjoy all the charm of a bustling little village, with shops and cafes open almost every day of the week, running from the Place de la Contrescarpe to the rue Jean Calvin.

At rue Monge, you can discover the Arènes de Lutèce. Built in the 1st century BC, this Roman amphitheater remained undiscovered for 17 centuries. Uncovered during the redevelopment of rue Monge in the 1860s, it fell under the protection of a preservation committee—la Société des Amis des Arènes—spearheaded by none other than Victor Hugo. Today, the remains of the amphitheater are found in this public square.

The nearby Université Pierre et Marie Curie will delight inquisitive minds with its stunning collection of 1,500 minerals, all beautifully exhibited behind glass windows. And the Institut du monde arabe is just a few hundred meters away. Designed by Jean Nouvel and Architecture Studio in the 1980s, this masterpiece of contemporary architecture—built in glass, concrete and metal—welcomes visitors to a museum and bookshop dedicated to Arab and Muslim culture. On the ninth floor is Le Zyriab, the museum’s restaurant, offering incredible views over the Seine and Notre-Dame from its walls of glass. And since 2011, the futuristic mobile art pavilion designed by Iranian architect Zaha Hadid has been occupying the museum forecourt and houses temporary exhibitions. This structure was originally designed in 2008 for Chanel.

Information for this article was provided by the Paris Convention and Visitors Center.