Paris in Focus: Esplanade Invalides
Story by Caitlin Rodgers. Photos by Linda Donahue.
Situated in the seventh arrondisement between the Eiffel Tower and Orsay Museum, Esplanade Invalides is a stretch of Parisian history that’s often overlooked. En route to work, school or tourist spots like the Rodin Museum and Rue Cler’s market, it can be more a place of crossing than destination. Dare to pass though and you’ll discover charming sketches of Parisian quotidian in this stretch of grass and sky. (more…)
A Friday Night in Paris
Story by Linda Donahue
What’s one to do on a warmer-than-usual Friday night in Paris while in the company of a handsome and stylish friend? That was the question I found myself asking last weekend as I met up with my friend in the 6th arrondissement of the French capital. As it turns out, the answer was a no-brainer. (more…)
An American in Paris: Jewelry Designer John Agee
Story by Linda Donahue
In the heart of Paris’ fashionable 6th arrondissement is the rue Jacob, a delightfully quiet street perched between the Boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine. Most of the people found strolling down this street are local residents, people who know the treasures that can be found here—including the enchanting showroom of the American jewelry designer, John Agee. (more…)
Incapacitated in Paris: What To Do If You’re Sick
Story by Linda Donahue
Last November, the night before I left for my winter stay in Paris, I had a classic “slip and fall” in a store that resulted in a few stitches in my knee. And this past Sunday, hours before I headed to the airport for that same winter stay, my back started to bother me. A nine-hour airplane ride later, it was a goner. I spent my first day in Paris immobilized and in pain. (more…)
Only in Paris, Only in Winter
Story and photos by Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
In a few days, I’ll be heading back to Paris for my annual winter stay. Temperatures will be brisk (to say the least). There will be no flowers, colorful or otherwise, blooming in the parcs and jardins, and daylight will be fleeting. It’s for these reasons that my friends and family members question my sanity, wondering why, for Pierre’s sake, I would leave warm and sunny Miami for time in cold and dark Paris. (more…)
Chasing the Ultimate Pastry in Paris
Story and photos by Adam Wayda
With no fewer than a million pastry shops within the city limits of Paris, there’s no shortage of éclairs, macarons, and tartes to keep you happy. But what if you’re chasing that ultimate pastry experience? Most self-respecting foodies would suggest you make your way directly to Pierre Hermé or Ladurée. There’s no argument that both, particularly Monsieur Hermé, produce brilliant work you shouldn’t skip, but when it comes to an all-around experience, both are still just shy of the pinnacle.
The reality is that some of the greatest pâtisseries have opened only within the last three years. Unlike many that came before them, the shops themselves are as much a delight as the sweets they hold. Here are four virtually guaranteed to knock your socks off, from the second you walk in the door.
Hugo & Victor: When French Champion pastry chef Hugues Pouget left his role as head pâtissier of the Michelin three star Guy Savoy, he took a little time to travel the world and began collaborating with his childhood friend, Sylvain Blanc, to open the ultra-luxe Hugo & Victor (top photo). Looking like Dior and Cartier fused into one and decided to just sell pastries, it’s home to some of the most innovative sweets around. Ironically, Monsieur Pouget generally uses about 1/3 the sugar others employ, so look forward to sampling elegantly complicated studies on flavor. Top Picks: Hugo Vanille, Earl Grey Chocolate Tarte, Hugo Passion, Victor Verveine (Réligieuse), mango macarons, blueberry macarons, combawa lime macarons, vanilla macarons.
Jacques Genin: After leaving his starring role at La Maison du Chocolat, Jacques Genin built an empire on caramels and chocolates, supplying many of the most famous hotels, restaurants and cafés of Europe – all from a private facility in Paris. Then, in 2008, he opened his sprawling pâtisserie/chocolaterie/confiserie/café in the Marais. No one denies that he has mastered the caramel; you have never had anything close . . . ever. His chocolates are legendary, arguably better than those of Patrick Roger, Michel Chaudun and other greats. His pâtes de fruits are incomprehensibly amazing. And his pastry selection is a lineup of some of the most exquisitely crafted French classics. Top Picks: chocolate éclair, lemon tarte, baba au rhum, caramel éclair, mango-passion caramels, macadamia caramels, ginger caramels, lemon caramels, apricot pâte de fruit, pineapple pâte de fruit, tonka chocolate, réglisse (licorice) chocolate, basil chocolate, dill chocolate.
Un Dimanche à Paris: Heir to the famed French chocolate dynasty of his father Michel, Pierre Cluizel had a vision for an all-chocolate concept store, pastry shop, restaurant, bar, and hot chocolate lounge. He spared no expense bringing it to life. Tucked down a corridor off the popular Boulevard St. Germain, and spanning almost half a city block, Un Dimanche à Paris is two floors of chocolate-centric opulence. Enter the main boutique and get ready to be blown away. The ceiling has been carved to look like the tropical canopy that shades the cacao trees, and you can watch the chefs toil-away all day long in their glass-enclosed kitchen. Top Picks: Hot chocolate (available for 2 euros in the main boutique), Choux Pistache, Croustillant au Grué de Cacao, coquelicot (poppy flower) macarons, candied clementines.
La Pâtisserie des Rêves: French hotelier, Thierry Teyssier, teamed up with world champion pastry chef Philippe Conticini to bring the world of 23rd century pastry to us a couple hundred years earlier than expected. Counterweighted glass bell jars, suspended from the ceiling, showcase a sublime array of treats – from a Venezuelan chocolate-sheathed éclair to a space-age tarte tatin and an impossibly beautiful Saint-Honoré. Even their selection of humble viennoiserie (breakfast pastries) will leave you in awe. Top Picks: Grand Cru, mango tarte, Saint-Honoré, Cylan, chausson aux pommes, brioche.
Adam Wayda is an American gourmand with “a bit” of a sweet tooth. Spending half of each year in Paris, he chronicles Parisian pastry and the great chefs behind it on his site ParisPatisseries.com, which poses the very real risk of making your computer’s monitor ooze with crème pâtissiere.
The Art of the Scent at Jovoy Paris
Story by Liz Cohen
Paris is a city of smells. Freshly baked bread, rotisserie chicken outside of every boucherie, parks damp from rain – these are just a few smells that come to mind when I think of Paris. And of course Paris is a city of art, no list required. It shouldn’t be a surprise, therefore, that the art of smells – perfume – has its home in Paris as well. (more…)
Sweet Treat: An Interview with Adam of Paris Pâtisseries
Interview by Linda Donahue. Photos by Adam Weyda.
There’s absolutely no doubt that Paris is a dream for those with a sweet tooth. The incontrovertible evidence: you can’t walk down a single rue in the French capital without passing at least two patisseries or chocolate shops. Even after countless and extended stays in the city, I still find myself stopping to ogle the colorful displays of cakes, tartlets, eclairs, fondants, and meringues in shop windows. In fact, if I had a euro for every time I was lured into a patisserie to purchase a delectable dessert that caught my eye, I could probably buy my own patisserie. (more…)
November Events in Paris
Paris in November just may be the most romantic time of the year. The foliage is turning various shades of red and orange, and what doesn’t still cling to tree branches carpets the city’s sidewalks and jardins. The chill in the air is the perfect justification to order up a cup of vin chaud. Festive holiday lights along the Champs Élysée and the various rues and avenues of the city make the early arrival of darkness worth welcoming. And the creative holiday windows of the shops and grands magasins become crowd-pleasing events. (more…)
Recipes from Paris: Le Saint Honoré
By Yetunde Oshodi
Today we have a recipe for a very tasty pastry—Le Saint Honoré. Named after the the French patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs (of course the French would have a saint for bakers and pastry chefs), the Le Saint Honoré is a classic French puff pastry dessert that’s baked and dipped in caramelized sugar. Yum! (more…)
One Day in Paris on a Shoestring Budget
Story by Linda Donahue
It’s common knowledge that Paris can be a pretty expensive city to visit—especially with today’s exchange rates. But you don’t have to spend a small fortune to get the most out of the French capital. There are plenty of ways to stretch your euros that will make you feel like you got so much more than your money’s worth. (more…)
Shopping in Paris: The Grands Magasins
By Sophie Delon
Those who love to shop love to shop in Paris. There are people who even plan their trips to the French capital around shopping. And while there’s no such thing as too many shops, Paris can overwhelm those who arrive without a strategy in place. There are boutiques dedicated to every whim scattered throughout the 20 arrondissements of the city, not to mention markets, malls and the grands magasins. (more…)
Paris Dining Etiquette: Be Their Guest
Story by Kalin Beck
I have always tried to be a good guest. Consideration was one of the virtues instilled in me by my parents from childhood. At home in the U.S., I’ve long since nailed the rules of etiquette when invited into a person’s home. Arrive promptly. Always bring a bottle of wine. No elbows on the table. Offer to help clear the table and do the dishes. (more…)
Shopping Heaven in Paris
Story by Richard Nahem, Eye Prefer Paris Correspondent
Back in the days before I moved to Paris, I used to visit the French capital and seek out shops that offered things only sold in Paris or France. When I got home, my friends would inevitably compliment me and ask, “Where did you get that fabulous shirt/pair of shoes/belt?” And I would glowingly reply, “Paris, of course.” I particularly remember buying a handsome pair of Goyard tanned leather shoes in the early 90s, long before Goyard became so popular and was sold only in France. (more…)
Les Nuits Capitales: A Week of Live Music in Paris
Interview edited by Sophie Delon
This fall, Paris nightlife will once again be the focus of Les Nuits Capitales. This week-long celebration of Paris’ clubs and live music scene invites Parisians and visitors alike to discover – or for some, rediscover – the vibrant after dark culture of the French capital. More than 60 venues around the city are participating, with concerts, musical cruises and other special events. (more…)
Paris Seen Through the Eyes of an Expat Artist
Interview by Richard Nahem, Eye Prefer Paris Correspondent. Photos by Takako.
Sarah Skinner has led a full and interesting life for someone in their early 30s. The native of Washington State has overcome more than her fair share of challenges. But instead of holding her back, the early obstacles she encountered gave her a unique perspective on the world, which she’s interpreted and shared with a variety of audiences. After spending time as an actress and performer, she moved behind the camera to become a sought-after photographer. Now living in Paris with her French beau, Sarah shares her viewpoint in this fascinating interview with Richard Nahem. (more…)
October Events in Paris: Salon du Chocolat (& more)
By Sophie Delon
The world’s largest chocolate show is back in Paris this month, turning the French capital into a mecca for those people with a passion for all things chocolate. And they have lots of reasons to get excited, with more than 200 chocolate makers and pastry chefs on hand to tantalize and tempt with their creations. This year’s theme is centered around pastry making, with plenty of temptations to enjoy and sample. (more…)
Rue du Commerce: A Hidden Shopping Treasure in Paris
Story by Laura Thayer
When you’re looking for the best hidden shopping streets in Paris, one of the places you’re unlikely to start your search is just a few blocks from the Eiffel Tower. Yet, just across the Champ de Mars gardens on the border of the 7th and 15th arrondissement, is a charming neighborhood where you’ll find the narrow rue du Commerce. The street is chock full of boutiques for a truly Parisian shopping experience—sans the traffic and tourists. (more…)
Paris Eats Up Lola’s Cookies
Interview by Linda Donahue
In a city known for its delectable patisseries, where shelves are lines with all manner of gateaux, éclairs, Religieuses, Millefeuille and tartes, Parisians have begun to develop a taste for American baked goods. First, the cupcake invaded the French capital, and now the beloved American cookie is finding its way into the hearts (and stomachs) of Parisians. And two American expats have been leading the charge. (more…)
French Lessons: A Q & A with Author Ellen Sussman
Interview by Linda Donahue
Three Americans – an expat mom with two small children, a bereaved French teacher and the husband of a film star – spend a day traipsing through Paris with their French tutors.The lessons they learn, however, have little to do with language and everything to do with life and love. Such is the premise of Ellen Sussman’s second novel, French Lessons. (more…)
Dining in Paris 101: Brasseries, Bistros and Cafés
Story by Richard Nahem, Eye Prefer Paris Correspondent
You can’t turn a corner in Paris without stumbling upon one of the city’s multitude of eating establishments. Brasseries, bistros, cafés – and even the ubiquitous salon de thé – make dining choices more abundant and diverse. Of course, there’s no small amount of confusion among visitors as to the differences between these establishments. So, to make it simple, here are a few ways to understand what makes each type of eatery unique.
Brasserie
A brasserie is a restaurant that serves the same menu all day, sometimes with a few specials/plat du Jour. The cuisine is classic French with dishes like charcuterie, plats de mer, steak tartare, onion soup, and confit de canard. Brasserie also means brewery and many of them serve a good selection of beer on tap. Some well known Parisian brasseries include Brasserie Lipp, Bofinger, Vaudeville, and La Coupole.
Bistro/Bistrot
A bistro is a small, informal, neighborhood restaurant with simple food, usually with a single owner or chef-owned. They are open at set times, approximately from 12PM to 2 or 2:30PM for lunch and 7:30PM to 10:30 or 11PM for dinner and are, most of the time, closed either Sunday or Monday (or both). Legend has it that the name bistro came about when, in 1812, Russian soldiers at a restaurant in Montmartre on Place du Tertre were upset that their food was too slow in coming, so they yelled “Bistrot! Bistrot!”, which means quickly in Russian. Some of my favorite bistros are Le Reminet, Chez Janou, L’ Atelier d’Antan, and Chez Dumonet.
Café
The most common eating establishment, the café focuses more on beverages like coffee, tea, wine and beer, and many now offer cocktails and Happy Hour. Cafés are open all day and night serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, with the same menu served throughout the day – casual fare like sandwiches, croques, omelets and salads. Most cafés have outdoor terraces all year round, with heat lamps to keep things cozy in winter. Some classic cafés include Café de Fleur, Café de la Paix, Les Deux Magots, and Le Fouquet’s.
Salon de Thé
More informal than a café, a salon de thé specializes in cakes and pastries along with tea and and coffee.They’re usually open morning to early evening, and sometimes serve light lunches and small dishes. Popular salon de thés include Ladurée, Carette, Angelina, Mariage Frères and, one of my personal favorites, Comme a la Maison.
All photographs from Chez Janou.
Richard Nahem is a native New Yorker who now lives in Paris. A successful New York City event planner and producer of cultural events, he has worked with many celebrities including Sarah Jessica Parker, Whitney Houston, and Joan Rivers. After a teenage trip to Paris made him an instant Francophile, he visited the city frequently until he made it his home (in 2005). With 25 years of rave reviews from friends and colleagues, Richard decided to take his own private tours of “his” Paris public. His goal for Eye Prefer Paris Tours is to provide fun, adventurous, and exciting tours of Paris for the independent-spirited traveler.
Cupcake Camp Returns to Paris
Story and photos contributed by Cat Beurnier
Following the success of Cupcake Camp Paris last summer, the event returns to the City of Light to recapture the hearts and stomachs of its growing legion of fans. Cupcake fans of all ages, Parisians, expats, and bakers of all levels will gather at Le Comptoir Général, along the Canal St-Martin for the second annual Cupcake Camp Paris. Attendees will taste, share, and judge (for those who want to participate in the contests) their home-made cupcakes in a friendly and festive atmosphere. There will also be live music and a raffle with an amazing variety of prizes. (more…)
Where to Eat in Paris without Breaking the Bank
Story by Lela Lake
The delectable odors wafting down Paris streets can lure unwary travelers into sumptuous meals that quickly devour your vacation budget. The trick is to focus on a dining destination you know will satisfy your most gluttonous desires without breaking the bank. (more…)
Reflections on Change: 10 Years Since 9/11
Ten years ago today, I got on an airplane to fly to Pittsburgh from Miami for my cousin’s wedding—just a month after returning from a trip to Paris and Italy. Because I was just going for just the weekend, I packed an overnight bag, stuffing it with clothing and toiletries, including my big bottles of shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste and moisturizers. Nobody stopped me as I went through security to see if all my liquids fit into a quart-sized plastic bag. I didn’t have to remove my shoes or take off the sweater I was wearing as I stepped through the metal detector. It’s amazing how everything changed only three days later. (more…)
