Métro
It may appear to be overwhelming, but the Métro is really easy to use. This underground rail system offers 16 lines (lignes) that run every day – including public holidays – from around 6:00am to 12:30am (2:15am on Friday and Saturday nights). There are usually only a few minutes between trains, so if you can’t get through the doors in time, fear not., another train isn’t far behind. Scheduled timetables for the first and last trains are posted in each station on the center sign. (more…)
Getting into Paris: By Air
Paris is served by three international airports:
Charles de Gaulle International Airport http://www.paris-cdg.com/ (airport code CDG; also known as Roissy) is located to the northeast of the city, and serves as one of Europe’s main hubs. It’s big, it’s confusing and it’s French, so give yourself plenty of time for transfers. There are three terminals: Terminal 1, Terminal 2 (which is humongous and subdivided into 2A through 2F), and Terminal 3. Chances are that you’ll come into Terminal 2 (whether you’re flying in from the U.S. or another European city. But if you have to connect to another flight, you may find that getting from one point to another in Terminal 2…well, frustrating. The free CDGVAL shuttle train connects the terminals together.
Orly International Airport http://www.aeroportsdeparis.fr/Adp/en-GB/Passagers/ (airport code ORY), is found to the southwest of the city, and is closer than Charles de Gaulle/Roissy. That said, if you’re flying in from an international destination, chances are you won’t be flying into Orly. It’s now used mainly by Air France for national lines, and only a few international carriers in Europe.
Beauvais http://www.aeroportbeauvais.com/index.php?lang=eng (airport code BVA) is a smaller regional airport that’s being used by some of Europe’s low-cost carriers, including RyanAir.
Getting into Paris from the airports:
Taxi:
This is definitely not the fastest or cheapest way to get into Paris, but if you’re a first time visitor or have burdensome baggage (and we don’t mean the emotional type), a taxi is your best bet. On a good day, the trip will take you about 45 minutes and cost somewhere in the neighborhood of 55 euros, but keep in mind that if you’re trying to get in during rush hour, you’ll sit in traffic for up to an hour. Taxis are available at visibly marked queues outside each terminal. Follow the signs from baggage claim (or throughout the terminal) the queues. You’ll find plenty of “taxi” offers inside the terminal. Don’t do it. You’ll seriously be taken for a ride. Another key thing to keep in mind: most taxi drivers don’t speak much English (or at least claim not to), so it might be a good idea to have the address of your destination written clearly on a piece of paper and give it to the driver.
Shuttle Service:
There are a few companies that offer shuttle services between the airports and Paris. Airport Shuttle http://www.airport-shuttle.com charges 27 euros a person (19.90 euros per person for two or three people traveling together). Airport Connection http://www.airport-connection.com offers similar rates, as does Shuttle Paris http://www.shuttle-paris.com. Please keep in mind that all shuttles need to be booked ahead of time.
RER-B has stations in T1 and T2. Trains into Paris (specifically to Châtelet-Les Halles) leave every 15 minutes, cost €8,50 each and take around 40 minutes. From there, you can take the Metro to your destination. (This option works best if you’re already familiar with Paris, and don’t have a lot of luggage.
The Roissybus service connects CDG terminals directly to Opéra Garnier in central Paris, but keep in mind that you’ll have to deal with traffic getting in, so your trip could take up to 60-90 minutes, even on a good day.
Orly is only about forty minutes from Paris via the OrlyBus, which takes you to Métro/RER Denfert-Rochereau; the price is only €6, with departures every 15 minutes
In addition to public transportation, Air France operates shuttles between Charles de Gaulle and Paris (€10 - €12), Orly and Paris (€7.5) and between the two airports (€15). Please note that if you have connecting Air France flights that land and depart from different airports, you still need to claim your luggage after landing, catch either the Air France shuttle or a taxi to the other airport and check-in again. This could take up to 2 hours, particularly if traffic is at its worse. Check with Air France (http://www.airfrance.us) for specific information.
When to visit
I love Paris in the springtime. I love Paris in the fall. I love Paris is the summer, when it sizzles. I love Paris in the winter, when it drizzles.
So wrote Cole Porter back in 1953, but it’s pretty clear that sentiment has been around for hundreds of years. Paris has charms that transcend seasonality, so the question of “What’s the best time to visit” is really a personal preference.
If you’re looking for longer days, come in late spring or summer. If you’re looking for shorter lines, winter is your season. And don’t really go by Mr. Porter’s lyrics in trying to time your visit to the weather. Truth be told, it rains year round in Paris, and it doesn’t typically get sizzling hot during the summer. But it sure is a pretty song. Isn’t it?
Spring
Spring is when the color comes back to Paris. Trees flower, foliage grows lush, and people begin spending more time in the parks and gardens of this reawakened city as the days grow longer. April is the month with the lowest average rainfall, so you might have to fight for a place to sit on the benches.
Average temperatures:
Low Temps: 4°C / 39°F
High Temps: 20°C / 68°F
Summer
When summer arrives in Paris, it’s time to head to the beach. What? Paris doesn’t have a beach, you say. Oh, dear innocent traveler, that’s the magic of this city. The banks of the River Seine are transformed into one grand plage (that’s French for “beach”) in the summer, and you’ll find the city’s residents taking full advantage of it. In August, many of the locals close up shop and head to their vacation homes. But fear not, you’ll still find plenty of places still open and eager to greet visitors.
Average temperatures:
Low Temps: 13°C / 55°F
High Temps: 24°C / 75°F
Autumn
The days may be getting shorter, but the colors of the city really come alive in the fall. Even in November, you’ll find trees still thick with foliage – only the leaves have transformed into the fieriest of reds and yellows. It’s truly magnificent, complemented by an abundance of cultural activities. September still holds on to the temperatures of summer, but by October, you’ll need to start bundling up.
Average temperatures:
Low Temps: 5°C / 41°F
High Temps: 21°C / 70°F
Winter
There’s really nothing quite like winter in Paris. You’ll find it far less crowded by tourists, which is a shame because, in many ways, Paris is at its most beautiful in winter. By the end of November, the Champs Elysees – and all of Paris’ grand boulevards – are alit with all the dressings of Christmas. A steaming cup of chocolate chaud awaits in a warm café. It’s trés romantique.
Average temperatures:
Low Temps: 1°C / 33°F
High Temps: 7°C / 44°F
Cycle Your Way Across Paris
A funny thing happened during the last transportation strike in Paris. Without the ability to travel across the city by Métro or bus, people took to bicycles to get around.
Riding a bike anywhere in Paris is safer for even the moderately experienced cyclist than almost anywhere in the United States. The French are very aware of the presence of cyclists, even reverent of them.
And in July 2007, Paris introduced Velib – a system of 10,000 bicycles available for rental at 750 automated stations around the city. The system is expected to grow to 20,000 bikes and 1,450 automated stations.
You’ll need to get a subscription to this service for 1 day, at a cost of 1€, or 7 days for just 5€. With your subscription, the bike rental is free for the first half hour of each individual trip (or from when you release the bike from one station and return it to the next). From there, an hour’s rental cost’s 1€, 90 minutes costs 3€, 2 hours costs 7€, and longer times obviously cost more. But the beauty about this system is that you really don’t need more than 30 minutes with the bike. Just return it once you get to your destination…and then hire another bike when you’re ready for the next leg of your voyage. You’ll need either a credit card or a Navigo pass to sign up for the program.
Paris Batobus: On the Seine
During one of the transportation strikes in Paris during the last few years, I found myself looking for a way to get from my hotel near the Eiffel Tower to the Marais. The Metro wasn’t running. Buses were scarce and crowded. And finding a taxi? Forget about it. While one of my favorite things to do in Paris is to walk, the idea of shlepping all the way to the Marais and back again didn’t exactly fill my heart with joy. (more…)
Getting into Paris: By Train
Paris is very well connected to the rest of Europe by train. There are six stations serving Paris:
Gare du Nord, (10th), Métro: Gare du Nord - TGV trains to and from Belgium, the Netherlands, and Cologne, Germany (Thalys), and the United Kingdom (Eurostar) and regular trains from Northern Europe.
Gare d’Austerlitz, (13th), Métro: Gare d’Austerlitz - regular trains to and from the center and southwest of France (Orléans, Limoges, Toulouse the long way), Spain and Portugal and arrival of majority of the night trains.
Gare de l’Est, (10th), Métro: Gare de l’Est - ICE/TGV to and from Saarbrücken, Frankfurt, and Stuttgart, Germany.
Gare de Lyon, (12th), Métro: Gare de Lyon - regular and TGV trains to and from Southern and eastern France: French Alps, Marseille, Lyon, Dijon, Switzerland: Geneva, Lausanne and Italy.
Gare St Lazare, (8th) Métro: St-Lazare - trains to and from Basse-Normandie, Haute-Normandie
Gare Montparnasse, (15th), Métro: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe - TGV and regular trains to and from the west and south-west of France (Brest, Rennes, Nantes, Bordeaux, Toulouse the fastest way and Spain)
The SNCF http://www.sncf.com/indexe.htm (French national railway authority) operates practically all trains within France (excluding the Eurostar to London and the Thalys to Brussels) and onward to the Netherlands and Germany. All SNCF, Eurostar and Thalys tickets can be bought in railway stations, city offices and travel agencies (no surcharge). The SNCF website is also very convenient to book and buy tickets up to two months in advance. In fact, you’ll likely find significant discounts if you book early. To get the best rates, book at least four weeks ahead. And here’s a big tip: round trip tickets (aller-retour) with a stay over Saturday night can be cheaper than a single one-way ticket (aller simple). A very limited selection of last minute trips are published on the SNCF website every Tuesday, with discounts of more than 50%.
There are a number of different types of high speed and normal trains:
TER Regional trains and normal day or night trains (no special name) operate to and from most cities in France and are usually your best bet for destinations all over France. These are the trains you’ll find yourself on if you have a Eurail pass, and don’t want to pay extra for reservations.
TGV - the world-famous French high-speed trains (Trains à Grande Vitesse) run several times a day to the Southeast Nice(5-6h), Marseille (3h) and Avignon (2.5 h), the East Geneva (3h) or Lausanne, Switzerland and Dijon (1h15) , the Southwest Bordeaux (3h), the West Rennes (3h) and the North Lille (less than 1h). Eurostar to London (2h15) and Thalys to Brussels (1h20) use almost identical trains.
Thalys - a high-speed train service running daily to/from the Netherlands and Belgium - it can be a bit expensive compared to normal trains
Intercity Intercity trains leave for all parts of Europe, including overnight trains to San Sebastian in Spain, Porto and Lisbon in Portugal.
Eurostar - the Eurostar service connects Paris with London directly and Brussels indirectly, as well many other destinations indirectly through the various west European rail services. Travel time between Paris and London St Pancras International currently averages at 2 hours 15 minutes, following the opening of a new rail link in late 2007.
Paris Taxi
Taxis in Paris are hard to come by, and it isn’t easy to just waive one down. You’ll be able to find one at special taxi stations throughout the city but, if you know you need to get somewhere by a certain time, it’s easier (and smarter) to have your hotel arrange a taxi for you.
By day, it’s easier – and faster – to walk or use the Métro, but come nighttime, when traffic is light, taxis aren’t all that expensive.
To hire a taxi, watch the sign on the roof:
• If the white sign is lit, the cab is on duty & available,
• If the white sign is off and a colored light is lit under it (blue, orange), it has a passenger
• If the white sign is off and no colored light is on, the taxi’s off duty.
Taxi stations are usually near train stations, big hotels, hospitals, and large crossings. When a taxi stops, he might roll down his window and expect you to tell where you need to go. Don’t be surprised if they tell you they can’t go there, using “end of shift” as an excuse. And by law, taxes don’t allow passengers to sit in the front seat.
Also keep in mind that there’s a €5.50 minimum on all taxi rides (this is a city law), so if you’re taking just a short ride, you may end up paying more than is on the meter.
Handy Tip #1:
The tip is included in the price of your fare, but if you’re particularly satisfied with the service, you can give the driver a little extra (10% or round up). It’s not expect, though. Also note that there’s an additional cost added for suitcases.
Handy Tip #2:
It’s a good idea to have the address and arrondissement number written down, since many taxi drivers claim not to speak English.
Getting into Paris: By Bus & Auto
By Bus:
Eurolines http://www.eurolines.com is a transeuropean bus company that offers trips to Paris.
By Automobile:
Several autoroutes link Paris with the rest of France: A1 and A3 to the north, A5 and A6 to the south, A4 to the east and A13 and A10 to the west. You’ll find online visual traffic information at http://www.sytadin.equipement.gouv.fr/.
The multi-lane highway around Paris, called the Périphérique, is probably preferable to driving through the center. Another beltway nearing completion La Francilienne loops around Paris about 10 km further out from the Périphérique.
Once you’re inside the Paris city center, you should probably think about leaving your car in a parking lot or garage because the roads can be confusing (even to a native), heavily trafficked and, well, frankly, unforgiving.
Getting Around Paris by Bus
Sometimes, it’s just easier to take the bus in Paris – or just more interesting, letting you see more of the city and helping you get your bearings. Paris’ bus system is completely tourist-friendly, and uses the same single-ride tickets and Carte Orange as the Métro. Electronic displays inside each bus tell riders the current position and which stops remain, which helps to eliminate any confusion.
Since the Métro shuts down just past midnight (or 2:15 for weekends), the Noctilien runs through the night, with hourly routes beginning at Chatelet. Tickets cost €2.70.
Show Me the Money (Currency)
You probably know that Paris (like the rest of France) operates on the Euro. You likely also know that, right now, the Euro is slamming the dollar, so there really is no such thing as a bargain in Paris anymore. (We miss those days when the Franc was king, but the dollar was Emperor, and you’d be a fool not to shop your little hearts out while in Paris.)
American credit cards are widely accepted in Paris, but you will need cash, pretty much from the moment you arrive. If you’re taking a taxi into town from the airport, you need to know that most taxis don’t take credit cards (meaning that some do).
Parisien Salon advises checking with your bank (or banks) to see what they charge on foreign transactions. We’ve found that the fee charged by our bank (Washington Mutual) is far less than any exchange fees we’ll pay at Bureaus de Change or French banks – both for cash and credit card transactions.
You’ll find ATM machines virtually everywhere in Paris – including in airport terminals. Should you need the services of a bank in Paris, please note that they’re open from 9:00am to 5:00pm weekdays only.
What the VAT?
You see signs for it everywhere, but you’re not quite sure what a VAT is. Well, you’re not going to get a full answer here. Frankly, unless you happen to be an economist, the answer is way too complicated. VAT – or Value Added Tax – isn’t a sales tax, per se, but when you’re buying something with a 19.6% tax added on to the total price, who cares. (more…)
Driving in Paris
Here’s our advice when it comes to renting a car or driving one in Paris: don’t bother. Traffic can be a nightmare, it’s hard to find parking, and roads can be confusing. If you plan on visiting sights outside of Paris, we advise taking a train to the suburbs and rent a car from there.
That said, you’ll find all the major American car rental companies in Paris (like Hertz and Avis), as well as European-based companies. Keep in mind that you’re liable for the entire value of the car you rent, so you may want to consider purchasing a collision damage waiver (CDW) supplement that covers most of the car (except for the undercarriage, roof, tires and windshield). The CDW costs anywhere from $10 to $25 a day, adding up to about 25 percent of the car rental cost. You can also purchase the CDW through Travel Guard at a more reasonable rate of $7 a day, and most European car rental companies will honor it. Visit www.travelguard.com for more information.
You’ll find that the age restrictions for renting a car in Europe are pretty much the same as they are in the U.S., meaning anyone between the ages of 25 and 75 shouldn’t have any problems.
If you plan a one way driving trip through Europe, it’ll cost you anywhere in the neighborhood of $200 to rent your car in one country and drop it off in another .
Handy Tip:
Your American driver’s license is all you need when renting a car in most European countries. If you’re planning on crossing borders, you may consider getting an International Driver’s License, particularly if you plan to drive through Spain, Portugal, Germany, Austria, Italy, Greece or Eastern Europe. You can get one from AAA (www.aaa.com).
Paris a Pied (On Foot)
Paris is a city of icons. Of grand landmarks. But between all of those places teeming with camera-toting tourists are the real treasures of Paris. Hidden fountains. Small neighborhood parks. Cobbled streets lined by charming cafés. Gargoyles and gilded footbridges. The thing is, you could easily miss these things if you embark on “kamikaze sightseeing” – zooming from one site to the next as if you were in a race for time.
If you slow down and use your feet, you’ll experience the real Paris. Become a flâneur – an observer who leisurely wander the streets, taking joy in even the smallest moments you discover. Revel in the sensations – the sounds, the smells – of places off the beaten track.
Strolling is one of the great pleasures of visiting the City of Light, and though you might think it an overwhelming though, Paris is actually a very compact city. And you don’t have to walk the entire city at once. If you have the time, spend a day exploring one arrondissiment by foot. And if you don’t have the time, why not stroll your way from one landmark to the next. After all, most of these sites are located close to the Seine, so getting from the Eiffel Tower to the Arch de Triomphe to the Louvre isn’t a monumental undertaking. And you’ll get to experience the Grand Palais, the Petit Palais, the Champs Elysees, Place de Concorde and Tuileries along the way.
To Tip or Not to Tip
Battles amongst American visitors to Paris have broken out over this question. After all, in the U.S., it’s customary to leave a 15 to 20% tip for your waiter or waitress after eating at a restaurant. That’s because these hard-working folks earn their living from their tips, since their salaries fall below the minimum wage (and mostly go to cover taxes). In Paris (as in most of Europe), waiters and waitress earn a fare wage. And a service charge is typically (and legally) added to your bill at restaurants, bars, cafés, etc. That said, it’s good manners to leave an additional 2 or 3% for your server, to show your appreciation.
What about taxis, you ask? You can tip up to 15% extra for them, but it’s not expected. And at the hotel, you should leave the housekeeping staff a Euro or two for each day of your stay.
Check your pockets or someone else will
What do tourists do when in Paris? They congregate in popular tourist spots, like the Eiffel Tower, the airport or train stations. What do thieves and scammers do? They go where the tourists are. (more…)
Carte Musée
The Paris Museum and Monument Pass – otherwise known as the Carte Musée – is like a VIP pass for visitors, because you don’t have to wait in lines if you have one. It’s also a good value if you plan on visiting a bunch of museums during your stay, since there are more than 60 participating museums. For a one day pass, the cost is 18€. Three consecutive days is 36€, while a five consecutive day pass is 54€. You can purchase passes at the main Métro stations, fnac shops, participating museums and Office de Tourisme.
Insider’s Tip:
Museums offer free admissions on the first Sunday of each month. On other Sundays, admission fees are reduced at most museums and major monuments. The Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, while most other museums are closed on Mondays.
Theater Tickets
You can purchase theatre tickets for half price at Kiosque Theatre located at place de la Madeleine in the 8th, from Tuesday to Saturday, 12:30pm to 7:45pm, and on Sunday from 12:30pm to 3:45pm. Credit cards aren’t accepted – cash only.
Using the Phone
Want to call home? Don’t even think of picking up that hotel room phone, because the price of your call just might end up costing more that the room rate. And unless you’ve worked out an extraordinary deal with your cell phone carrier back home, you might have to take out a home equity loan to pay the bill.
Instead, purchase a telecarte – a plastic phonecard sold at post offices and newsstands. To call the U.S. from Paris, dial 00+1+area code+phone number.
Another alternative, and certainly a more mobile one, is to buy or rent a cell phone in Paris. Still, this can be fairly costly. We discovered Call in Europe , a company that offers cell phones with French SIM cards for as little as $19, with a postpaid plan that charges you only for calls you made or received during your visit. There’s no monthly fees, no commitments, and calls to the U.S. (and to local numbers) are only 39 cents a minute. Compare that to the $1.99/minute charged by carriers like AT&T. (We did, and we were very happy!) Find out more at www.callineurope.com, or call them at 877-730-5305.
