Côté 9ème
5, rue Henri Monnier
75009 Paris
Phone: 01.45.26.26.30
Metro Station: Saint-Georges (Line 12) or Pigalle (Lines 2 and 12)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri Noon - 2:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. Sat 6:30 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
Located across from place Gustave Toudouze, the attractive purple awning and the wide, sparkling-clean windows of this restaurant catch the eye of passersby making their way up rue Henri Monnier. One cannot help but pause in front of the establishment to peruse its menu (posted on a chalkboard) to see if appealing dishes are served there. And indeed there are! It was our pleasure to dine at Côté 9ème on a recent Friday evening to determine whether the food was as appetizing as the menu descriptions made it sound.
As we were the first customers to enter, we were seated at a table that gave us a splendid view of the square across the street. During the course of the evening, we could observe children playing tag and hide-and-seek there, and adults returning their bicycles to the Vélib’ parking stand. The bustle of activity in the square provided delightful distraction while we dined.
Upon my inquiry, the waiter told me that the Potage du jour was vegetable and that I could have it served cold or hot. As the evening air was warm, I decided to try it cold. It was a good choice! The thick soup, prepared as a coarse purée and flavored with olive oil, arrived in a terrine. It was delicious!
My partner opted for the Fromage frais aux olives sur cake au chèvre. She was served a slice of cake, reminiscent of a pound cake, punctuated with chunks of goat cheese. It was tangy and tasty, if a bit dry. On her plate were also two generous dollops of fromage frais sprinkled with chopped chives and finely chopped black olives. A small mixed-green salad garnished the dish.
The main course was equally tasty. I ordered the Saint Jacques, gambas et rascasse à la citronnelle, and was served a wide, shallow bowl containing a vegetable broth in which floated scallops, giant prawns, and scorpion fish. Accompanying the seafood were potatoes, carrots, snow peas, and a slice of lemon. This was a wonderfully robust and flavorsome meal.
My parner was served Navarin d’agneau, petits pois printaniers, a savory lamb stew with an accompaniment of small peas, snow peas, baby carrots, pearl onions, and an occasional wilted lettuce leaf. The dish was so copious that she could not finish it.
To accompany our meal, we ordered a Languedoc Château Le Thou 2006 à la ficelle, which means that you pay for the amount of wine that you consume from the bottle that is placed in front of you. The garnet-colored wine was slightly tannic, peppery, and sharp, turning softer as the wine aerated.
Thickly sliced, fresh baguette was served alongside in a basket.
For the dessert course, there were eight types to choose from, plus a cheese plate, making our decision difficult. I finally voted for the Fondant aux marrons, glace marron, because I have never seen this on other menus. I received a small, round cake whose hot, chestnut-cream center immediately flowed out when I pierced the top. This, plus the chestnut ice cream served on the side, was a special treat!
My partner, who has determined to try rum baba wherever it is offered, selected the Baba au rhum et au thym. Even before he brought out the baba, the waiter placed a bottle of Karukera rum from Guadeloupe on the table. This is a signal that the customer may liberally sprinkle the baba with as much rum as desired! A little bit also ended up in her empty water glass, providing her with a small digestif following the dessert.
The bill for two, including two apéritifs, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, a ficelle of wine, and an espresso, came to 89€.
The waiter, whom we imagine is also the proprietor of the restaurant, was friendly and helpful. After serving the dessert he offered to take a picture of us with our camera.
Would we return here again? Yes, indeed! We left the restaurant quite pleased with ourselves for having “discovered” and dined in this charming establishment.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
L’Entredgeu
83, rue Laugier
75017 Paris
Phone: 01.40.54.97.24
Metro Station: Porte de Champerret (Line 3)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues to Sat Noon - 2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. (11:30 p.m. Fri and Sat)
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
Walls the color of maize, a black-and-white checkerboard tile floor, red vinyl benches against the walls, ceiling fans, wooden tables, mirrors displaying wine options written in colorful marking pen—all of this added up to a bistrot that our dining companion described as “cozy.”
And the food was great, too!
For the starter, I ordered Carpaccio de tête de veau, sauce ravigotte. Tête de veau is a jellied meat preparation made from the head of a calf; weak-hearted diners should abstain! The waiter brought a plate containing a small, mixed-green salad atop a serving of very thin slices of calf’s head that had been generously garnished in ravigotte sauce. The sauce was prepared with chopped gherkins, giving crunchy texture to an otherwise gelatinous dish.
My partner ordered the Terrine de campagne, and received a cutting board supporting a generous slice of country-style terrine that she described as spicy and not overly fatty. The terrine was served with toasted country bread and a ramekin containing cauliflower and green and red peppers, all marinated in vinegar.
Pursuing the country-style food theme, I ordered Cuisse de lapin fondante et petits légumes de saison. The rabbit thigh had been stewed, and was served atop a bed of tender spring vegetables, peas, string beans, onions, green peppers, carrots, and chanterelle mushrooms, all in a shallow pond of gravy. The meat was so tender that it fell off the bone, as signified by the word fondante in the name of the dish. Hearty and delicious!
For her main course, my partner ordered Quasi de veau, petits légumes de saison et champignons. She was served two thickly cut portions of veal, the interior of which had been cooked to just slightly pink. The slices rested on a bed of green peas, green beans, parsnips, and chanterelle and meadow mushrooms. A light-brown gravy added savor to the dish.
To accompany our meal, we ordered a half-bottle of Morgon Marcel Lapierre 2008, a medium-bodied red with soft tannins.
Thickly-sliced country bread with a crunchy crust was served alongside in a basket.
When the dessert menu was presented, I saw my chance to try something different. I placed my order for theFeuilleté caramelisée, pommes confites, rhubarbe et glace caramel. I was not at all disappointed to receive a crispymillefeuille filled with apple and rhubarb compote, garnished with a squiggle of caramel sauce, and served with a scoop of caramel ice cream. The dessert was not overly sweet, and was, in a word, delightful!
My partner opted for the Sablé Breton, crème mascarpone et fraise gariguette. And here came the surprise! She was served a verrine (a squat glass) containing layered ingredients. The bottom layer consisted of shortbread topped with mascarpone. On top of this was a layer of chopped gariguette strawberries and an ultra-thin tuile (butter cookie), all sprinkled with powdered sugar and garnished with a mint leaf. What a sweet treat!
The bill for two, including two three-course, fixed-price menus at 32€, a half-bottle of Morgon, and an espresso, came to 87.50€.
After 8:00 p.m., the restaurant filled up quickly with customers. The wait staff hurried about, fulfilling their duties admirably. Our waitress readily answered our questions about the food.
For travelers seeking an authentic “French experience,” L’Entredgue is the place to dine!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Bistrot de l’Oulette
38, rue des Tournelles
75004 Paris
Phone: 01.42.71.43.33
Metro Station: Bastille (Lines 1, 5, and 8), Chemin-Vert (Line 8)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Thurs Noon - 2:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m. Fri Noon - 2:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. - midnight Sat 7:00 p.m. - midnight
Credit card: Visa, MC, Amex
Having recently dined at its sister restaurant L’Oulette, we decided to try the Bistrot de l’Ouette for lunch.
Chalkboards affixed to the handsome red façade of this restaurant announce the dishes of the day, as well as the names of the proprietors and the date that it was founded. We entered and found ourselves in a narrow, carpeted room with pale yellow walls and pictures displaying old-time photographs and sketches.
The waiter had reserved a table for us in the section at the back of the room, near the kitchen. Contrary to the disruptiveness that one might anticipate sitting near a restaurant’s kitchen, we were rather comfortable there.
We both ordered an apéritif called Salers Labounoux, a liqueur made from the root of Great Yellow Gentian (Gentiana lutea) that grows in the Massif Central. I found that the taste was similar to that of Suze, which also contains gentian, but more bitter.
As the restaurant offers a three-course, fixed-price menu for 33€, we decided to order from that. (For the lunchtime service, the restaurant also offers a one-course, fixed-price menu for 13€, and a two-course, fixed-price menu for 18€, but the choice is limited.)
For the starter, I chose the Salade d’éffiloché de lapin à l’estragon, croutons aux oignons rouges. The waiter presented a plate containing a square-shaped mound of moist and tender shredded rabbit, a small, mixed-green salad, and a thin slice of baguette spread with a confit of red onions. The rabbit had been flavored with tarragon and the onion confit was an ideal accompaniment for this country-style dish.
My partner ordered Asperges vertes à la crème de citron. Her asparagus was just a tad overcooked, but flavorful. It was sprinkled lightly with caraway seeds—not something one often encounters! A small, thimble-shaped glass of whipped crème fraîche, subtly flavored with lemon and peppered with caraway seeds, was served on the side. The flavor of the seeds provided zest to this unusual and inventive dish.
Spotting a main course on the menu that I had never seen before, I decided to try the Salmis de pintade, comme en Gascogne. I received a portion of guinea fowl that had been stewed with button mushrooms in wine sauce, according to the Gascony tradition. It was served in a small crock pot next to which was a flat ramekin containing gratin dauphinoise (sliced potatoes cooked in cream). This latter dish was so rich that I only dared to sample a small portion! The pintade-potato combination made for a delicious, hearty course that was a welcome delight, even if it conjured up notions of a meal that is best eaten on a winter’s day.
My partner opted for the Magret de canard rôti, jus au Porto, a serving of sliced duck breast prepared in Porto sauce. She declared herself neutral on this course, more because of the choices that she made than because of a lack of quality in the food. Because she is careful about her waistline, she asked for a substitute for the gratin potatoes that are normally served with the duck. She accepted the offer of a mixed salad, but later said that it would have been better to request green beans. This was because the salad was dressed with a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice, and curry, which would have been wonderful on its own. Alas, it was not the best accompaniment for duck in a slightly sweet Porto sauce. When she tasted my gratin potatoes, she said immediately that they would have been the best accompaniment. She ruefully indicated that sometimes it is better to sacrifice the waistline for a great taste sensation!
For the wine, we chose a half-bottle of Château du Cèdre Heritage 2005, a red wine from a wine-growing area near the town of Cahors in southwestern France. We both found this to be intensely flavored, yet not too tannic. It was a great accompaniment for our meal.
Thick-cut country bread was served alongside in a basket.
The dessert menu displayed some interesting choices. I placed my bet on the “Soupe” de chocolat blanc aux fruits de la passion, and I was served with a real winner! It was a small soup bowl containing chilled white-chocolate-flavored light cream in which floated a scoop of iced passion fruit. How imaginative! And how delectable! My partner staked her fortune on the Croustillade de pommes, granite d’Armagnac. Here, too, fate smiled. She found the spiced apples wrapped in a sheet of flaky pastry, accompanied by a scoop of iced Armagnac, to be superb.
The bill for two, including two apéritifs, two three-course, fixed-price menus, a half-bottle of wine, and an espresso, came to 91.80€.
The service was slow to begin, even though the restaurant was less than half full. Our waiter took our aperitif order at the same time that he asked for our dining preferences, which meant that we sat at the table for several minutes with nothing to take the edge off of our hunger. But once the aperitifs arrived, service became normal. At one point, the waiter noticed that we were toying with our camera and offered to take a photograph of us.
This is a restaurant to which we would not hesitate to return!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
L’Ardoise Gourmande
12, rue de Belzunce
75010 Paris
Phone: 01.48.78.40.03
Metro Station: Gare du Nord (Lines 4 and 5; RER B and D)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues to Fri Noon - 2:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m. Sat to Sun 7:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MC, Amex
L’Ardoise Gourmande is located only a five-minute walk from the Gare du Nord. We arrived at the station by way of the RER B, and were surprised by the great number of people we saw milling about, in and around the station, at that time of day. It was a veritable hive of activity! Travelers to Paris who are unfamiliar with the Gare du Nord should allow extra time for finding their way out of the station, and for finding their way from the station to the restaurant.
The restaurant stands on the corner of rues de Belzunce and Saint-Vincent de Paul. Its handsome slate-grey façade is echoed in the color scheme of the interior. Its slate walls, dark wooden-plank floor, and dark-wood chairs with velour cushions create a subdued atmosphere. White tablecloths on the tables, chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, a large mirror on the wall, and abundant natural light entering through the restaurant’s tall windows provide elegant counterpoint. The restaurant is a pleasant place in which to dine!
After we were seated, the waiter presented us with an amuse-bouche consisting of sliced raw carrots, radish, and cauliflower in a peppery vinaigrette. We took the occasion to order an apéritif, my partner choosing a white Porto and I an Americano. This drink, which is of Italian origin, is made with Campari—an alcohol infused with bitter herbs, aromatic plants, and fruit. It was quite refreshing!
The restaurant has a two-course, fixed-price menu for lunch and dinner that includes a small carafe of wine and a café for only 20€.
For the starter, I ordered Camembert rôti sur salade de mesclun and was served a round of Camembert cheese sitting on a bed of lettuce. The hot, melted cheese was contained in its bowl-shaped rind, allowing me to spread the runny goo on fresh, sliced baguette without making a mess. Apart from the sharp, tangy cheese, which I found delicious, the salad was disappointing. It was not a mixed salad as denoted by the word mesclun on the menu card, but was made from laitue, an ordinary type of lettuce found in the marketplace.
My partner requested the Salade de magret de canard fumé et framboises, but without the raspberries. She was quite happy when she was served a salad of lettuce and several thinly-sliced portions of duck breast with croutons, walnuts, and balsamic vinegar, all presented in a teardrop-shaped dish.
Filet de dorade grillé (grilled bream) was listed as the plat du jour, and I selected this as a main course. The tender, succulent fish was presented on a bed of sautéed, julienned carrots; flat green beans; and soybean sprouts, all cooked al dente. The bed of vegetables was surrounded by a ring of pesto sauce and fresh dill. A flavorful dish!
For her part, my partner ordered Millefeuille de boudin noir aux deux pommes. She was served an impressive tower of sliced, well-seasoned blood sausage alternating with sliced apple, all held together by a skewer. Three tear-shaped dollops of creamed potatoes garnished the plate, and a slightly sweet, pale yellow sauce made from sautéed onions was an additional accompaniment. She found the copious dish quite satisfactory, and declared that she would be pleased to return to order it again.
To accompany our meal I ordered a quarter-carafe of house white, while my partner ordered the house red. (Both wines were included in the fixed-price menu.) The white was a Sauvignon, which I found flowery and lemony, while my partner said that her Languedoc red was light and fruity, and accompanied her courses well.
Although the fixed-price menu was a two-course meal, I decided to try one of the sixteen different desserts that were listed on the dessert card. I selected Crêpes Suzette and was delighted to receive a plate containing two folded crêpes that had been doused in Grand Marnier. They arrived at the table still flaming. The crêpes were thin and eggy, and drenched in the slightly bitter liqueur. Scrumptious!
We were pleased with the service. One waiter worked the room and another worked behind the bar for most of the time that we were at the restaurant. As couple after couple arrived without a reservation, the waiter handling the dining room thoughtfully considered the reservation list and indicated to the couple whether or not they had adequate time to dine before he would need their table. A third waiter reported for duty about a half-hour before we left, and began to help in the dining room. He served us our dessert, and helped my partner on with her coat at the end of the meal.
The bill for two, including two apéritifs, two fixed-price, two-course menus, and one dessert, came to 60€.
The restaurant filled up quickly with customers, soon after 7:30 p.m. We advise those wishing to dine here to reserve their table!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
L’Autobus Impérial
14, rue Mondétour
75001 Paris
Phone: 01.42.36.00.18
Metro Station: Les Halles (Line 4) or Etienne Marcel (Line 4)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Sat Noon - 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m. Open for cocktails from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 a.m.
Credit card: Visa, MC
If we had judged this restaurant from the rather ordinary appearance of its façade, we might never have entered. However, we had already investigated the eatery by consulting restaurant guide books, so we felt confident that it would be a great place to dine.
The restaurant is spacious, with time-worn ambiance and Art Nouveau trim. Lots of lit candles decorated the tabletops and reggae played over the speaker system. (Later, the music would change to other styles, including a song by the Beatles.) The random polygonal shapes and colors of the tile floor added an extra touch of eclecticism.
While we consulted the menu, we were served an amuse-bouche consisting of tapenade d’olives (a spread made of crushed olives) and warm bread rolls. We also ordered, as an aperitif, the house cocktail named “Adam and Eve,” containing Cuban rum, manzana, white vermouth, and Angostura. As the waiter had promised, the drink had a refreshing sweet and sour taste, with a hint of bitterness imparted by the Angostura.
The restaurant has a three-course fixed-price menu (in French and English) for 29.50€. Each course lists a wide variety of dishes from which to choose.
For the starter, I ordered the Millefeuille d’aubergine, tomate au basillic, mozzarella di Bufala et jambon de Parme. I received a dish containing a mound of alternating layers of roasted eggplant, sliced tomato flavored with basil, and melted mozzarella (made from the milk of domesticated water buffalo), all wrapped lovingly in paper-thin slices of dry-cured ham from Parma. A squiggle of balsamic vinegar embellished the plate. The ham was deliciously salty and the millefeuille appetizing.
My partner opted for the Tulipe de Trévise au cœur d’artichaut et crottin de chèvre rôti au pavot, tapenade rouge. She was presented a single leaf of brick pastry folded to look like a tulip. It cradled a slice of artichoke heart and a small round of goat cheese that had been roasted with poppy seeds. She declared this visually appealing dish flavorful and satisfying!
The second course was equally tempting. I decided upon the Queue de lotte grillée à la plancha, sauce Sweet chilly citronnée, et risotto au parmesan, and was served a portion of grilled monkfish tail covered with a spicy-sweet, lemon-flavored chili sauce. A disk-shaped mound of creamy risotto topped with thin slices of Parmesan accompanied the dish. The monkfish was tender and flaky, and the savory risotto was a harmonious match.
My partner’s choice, the Souris d’agneau cuit en douceur, fruits secs et légumes de saison façon tajine, was a North-African inspired dish. The waiter presented a shallow bowl containing a braised knuckle of lamb atop a bed of sliced leek, zucchini, potato, and turnip, all resting in dark brown gravy. The full-flavored dish had been seasoned with dried prunes and apricots, and the slow-cooked meat was so tender that it fell off the bone.
To accompany our dishes, I ordered a Crozes-Hermitage 2008, a white wine from the Rhône region that had a pleasant minerally taste. My partner opted for the Fixin 2006, a red wine from the Burgundy region that she found surprisingly full-bodied.
For dessert, my Mi-cuit au chocolat servi dans une cocotte was served in a small crock pot. The center of the “half-baked” chocolate cake tasted delightfully like rich chocolate pudding. A scoop of ice cream flavored with vanilla from Madagascar was served alongside. My partner found her Palet de sablé à la crème caramel demi sel et noisettes grillées, coulis de fruits exotiques equally inviting. The thin disk of shortbread was topped with salted caramel cream, roasted hazelnuts, and a thin rectangle of chocolate. A kumquat and a sprig of red currents decorated the dish.
The waiter gave helpful suggestions when we asked for his opinion about the best wines to accompany our courses. We were delighted with the generous portions of wine by the glass that he served. After the dinner, a second waiter offered a glass of chilled manzana as an after-dinner drink. A nice finish to a delicious meal!
The bill for two, including two house cocktails, three glasses of wine, and two fixed-price menus, came to 92€.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
We left the restaurant fully satisfied, having learned not to be too quick to judge a restaurant by its façade!
L’oulette
15, place Lachambeaudie
75012 Paris
Phone: 01.40.02.02.12
Metro Station: Dugommier (Line 6), Cour Saint-Emilion (Line 14)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri Noon - 2:30 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. - 10:30 p.m
Credit card: Visa, MC, Amex
Travelers to Paris will find that this restaurant lies truly off the beaten path, but for those who make the effort to get there, they will be well rewarded with courteous service and fine cuisine. To get to the restaurant, we took bus 24 (direction Ecole Vétérinaire de Maisons-Alfort) from the Gare d’Austerlitz and got off at the stop called Dijon-Lachambeaudie. The restaurant lies diagonally across the square from the bus stop, on the ground floor of a modern office building behind the church Notre-Dame de la Nativité de Bercy.
The restaurant is spacious, with a retro look. Textured fabric covers the plum, peach, and reddish-orange colored chairs and bench seats against the wall. A huge flower vase stands in the middle of the room, the walls display pegboard paneling, and partially closed mini blinds hang from large windows. The lighting is subdued, and the waiters speak in hushed tones.
We began by ordering the restaurant’s house cocktail, an unusual combination of blackberry liqueur, sparkling wine, and gentian, a liqueur extracted from the root of the plant of the same name. We found the beverage to be slightly sweet and refreshing, with the flavor of the blackberry in predominance.
The restaurant offers a four-course fixed-price menu for 48€, including wine. This seemed to us to be opportunity to indulge!
We were served a mise en bouche, consisting of a small glass of crème d’aspèrge and a tiny serving platter containing fresh prawns and pickled red bell pepper. The asparagus soup was topped with cream, while the remainder of the portion was slightly thinner. At first it tasted slightly sour, but this dissipated and I found it to be appetizing.
I ordered Escargots “petit gris,” fondue de chou-rave et galanga for the starter. I was served a large glass containing a warm broth in which floated snails, diced kohlrabi and galangal root, and sliced almonds. This was the first time that I tried snails that had not been broiled in garlic butter, but were, instead, served in a broth. It was a surprisingly tasty dish with contrasting textures, as the root plants and almonds provided firmness, while the snails had a texture that resembled squid.
My partner requested Asperges vertes, crumble de chorizo, bouillon de foie gras and received six perfectly cooked asparagus stalks cut in half and arranged on a plate side by side with a topping of crumbled chorizo. Next to the presentation was a tall glass of foie gras bouillon in which stood another asparagus stalk. She declared the dish sublime!
For the main course, I opted for Filet de dorade, topinambours et coriandre, “rouleau d’hiver” de poireaux aux crevettes. A stack of three slices of pan-fried bream resting on a bed of sliced, sautéed Jerusalem artichokes sat beside a dollop of finely minced mushrooms cooked in squid ink. A “winter roll” of chopped prawns wrapped in leek rounded out the dish. Each element had its own distinct character, and I was particularly intrigued by the minced mushrooms in squid ink. The mushroom tasted faintly fishy,and strongly resembled caviar. I wondered what it might be, until the waitress revealed the ingredients.
My partner ordered Veau en deux cuissons, braise et rôti, panais et carottes des sables. This consisted of a slice of braised veal and two slices of roasted veal, all topped with a sauce containing well-cooked shallots. The braised veal was more dense and darkly colored than the roasted portions, but both were tender and flavorful. A paintbrush streak of beet juice garnished the plate, creating a “frontier” over which neither veal preparation dared to cross. A small cup of puréed parsnips accompanied this dish – they were incredibly sweet and provided balance for the shallots in the sauce.
During the meal we had white and red wines selected by the house, per the conditions of the menu. They were both Gerard Bertrand 6ème Sens from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. The white had a clear golden color, slightly sharp and slightly fruity flavor, and good body. The red was supple and lively, with distinctive berry notes.
Warmed country bread was served by the slice on individual bread plates.
The third course was a serving of Chèvre crémeux aux fruits secs. This was a generous portion of sweet, moist, creamy-to-crumbly goat cheese served with raisins and slices of warm raisin bread. A small mixed salad accompanied the cheese.
Finally came the dessert! I ordered the Parfait glacé pistache avec coulis de cerise, and got two servings of pistachio ice cream, each topped with a thin layer of white chocolate containing crushed pistachios. Served alongside was a small glass of cherry coulis. This unusual dessert was exquisite!
My partner opted for Le chocolate: mousse au guanaja, sorbet cacao et chocolate tiède à la cardamom. She is not that fond of chocolate, so this order was uncommon for her. Yet she quite enjoyed the cocoa sorbet, finishing it first and with a flourish. She then moved on to the mouse, which she also pronounced delicious. The hot chocolate was slightly disappointing in that it was not the rich, thick treat that she was hoping for. But it was beautifully perfumed with cardamom, and two small pods lay beside the glass as witnesses to the flavor and aroma that this spice provided.
The treats did not end with the dessert! I ordered an after-dinner espresso and we were presented a slate containing a small glass of black currant mousse and a slice of chocolate cake for each of us. Splendid!
The bill for two, including two aperitif cocktails, the four-course menu with wine, and a single espresso came to 119.00€.
During the meal the waiters and waitress answered our questions about the ingredients of the food and wine and were courteous in every way. Based on our experience there, we highly recommend this restaurant.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Zinc Caïus
11, rue d’Armaille
75017 Paris
Phone: 01.44.09.05.10
Metro Station: Argentine (Line 1)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues to Sat Noon - 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m
Credit card: Visa, MC, Amex
Zinc Caïus is a compact restaurant with narrow chairs and small tables. For those for whom dining in a restricted space does not pose a problem, their reward will be great food!
We entered shortly after the restaurant opened and were seated at a tall table, where we perched upon bar-style chairs. As our early arrival allowed us to study the restaurant at our leisure, we noted that the zinc-grey façade of the bistrot was echoed in the shoulder-high zinc molding of the interior; the zinc frame of the mirror; and the zinc counter of the bar. The metallic theme was repeated with the futuristic-looking light fixture on the ceiling, made of copper and brushed iron.
As the restaurant does not offer a fixed-price menu, we ordered à la carte from a list of dishes displayed on a chalkboard affixed to the wall.
We both chose the Millefeuille végétarian (pistou) as a starter. The “millefeuille” was a layered vegetable dish, alternating thinly-sliced, picked cucumber, red and yellow bell peppers, carrots, and tomatoes, held together in gelatin. We found the slightly smoky flavor of this dish intriguing and appetizing. It would be a wonderful dish for a hot, summer day!
For the main course, I ordered the plat du jour. Named Poêlée de Langoustines, riz vénéré (jus crémeux crustacés et wasabi), it was a serving of langoustine (Norway lobster) on a bed of savory black rice. The rice was cooked al dente, providing texture to the dish. A frothy wasabi-flavored sauce added piquancy.
My partner ordered the Bœuf (entrecôte) de Bavière, Race Simmental, purée de PDT, requesting that a leafy-green salad be substituted for the potato purée. While she asked that the rib-eye cut of beef be cooked à point (medium), the portion that she received was well-cooked at the edges. However, this did not seem to dampen her enthusiasm for the flavor of the meat, which was garnished with a small dollop of cooked shallots.
Thick-sliced country bread was served alongside in a basket.
To accompany my meal, I selected a glass of Xavier Guillaume Chardonnay des Vieilles Vignes 2008 Franche-Comté, a full, dry, white wine. To accompany her starter, my partner ordered a Pascal Jolivet Attitude Sauvignon 2007, a limpid, soft, and fruity white. For her main course she selected an Abbaye Sylva Plana - Faugères - La Closeraie 2007, a dense, dark, spicy red that mellowed over time.
As I like to try different desserts each time I dine out, I opted for the Chantilly de semoule (framboises & mûres). I received an orange-colored bowl containing a large dollop of whipped cream into which had been folded finely ground semolina made from durum wheat. The dense mousse was flavored with vanilla and garnished with raspberry coulis, blackberries, and raspberries. It was sweet and delicious!
For her dessert, my partner selected the Pain perdu, glace caramel et noisettes (Maison). The dish consisted of French toast made from a one-inch thick slice of country bread that had been dusted with powdered sugar. A scoop of caramel ice cream was served on the side. The densely textured bread released a wonderful flavor of butter and spices with each bite.
During the meal, we noted that the waiter took care to explain the menu in English to an American couple that was seated across the room.
The bill for two, including two aperitifs, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, three glasses of wine, and one espresso came to 95.50€.
Except for the size constraint noted above, we think that American travelers looking for a great meal at a contemporary French restaurant will be pleased to dine here!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Vin Chai Moi
18, rue Duphot
75001 Paris
Phone: 01.40.15.06.69
Metro Station: Madeleine (Lines 8, 12, and 14)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon Noon to 2:30 p.m. Tues - Friday Noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Sat 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MC, Amex
When we arrived at the door of this spacious restaurant, we were cordially greeted by a distinguished-looking man, who took our coats and then escorted us up a spiral staircase to the dining room. The man, it turns out, was Luc Ménier, formerly a sommelier at the Laserre and Jules Verne restaurants. He knows wines really well, and, in fact, has created a number of before-dinner, wine-based cocktails, which he invited us to try. I opted for a cocktail made with rosé wine and syrup of lichee and rose water, which I found light and refreshing. My partner tried a cocktail made with red wine and syrups of mint and chocolate. She found it unique because of the unusual burst of mint on the palate, followed very closely by the flavor of the wine, and finally, a distinctive cocoa finish.
The restaurant offers a 38€ three-course menu, from which my partner made her selection. For my part, I ordered à la carte. I selected the Terrine “maison” de canard, estragon, cerfeuil, aromates. While duck can sometimes have a gamey flavor, I found the terrine savory and mild. Thinly sliced lemon peel added zest to the dish, and a sweetly dressed salad of sucrine lettuce and exotic greens was served on the side. My partner ordered from the menu and chose the Vélouté d’asperge, coppa en cappuccino. She was served a leaf-shaped porcelain dish that cradled a thick, creamy asparagus soup. A thin slice of coppa, the traditional Italian dry-cured cold cut, floated on top of the soup, topped with a dollop of crème fraîche. This starter was both rich and delicious!
I selected Cochon de lait confit aux épices, tombée de Granny Smith, réglisse for the main course. This was a serving of roasted, pressed, milk-fed pork served on a bed of sweet caramelized onions. Three generous dollops of slightly sour, coarsely-cut compote of Granny Smith apples were served alongside. The flavors of the three ingredients, pork, apple, and onion, harmonized well. My partner opted for Sauté d’agneau “Madras,” riz basmati, a serving of fork-tender stewed lamb on a bed of basmati rice. The lamb was delectably seasoned with apple, banana, pineapple, and coconut milk, whose savor and tang melded perfectly with the perfumed basmati.
Coarsely-cut, dark country bread was served alongside in a basket.
For the wine accompaniment, we ordered a pitcher (46 cl) of red Minervois from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. It was recommended by M. Ménier in consideration of what we had selected as main dishes, and we found his selection to be quite appropriate.
When it came time to order dessert, I belatedly realized that I had not ordered the Soufflé au Grand Marnier in advance, as the restaurant requires. So, I chose the Pomme golden, confite façon Tatin, glace vanille and was not disappointed to receive a dish of tender slices of caramelized Golden apple garnished with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The ice cream was “peppered” with tiny bits of vanilla bean, which is the sign that true vanilla is used to flavor the frozen dessert. My partner had the foresight to order a soufflé in advance. It arrived with a beautifully browned top, indicating that it had been pulled out of the oven at just the right moment of doneness. The taste of egg was not too pronounced for her, and the taste of Grand Marnier was evident, but not overpowering.
During our meal, we noted that personnel from the kitchen came out to serve dishes (including our dessert) to customers as the restaurant became more and more busy. Their assistance helped prevent the prolonged wait that diners often experience between the main course and dessert in crowded restaurants. We also noted that Mr. Ménier patiently explained the menu in English to an American couple that was seated nearby, an indication that Anglophones who come here need not feel chagrin if their French is not fluent.
After dinner, M. Ménier graciously gave us a tour of his restaurant and showed us the wine cave, which boasts original stone walls. With three levels for dining, the restaurant can accommodate private parties for lunch or dinner and for special events.
The bill for two, including two aperitifs, one three-course menu at 38€, one three-course à la carte dinner, and a pitcher of wine came to 101.80€.
Opened in May 2009, the restaurant has already attained world renown, judging from the number of foreign customers that we observed dining there. It is a bistrot that we recommend without hesitation!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
L’Epigramme
9, rue de l’Eperon
75006 Paris
Phone: 01.44.41.00.09
Metro Station: Odéon (Lines 4 and 10)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues to Sat Noon - 2 :30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. - 11:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, Amex, MC
Located just off the busy boulevard Saint-Germain-des-Prés, L’Epigramme is a small restaurant boasting a smart, purple façade. Upon entering the establishment, one can see an exposed stone wall to the left and, to the right, a wall largely covered in egg-shell-white stucco. The ceiling displays exposed wooden beams, and the floor, hexagonal tomettes (terracotta tiles) in shades of melon, brick, and pale salmon. Large, sparkling-clean French windows let in ample, natural light, while jazz and music from the cinema plays over the sound system, setting the mood for a relaxed dinner.
After we had settled into our seats, we were pleased to learn that the restaurant serves Bugey Cerdon, a slightly sweet sparkling wine, as an aperitif. We always find its raspberry aroma so refreshing! Along with the beverage, we were served a small dish of crudités, or sliced, raw carrots, radishes, and bell pepper, and a dish of anchoïade, a Provençal dish containing anchovy, olive oil, garlic, and avocado.
The waiter presented a chalkboard displaying the selections for the entrée, plat principal, and dessert. The restaurant serves a 30€ three-course fixed-price menu in the evening.
For the starter, I ordered Pâté de lapin aux fruits secs and received a large, thick slice of terrine of shredded rabbit pressed with almonds, pistachios, and raisins, served on a wooden cutting board. It was a moist, meaty, and delicious spread that I put on the slice of thick-cut country toast that was served alongside. A small dish of picked crudités accompanied the terrine.
My partner requested the Fois gras mi-cuit en terrine, chutney de sangria. This was a well-proportioned slice of coarsely marbled foie gras, sprinkled with sea salt. A finely textured dollop of chutney, reddened by sangria, was served alongside. A half-slice of toasted country bread rounded out the dish. The zing of the chutney accentuated the quite mild flavor of the foie gras.
I remained true to my desire for rabbit that evening and opted for the Râble de lapin et légumes printanières rôtis au cidre for the main course. I was served a tender, juicy portion of saddle of rabbit wrapped in prune and bacon sitting atop a bed of roasted spring vegetables in an apple cider sauce. The vegetables consisted of turnip, carrot, al dente snow peas, string beans, and potato. The dish was hearty and flavorful, and the apple cider sauce added a touch of delicious sweetness.
For her main course, my partner ordered Cochon de lait farci en porchetta, fine choucroute de navet. Juniper berries punctuated the stuffing for this pork dish, which she found slightly gamey. A lovely bed of julienned turnips lay beneath the pork, complementing the latter perfectly. While she was pleased with the flavor of the dish, she was disappointed by the meager size of the strip of pork that was wrapped around the stuffing. A few thin slices of green onion and a drizzle of light brown reduction garnished the plate.
We ordered a half-bottle of Morgon Marcel Lapierre 2008 to accompany our meal, and were pleased with this light-bodied, slightly spicy, red Beaujolais from the Rhône-Alpes region of France.
Medium-sliced country bread was served alongside in a basket.
Out of the five desserts to choose from, I selected the intriguingly entitled Pressé tout chocolat. This was not a terrine of different kinds of pressed chocolate as I had imagined, but rather two thin slices of a three-layered chocolate cake served with a sprinkling of sea salt. The salt gave a sparkle of flavor to the chocolate, which I liked, but I found the cake to be somewhat dry. The frosting within the three layers was a rich, dark, bittersweet chocolate.
My partner decided on the Sablé breton, compotée de pomme et rhubarbe, caramel au beurre salé. Two thin shortbread cookies of rather large diameter sandwiched an apple-rhubarb compote. The top sablé was drizzled with salted caramel sauce, some of which also garnished the dessert plate. The compote was a perfect combination of sweet apple and tart rhubarb. The caramel was an exquisite touch, accentuating the buttery shortbread. As much as my partner appreciated the compote and the sablé, she wanted more of the caramel!
After dinner, I ordered an espresso and was delighted to receive, along with the coffee, two thin, bittersweet tablettes of chocolate.
The bill for two, including two aperitifs, two 30€ menus (with a 4€ supplement for the foie gras), a half-bottle of Morgon, and an espresso came to 105.75€.
Our waiter had a sense of humor (when I ordered rabbit for the entrée and the main dish, he quipped that there was no rabbit on the dessert menu that evening) and the meal was delightful, making this a restaurant that we look forward to returning to.
Les Fines Gueules
43, rue Croix des Petits Champs
75001 Paris
Phone: 01.42.61.35.41
Metro Station: Bourse or Sentier (Line 3), Les Halles (Line 4)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Open seven days a week Noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Amex, Visa, MasterCard
Les Fines Gueules is nestled under two squinches of a 17th century townhouse that stands majestically on the Y-shaped intersection of rues Croix des Petits Champs and La Vrillière. A boxed olive tree in the front of the restaurant sets the tone for the drab olive-tone color of the façade and one part of the main room, which is painted olive-green. This room exhibits exposed steel beams, copper tubing, and brick columns, giving the restaurant a modern, industrial feel. The counter of the bar appears to be clad in aluminum, with a facing in painted steel. Drafting lamps hang above tables and large, dome-shaped, frosted-glass lamps hang over the bar. There are additional rooms for dining upstairs and a half-flight downstairs to the right of the bar. The restaurant has a decidedly eclectic atmosphere!
We sat on tall stools at a tall table in a small alcove at the very point of the Y-shaped intersection, from which we could enjoy watching automobiles suddenly appear from rue La Vrillière and then glide down rue Croix des Petits Champs. This little nook sheltered us from the hustle and bustle of diners and the waitress moving through the dining room. The one disadvantage to the general arrangement of the restaurant is that the menu is written on a large chalkboard, which the waitress places alongside each customer’s table. Because the ground floor dining area is quite compact, the chalkboard encumbers free passage of customers and waitresses, who, quite naturally, need to pass by.
As an aperitif, we each ordered a glass of Duval-Leroy Premier Cru champagne. We found this champagne to be quite sharp and mineral-like, with fine bubbles.
As the restaurant does not offer a fixed-price menu, we ordered à la carte.
In lieu of a starter and a main course, my partner ordered two starters. The first was Potage de campagne, huile de truffe, amandes torréfiées. She was pleased to receive a perfectly seasoned vegetable soup in which floated a small island of crushed, roasted almonds. While she was satisfied with the texture of the broth, she remarked that she could not taste the truffle oil.
The second starter was Tranche de boudin noir de Christian Parra, tiède sur lit de jeunes pousses. We later recognized the name of the blood sausage maker from our review of the Jeu de Quilles restaurant last October. My partner liked the texture, and thought that she could taste apple, which is often served with boudin noir, but did not find the sausage quite spicy enough. The large disk of boudin sat atop a bed of mixed greens, and five small, slightly sweet, roasted new potatoes were served on the plate as an accompaniment.
I ordered the same dish of boudin noir for my starter, and found it light to the taste and mildly spicy.
For my main course I ordered Suprême de pintade fermière, mousseline de brocolis, jus de viande à la châtaigne. I received a moist, tender breast of guinea fowl resting atop a bed of finely chopped, cooked broccoli in a delicious sauce. The mousseline de brocolis was, in my mind, misnamed, because mousseline is normally a purée, which this was not. It was, nonetheless, quite flavorsome!
To accompany our first course, we each ordered a glass of Mâcon Village Domaine de Roally 2007, which was rich yellow in color, soft, and full on the palate. For the main course, my partner ordered a Cheverny Domaine des Huards 2007. She found it spicy with a hint of animal notes.
Thinly-sliced country bread was served alongside in a basket.
For dessert, I ordered a Mi-cuit au chocolat. True to its name, the small round cake had a warm, bittersweet liquid center. A ring of caramel sauce around the plate added an extra touch of flavor.
My partner opted for the Tarte Tatin aux poires, crème double de chez Bordier. Like its cousin, the Tarte Tatin aux pommes, this is an upside-down tart in which the sliced pears are caramelized in butter and sugar before the tart is baked. She found the pears firm and pleasantly caramelized and the crust optimally thin. The extra-heavy cream, from Maître Bordier on the Brittany coast, was not as bitter or sour as standard crème fraîche; it was served alongside in a small ceramic cup.
The waitress was helpful and friendly and answered our questions about the food and wine. Though she tried valiantly, she never delivered bread to our table in time for the first course. Three times she headed our way, basket in hand, but three times other diners diverted her attention. She finally succeeded in getting it to us in time for the main course! Despite this snag, we found that she performed her tasks admirably in the restricted confines of this narrow restaurant.
The bill for two, including two champagne aperitifs, three starters, one main course, two desserts, and three glasses of wine came to 110€.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Caïus
6, Rue d’Armaille
75017 Paris
Phone: 01.42.27.19.20
Metro Station: Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile (Lines 1, 2, 6)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon – Sat Noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, Amex
The design of this restaurant inspires a feeling of comfort, and so we entered and settled into the ambiance of medium-toned wood paneling, dark purple curtains, thickly carpeted floor, cloth-covered chairs, and dark-toned, high-gloss wooden tables with ecru runners. The waiter placed a chalkboard nearby for us to study the 39€ three-coursemenu-carte, while we sipped our aperitifs of Suze and red Port. A small serving bowl of fromage blanc flavored with chives, shallots, and walnut oil served with thin-sliced country bread helped quell our hunger and permitted us to study the menu at our leisure.
As I am generally on the outlook for unusual dishes, I ordered, as a starter, the Oeuf coque Caïus. I was served a long oblong dish containing, separately, two small slices of pan-fried brioche topped with herring eggs, a single poached egg, and a small portion of baby sucrine in a light vinaigrette. While I found the dish was satisfying, I was somewhat puzzled by the pairing of sucrine lettuce with poached egg, caviar of herring, and pan-fried brioche. I think that the serving would have had more unity if it had been served in smaller dish without the lettuce.
For her starter, my partner opted for Gnocchi d’Agria, sauce Parmesan, huile de truffe blanche. She was served a bowl containing a frothy Parmesan sauce in which floated three or four portions of gnocchi made from a yellow potato called Agria. The soft, wedge-shaped gnocchi were perfumed with nutmeg and literally melted in the mouth! The sauce was laced with white truffle oil, the scent of which wafted up from the bowl as soon as it was placed before her.
For the main course, I chose another dish that one does not see on French menus too often: Poitrine de cochon rôtie (cannelle-coriandre, carottes gingembre.) It was a tender, tasty portion of roasted pork belly flavored with cinnamon and coriander. Thinly sliced, buttered orange and yellow carrots flavored with ginger were served as an accompaniment. This was a hearty, appetizing dish.
My partner decided on the Filet de canette, purée de patate douce. Although the waiter had neglected to ask her how she wanted it cooked, the small duck breast arrived rosé, the way she preferred. The breast rested on a bed of puréed sweet potato, flavored with ginger and garnished with fine strips of red beet. The duck was juicy and flavorful, and the sweet potato was a fitting accompaniment.
To accompany our meal, we ordered a bottle of Cahors Clos la Coutale 2008, a medium bodied wine, low in tannin with notes of berry. We ordered this au compteur, meaning that we paid only for the portion of the bottle that we consumed, which, in our case, was a two-third portion.
The desserts did not disappoint. Still seeking the unusual, I selected the Pastilla au lait, granité thé vert. Whilepastilla is normally a meat pie wrapped in brick pastry, a pastilla au lait as served here is a multilayered dessert, alternating flat sheets of brick pastry and milk-flavored cream-like filling, topped with whole pistachios. This was a crunchy, flavorful treat. Alongside was a small ramekin of granité thé vert, a grainy, frozen mixture of sugar, water, and green tea. Refreshing!
My partner found her Cheese cake Caïus quite satisfying. It was a rectangular portion of fromage blanc, peppered with vanilla bean grains, resting atop a thin pâte sablée crust. Yoghurt ice cream and red-berry compote were served alongside.
The waiter graciously accommodated our request to our request to change tables and patiently answered our questions about the menu.
The bill for two, including two aperitifs, two menu-cartés, a two-third portion of a bottle of wine, and one espresso came to 107€. A generous portion of small candies were served with the espresso.
By 8:30 p.m. the room was full of happy diners, all of them, as far as we could tell, Francophone. A telling indication, we believe, of the quality of the food and service!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Café Moderne
40, rue Notre Dame des Victoires
75002 Paris
Phone: 01.53.40.84.10
Metro Station: Bourse (Line 9)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon - Fri Noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sat 7:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Amex, Visa
This long, narrow restaurant is handsomely decorated with a wooden-plank floor; red, purple, and black velour chairs; and tabletops covered in padded, textured vinyl. In the front room, the walls and ceiling are brown, French doors look out onto a courtyard, and mirrors make the room look wider than it is. Against the wall, a large four-tiered wine cabinet with glass doors is functional as well as decorative. Because the room is narrow, and because the floor is not carpeted, the room gets quite noisy around 8:30 p.m.
After we settled in, we each ordered a glass of Pierre Gimonnet 1er Cru Blanc de Blanc, a crisp, elegant champagne.
The restaurant has no à la carte menu, hence we each ordered from the fixed-price menu (35€ for three courses; numerous choices for each course). I started with the Vélouté d’hélianthis, cromesquis de fois gras aux fruits du mendiant, a smooth and creamy salsify soup in the middle of which rested a large croquette enveloping warm foie grasand raisins. The croquette was dreamy-rich and delicious!
My partner chose the Raviolis d’escargots petit gris, poireaux fondants au beurre d’agrumes. This dish consisted of green, round raviolis stuffed with snail, resting atop steamed leeks in a butter sauce. The leeks were tender; the pasta was cooked slightly beyond the point of al dente. My partner thought that she detected a faint aroma reminiscent of seafood while eating this dish, but it was elusive and not always present. She declared that the flavors melded well, and that the wine (see below) was an excellent accompaniment.
For the main course, I opted for the Filet de bar en croûte de pistache, polenta moelleuse aux olives pitchounettes, consisting of two slices of bass in a crushed-pistachio crust resting on a portion of polenta. The fish was moist and tender, and the polenta was almost dessert-like in its texture and taste. It contained black olives, a delightful Mediterranean touch.
My partner opted for Filet de canette, purée de topinambour, champignon de bois, confit de coing for the main course. The duck breast was a substitute for the noisette de biche that was listed on the menu, but was no longer available due to the end of hunting season. The skin of the breast, which was not very fatty, was topped with the stewed plums. The breast rested upon a bed of mushrooms that were marvelously perfumed with ginger, quatre épices, and a touch of cinnamon. A purée of Jerusalem artichoke was also part of the bed upon which the duck lay, and a couple of pearl onions were included for good measure. The duck was succulent, and the mushrooms had not a trace of grit. This dish was an unqualified winner!
Fresh baguette, sliced thin and diagonally across the loaf, was served alongside in a bowl.
To accompany the meal, I ordered a glass of Morgon Côte de Py, a light red Beaujolais wine with notes of berry. My partner chose a Villard Syrah l’Appel des Sereines from the Rhône valley, a medium-bodied red wine with a hint of animal notes.
My dessert consisted of a Macaron chocolat grand crû, clémentine confite aux écorces d’oranges, a large chocolate-filled macaron resting on a bed of alcohol-soaked sections of clementine. The chocolate filling was rich, dark, and satisfying.
My partner selected the Succès praliné-noisettes, glace caramel au beurre salé for dessert. This consisted of a lovely, moist hazelnut cake that was garnished with a single, entire hazelnut, a small scoop of caramel ice cream, and a crunchy, airy chocolate biscuit. A drizzle of chocolate coulis on the plate provided additional flavor and flair.
The service was friendly and efficient. Our waitress was quite knowledgeable and took the time to answer our questions about the food. Whenever she did not have the answers to our questions, she went into the kitchen to inquire on our behalf.
The bill for two, including two glasses of champagne, two 35€ menus, and two glasses of wine, came to 108€.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Mères et Filles
8, rue Saint-Paul
75004 Paris
Phone: 01.48.04.75.89
Metro Station: Sully Morland
Type of cuisine: French cuisine with spices from around the world
Days & hours of operation: Tues - Sat Noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa
About a year ago, a restaurant called Le Rouge-Gorge closed, and a new one, named Mères et Filles, opened at the same spot. Having dined at Le Rouge-Gorge on several occasions and having relished the old-time bistrot ambiance of its bare-stone walls, terra cotta floor, and wooden chairs and tables, we decided to return to see what type of cuisine the new owners had to offer. The current proprietors are Flavie and Mélodie, two young women who initially operated a restaurant in the town of Sarlat, located in the south of France. Their new restaurant is dedicated to their mothers and to mothers and daughters in general. Photographs of mothers and daughters are affixed to the wall opposite the bar (as well as on the ceiling!), attesting to their affection for the filial bond.
After we entered the small restaurant, Mélodie graciously received us and showed us to our table. She proposed a vin cuit as an aperitif, and we ordered one flavored with peach and another flavored with walnut. The wines are produced by Distillerie Lapouge, a company founded in 1860 in the Périgord region of France. We found them to be quite pleasing; the peach flavor was the sweeter and more refreshing of the two.
As an hors d’oeuvre, we were served cacahuètes japonaises, which are peanuts flavored with wasabi, a spice known as Japanese horseradish.
For the starter, I ordered the Rouleau de courgette à la féta, vinaigrette au citron et menthe fraîche. I was not too sure from the name of the dish what I would receive, but was delighted when a plate of sizzling hot spring rolls stuffed with feta cheese and sliced zucchini was placed in front of me. It was a delicious medley of flavors that included mint leaves and sweet and spicy sauce that accompanied the rolls. A small salad flavored with balsamic vinegar complemented the dish.
I rarely pass up the opportunity to order risotto when I find it on the menu. Consequently, when I saw Risotto noir aux fruits de mer, I selected this as a main course. The serving was a generous portion of rice cooked in squid ink, which colored the rice black. The risotto still had structure to it, which was to my liking, although my partner reminded me that she preferred hers cooked to the point of softness. Throughout the risotto were bits of seafood, including squid, mussel, small prawns, and crab meat. The dish was topped with two succulent giant prawns.
My partner ordered Tournedos, sauce au cèpes, purée tradition, a tenderloin of beef prepared in a sauce of Boletus mushroom. The first bite of beef was tender, but they became chewier as she got to the center of the cut. The mushroom sauce was flavored with pork and cooked to dark-brown perfection, which she found compensated for the chewy beef. She had requested a salad substitution for the purée of potatoes but was disappointed to find some grit in the leaves.
To accompany the main course, I ordered a glass of Domaine Leccia Patrimonio 2008, a white wine from Corsica. I found it to have a pleasing tangy, citrus-like flavor. My partner ordered a red Pic Saint-Loup I’Olivette 2007. This wine had very strong animal notes, but my partner declared that it was a good accompaniment to her beef and mushroom dish.
Thick-sliced baguette was served alongside in a basket. We were disappointed that was not quite fresh.
For dessert, I ordered a New York cheesecake, while my partner opted for a Baba au rhum. The house-made cheesecake, served with a tangy raspberry sauce, was certainly as good as any that I have ever tasted, and my partner happily tucked into her rum-soaked baba. Mélodie placed the bottle on our table, just in case my partner thought that the baba did not contain enough alcohol! We noted that the rum was from Guadeloupe, and that it was named Rhum Bologne Chevalier de Saint-Georges after the once-famous (but now-forgotten) Afro-French musician, composer, and fencer of the 18th century.
The service was friendly and efficient.
The bill for two, including two aperitifs, two glasses of wine, one starter, two main courses, and two desserts, came to 88€.
We left the restaurant pleased that we had decided to return to experience its old-time ambiance and the cooking of the new proprietors.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Le Fin Gourmet
42, rue Saint-Louis en I’île
75004 Paris
Phone: 01.43.26.79.27
Metro Station: Pont Marie (Line 7)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Weds to Sun Noon - 2:30 p.m., 7:00 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Amex, Visa
Located in the heart of Ile Saint-Louis, the sparkling-clean windows of this restaurant afford a view of contented diners enjoying a fine meal in a quasi-rustic setting. Upon entering the establishment, one immediately feels comfortable in the old-time ambiance of exposed beams and bare-stone walls. However, make no mistake about it—though the food served here mostly traditional, it is created and presented with modern flair.
We were enticed to return to Le Fin Gourmet on the weekend of Valentine’s Day, when we learned that the restaurant was offering a half-bottle of Billecart-Salmon champagne to diners who ordered either the 33€ menu or à la carte. Having dined here on several occasions since the establishment opened in 2005, we were eager to claim our prize.
Choosing from the 33€ three-course menu, I began my meal with the Tarte fine d’andouillette AAAAA et confiture d’oignons, consisting of light, thin pastry supporting thinly-sliced andouillette sausage, topped with a small rocket salad. Balsamic vinegar and sweet, onion confit garnished the plate. Andouillette has a strong “welcome-to-the-farm” aroma, making this a dish that only incorrigible lovers of traditional French cuisine could enjoy. And enjoy it I did!
My partner opted for the Ravioles à la duxelle de champignons et bouillon d’ail doux. A duxelle is a mixture of minced mushrooms and shallots or onions. It is used as a garnish, a stuffing, or to flavor sauces and soups. In this case, she received a serving of thin sheets of pasta encasing the duxelle mixture, bathed in a light cream sauce flavored with garlic. Though the aroma of the garlic was mild, the flavor was intense. Finely chopped parsley served as garnish.
For the main course, I selected another unusual dish, ordering Risotto d’encornet, moules et coques, a risotto dish of squid, mussel, and shellfish. The squid was cut to serve as a cone, into which was stuffed a mixture of risotto, mussel, and shellfish, the whole resting in a frothy lobster-based sauce. It was a delicious, filling dish.
My partner decided on Canneloni croustillant de volaille fermière et champignons, a serving of chicken breast pressed into the form of a spring roll and coated with a light, flaky pastry. A creamy dipping sauce flavored with nutmeg was served alongside in a shot glass. Accompanying the chicken was a méli-mélo of shitake, oyster mushrooms, and Paris mushrooms. The flavors of the dish were delicate and pleasing.
To accompany the meal, we ordered a half-bottle of Joseph Drouhin Rully 2007. This pale-gold wine conveyed a subtle hint of caramel and apricot.
Bread rolls were served alongside in bread dishes.
For dessert, I ordered the Verrine rhubarbe et banane. It was served in a small canning jar containing a multi-layered dessert of chocolate wafer, rhubarb purée, and banana-cream mousse, topped with another chocolate wafer. The inside of the open lid of the jar supported a scoop of caramel ice cream. It was an imaginative dessert and a delicious conclusion to a fine meal.
My partner chose a Mœlleux au chocolat et mousse de fraises Tagada. This chocolate concoction was baked in a coffee cup that doubled as a serving dish. The cake was topped with a mousse made from strawberry Tagada, a child’s candy invented in 1969 by the Haribo Company. A moelleux should have a soft, semi-liquid chocolate center, but my partner’s serving was cake through and through. It had been overcooked, but she was only mildly disappointed, for it was delicious nonetheless. Berry sorbet was served alongside in a ramekin.
The service was efficient, friendly, and correct.
The bill for two, including two three-course menus, a half-bottle of wine, and an espresso came to 87.50€.
Except for the minor disappointment of the overcooked dessert, we were quite pleased with our meal. We left the restaurant happily carrying our half-bottle Valentine’s Day gift of Billecart-Salmon brut rosé champagne.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Pasco
74, boulevard de La Tour-Maubourg
75007 Paris
Phone: 01.44.18.33.26
Metro Station: La Tour-Maubourg (Line 
or Ecole Militaire (Line
Type of cuisine: Mediterranean
Days & hours of operation: Open daily Noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Amex, Visa
Located on the western side of the Invalides, this spacious restaurant exhibits light-brown tones, rose-colored brick walls, and dark-brown exposed beams. Upon crossing the threshold, one has the impression of entering into a Spanish hacienda. Large windows let in ample light, and a sheltered terrace permits outdoor dining on warm days.
For an apéritif, I ordered a Cocktail Sud, a Martini vermouth with bitter orange. It was a truly stimulating drink for me, and an appropriate way to begin a meal. My partner enjoyed a white Porto, produced by Ramos Pinto.
I ordered the 27€ three-course menu, and my partner ordered à la carte.
For the starter, I selected the Millefeuille d’aubergine au chèvre frais. When it was brought to our table, I saw that it had been imaginatively named, for it was a cooked eggplant that had been stuffed with warm goat cheese, topped with red beet sprouts, and cut horizontally, to give it a two-tiered look. My partner ordered the same, and we were both pleased with this dish.
The main course was no less interesting! I chose the Filet de dorade en croûte de chorizo, piperade de légumes, and received two slices of bream resting on a bed of piperade, a Basque dish prepared with sautéed onions, yellow, red, and green peppers, and tomatoes, and flavored with red Espelette pepper. The top layer of bream had a coating of minced chorizo, a Spanish pork sausage flavored with paprika. The fish was fork-tender and succulent and the piperade quite tasty.
My partner opted for the Pigeon rôti, fricassé de grenailles et épinard. The pigeon, which was cooked rosé, was tender and flavorful. The two halves of the bird straddled a bed of new potatoes and sautéed spinach leaves. A small triangle of foie gras crowned the dish. A swirl of balsamic vinegar on the plate added a touch of sweetness.
We ordered a half-bottle of Crozes-Hermitage Chante Passo 2006, a fairly light, spicy wine with cherry undertones.
Thick-sliced country bread was served in a basket.
When I spotted Ossau Iraty et confiture de cerises noires on the dessert menu, I realized that this was a rare opportunity to taste one of only two sheep’s milk cheeses in France granted AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) status. This limited-production cheese comes from the Basque region and is made with raw (unpasturized) milk. My choice was wise, for I received three thin slices of the hard cheese and a small ramekin of black-cherry jam. What a treat! The cheese tasted surprisingly sweet, and was made even sweeter with a dab of the cherry jam. An over-the-top pleasure.
My partner sprung for the Poire pochée, croustillant de marrons et whisky. She was served a baked pear encrusted with finely sliced almonds. The core was stuffed with sucre pétillant enrobé de chocolat, a child’s chocolate candy that sparkles in the mouth when chewed. The croustillant de marrons et whisky consisted of three wafer-thin layers of pastry that sandwiched a light chestnut-flavored cream. Although she could not taste the whisky, she declared the dessert a special treat.
The bill for two, including two apéritifs, two starters, two main dishes, two desserts, a half-bottle of wine, and one espresso came to 112.50€.
We think that diners who seek appetizing Mediterranean-style cuisine will surely want to try this restaurant.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
L’Orangerie
28, rue Saint-Louis-en-Ile
75004 Paris
Phone: 01.46.33.93.98
Metro Station: Sully Morland (Line 7)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues - Sun Noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, Amex
Until about a year ago, L’Orangerie was an expensive, upscale restaurant. More recently, with a change of ownership, the restaurant has lowered its prices, but happily, not the quality of the cuisine.
A château-like ambiance predominates in the dining room, with a large fireplace (not in use), bare-stone columns, a tile floor, and, on the tables, tall candles. Quite incongruously, the new management has adopted a cinematic theme, projecting movies dating from the 1940s on strategically placed screens on the walls. Framed photographs of movie stars also grace the walls. We found the moving images somewhat distracting, but the sound track was mute, so we adapted. Jazz from numerous French movie soundtracks played in the background. We found this to be quite pleasant!
We ordered two glasses of Pommery rosé to begin. The champagne arrived in tulip-shaped flutes along with a small serving of fromage fraîs (light sour cream) flavored with chopped shallot and accompanying slices of toast.
We both ordered the 35€ three-course menu. Sometimes, when one orders from a fixed-price menu in a fine-dining restaurant, there are not many choices. This menu, however, gave five choices, including a suggestion du jour, for each course. Because I wanted to see how much I would like the dishes that the restaurant did not prepare as a matter of routine, I requested the suggestion du jour for each course.
For the starter, I received a plate of Saumon mariné à l’aneth, salmon sliced 1/8” thick that had been marinated in olive oil and dill and garnished with a slice of lemon. A small ramekin of whipped cream flavored with chopped dill was served alongside. The dill marinade gave a sparkle of herbal flavor to the fresh salmon.
My partner ordered a Terrine de canard au poivre et baies de genièvre. She received a course duck pâté (slightly under-salted for her taste), along with a small dollop of delicately perfumed duck rillette (shredded, cooked duck meat). The rillette was flavored with sautéed grelot onions that had been slightly sweetened with sugar. Onion marmalade and two sliced gerkins garnished the dish.
The suggestion du jour for the main course was Poêlé de Saint-Jacques avec fondu de poireaux. Five perfectly-sautéed scallops were arranged around a monticule of chopped, sautéed leeks, all of which rested in a frothy, flavorsome broth. The scallops were nicely browned, succulent, and tender.
My partner opted for the Pièce du boucher selon le marché du jour, and was served a cut of sirloin garnished with shallot marmalade. This dish is normally served with gratin of potatoes, so she requested a substitute of green vegetables to avoid the additional carbohydrates of the potato side dish. She was delighted to receive a serving of buttery purée of broccoli, green string beans, and sautéed spinach leaves as a replacement. While she found the meat cooked medium as she had requested, it was slightly tough. Everything else was perfectly cooked.
To accompany the meal, I ordered a glass of Provence Château la Moutète 2007 and my partner ordered a glass of Bordeaux de Barbe 2004. Each wine was a fine accompaniment to our respective meals, just as our server predicted they would be.
My dessert was a Gratin d’ananas avec sorbet d’ananas – a serving of cooked, sweetened chunks of pineapple in an egg custard, passed under a flame, and topped with a scoop of pineapple sorbet. The flavor of this delicious dessert reminded me of the wonderful pineapple upside-down cake of my mother’s kitchen! And my partner did not complain about her Tiramisu maison, a large glass containing layers of coffee-flavored ladyfingers and mascarpone cream, and garnished with red currants and mint.
The service was more than satisfactory. The waitress graciously answered our questions about the ingredients of the food, and consulted the chef when she did not know the answers.
The bill for two, including two glasses of champagne, two glasses of wine, two three-course menus, and an espresso came to 114.00€.
We think that this restaurant will appeal to enthusiasts of old-time French cinema, as well as couples seeking a romantic place to dine. Not to mention diners fond of great cooking!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Les Fils de la Ferme
5, rue Mouton Duvernet
75014 Paris
Phone: 01.45.39.39.61
Metro Station: Mouton-Duvernet (Line
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues-Sat noon to 2:30 p.m., 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sun noon to 2:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
Les Fils de la Ferme offers a tempting 28€ three-course menu for both lunch and dinner service, with five choices for each course (some supplements may apply). Having business in the neighborhood, we recently stopped in for lunch.
Although a small restaurant, the tables are not crowded together, and we settled in comfortably. After we were seated, the waitress served an amuse-bouche that consisted of a delicious mixture of boudin noir (blood sausage) and apple compote. Slices of toast were served alongside. This was a mild, but tasty, dish that set the stage for the courses to come.
As an apéritif, we each ordered a glass of Muscat d’Alsace Domaine Loew 2008, a dry, pale-gold wine with a fruity bouquet from eastern France.
For the first course, I selected Carpaccio de tête de veau, gribiche à l’avocat et huile de pistache, and was served a plate of thinly sliced head cheese, garnished with vinaigrette consisting of chopped avocado, chopped pistachios, and pistachio oil. I rarely order carpaccio of anything, because it is usually a serving of thinly-sliced raw meat, but as I anticipated, the carpaccio of head cheese had been cooked. I was delighted with the taste of this dish.
My partner opted for Velouté de potimarron, raviolis croustillantes et cannelle. She was pleased that the steaming-hot pumpkin soup was light and frothy, yet not overly creamy. It was flavored with cinnamon and crunchy mini-raviolis stuffed with Parmesan cheese. A sprig of cilantro topped the soup and a swirl of balsamic vinegar graced the serving dish.
I found the main course as satisfying as the starter. I ordered the Civet de biche, jus acidulé aux griottes and received a dish of stewed deer resting in sweet, dark gravy flavored with Morello cherries. Accompanying the meat were potatoes, parsnips, carrots, mushrooms, and celery root.
My partner was not quite satisfied with her Côte de cochon rôtie, choux de Bruxelle au jus, as she found the roasted pork chop to be somewhat overcooked. Nevertheless, she declared the flavor and color of the meat agreeable. It was served on a bed of Brussels sprouts that had been cut in half and placed in a shallow pool of broth. A wedge of carrot and a sprig of Italian parsley garnished the dish.
To accompany our meal, we each selected a glass of Pic Saint-Loup Château de Lancyre 2007. It was a dark-purple wine with a fruity bouquet and a hint of blueberry.
Thick-cut baguette and thinly-sliced country bread were placed alongside in a basket.
Our desserts provided a wonderful ending to the meal. I opted for the Feuilleté de poire, crème Williamine, a poached, sugared pear resting on a bed of flaky pastry that had been filled with Williamine-flavored whipped cream. My partner ordered the Brie de Meaux, reduction balsa-truffes. This was a modest wedge of brie that had been sliced horizontally and filled with truffle-flavored mascarpone. A thin ribbon of balsamic vinegar and essence of truffle garnished the plate and added balance to the quite salty, but delicious, cheese.
The service was efficient, friendly, and correct. Our waitress was knowledgeable about the ingredients in the dishes that we were served as well as the composition of the wines that we selected.
The bill for two, including two wine apéritifs, two glasses of wine, two three-course menus, and one espresso, came to 79.50€.
This is the second time that we have dined at this restaurant, and we recommend it without hesitation for informal dining.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
L’Autre Café
62, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud
75011 Paris
Phone: 01.40.21.03.07
Metro Station: Parmentier (Line 3)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Open every day from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 a.m.
Credit card: Visa
With chalkboards announcing prices of food and drink affixed to its bright red façade at the corner of rues Jean-Pierre Timbaud and Edouard Lockroy, L’Autre Café beckons the hungry diner to enter. Make no mistake about this place – it offers good food at good prices!
The interior is spacious, with a bar standing at the wall opposite the entryway. Shelves reaching up to the ceiling support bottles of alcohol, as well as a shot-dispensing system for thirty-six different spirits. Pendant lamps hang over the aluminum countertop of the bar, and newspaper sticks and magazine racks hold reading material. In the dining area, dark wooden tables and chairs or red vinyl benches provide a place to sit and eat. The overall atmosphere of this place is informal.
Since the dining service is continuous from noon to midnight, we were able to arrive at 6:30 p.m. and get seated for an early dinner.
I spotted the 16€ dish of the day on the chalkboard, and decided to order that, while my partner selected a 13€ Salade biquette as her main course.
My order consisted of a plate containing Côte de veau, purée d’olive noire et salade composée. The cutlet was about an inch thick. It was moist and tender…in a word, delicious! Indeed, I have rarely eaten a veal chop that tasted so good. Alongside was a generous serving of mashed potatoes prepared with purée of black olives. I had anticipated that the olives would give the mashed potatoes a salty taste, but found that the preparation was perfectly seasoned. The salad consisted of radicchio, sliced red and yellow onions, julienne carrots, lentils, quinoa, zucchini, and tomato, all seasoned with light vinaigrette.
To accompany the meal, I ordered a glass of Minervois, a so-called ”bistrot” wine from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. The wine had the color of dark plum; it was medium bodied with soft tannins, and had a hint of black cherry flavor.
My partner’s Salade biquette (goat cheese salad) consisted of three rounds of goat cheese on toast resting atop a heaping salad of mixed greens, sun-dried tomatoes, and grilled, marinated red pepper, eggplant, and zucchini. The salad was delicately dressed with balsamic vinaigrette. The serving was quite large, and my partner consumed it all, declaring it a perfect salad.
Her choice of wine was a Viognier, a vin de pays from the Languedoc region. It was medium-yellow in color, medium-bodied, and slightly dry, yet fruity.
For dessert, she ordered a hot chocolate, but was not satisfied with the beverage. Its flavor seemed weak compared to the hot chocolate that she has tasted in other cafés around Paris.
While we dined, music from the film Summer of ’42 played over the speaker system.
The service was efficient and correct.
The bill for two, including the menu of the day, the Salade biquette, two glasses of wine, one espresso, and a large, hot chocolate came to 44.10€.
This is the second time that we have dined at L’Autre Café and we recommend it for travelers who seek informal ambiance, good food, and an inexpensive place to dine.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Lilane
8, rue Gracieuse
75005 Paris
Phone: 01.45.87.90.68
Metro Station: Place Monge (Line 7)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues-Thurs noon to 2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., Fri noon to 2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., Sat 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa
Located on the corner of rues Gracieuse and Pestalozzi, the sober, dark-brown façade of this restaurant gives a subtle hint of the sublime dining experience that one will enjoy here. Stepping into the restaurant, one enters a dining area that radiates subdued, warm tones of brown. Glassware sparkles on the tables and on the shelves of the bar and hutch, and teardrop-shaped elements of the light fixtures add a touch of out-of-this-world fantasy. The dining area displays an aura of formal elegance, yet the easy-going manner of Leila, the head waitress, signals that the service will be relaxed, but correct.
After we were seated, we were served an amuse bouche consisting of a small goblet containing cream of carrot soup, topped with a light crème fraîche. As we consumed this appetizing dish, I remembered that most of the food served here is prepared with cream as a basic ingredient. This restaurant is not a place for diners on a restrictive diet!
For the first course, I ordered a Pain brioché au crabe, emulsion de crevettes rose, consisting of a bread roll enriched with egg and butter that had been stuffed with crab and leek. The roll was served floating in a shallow bowl containing a rich emulsion of shrimp. The crab meat stuffing inside the roll was tender and delicious. This was a dish designed for sea-food lovers who had died and gone to heaven!
My partner ordered Royale de foie gras et velouté de céleri, an extremely rich emulsion of foie gras and small morsels of diced celery, topped with a gentle froth. The celery was sautéed and had therefore lost its crunch and some of its flavor, so one could easily mistake the soft celery for bits of foie gras. Though bursting with flavor, the portion was a tad large given the richness of the dish. My partner wondered if she’d be able to finish it, let alone the main dish that was to come.
For the second course, I ordered Pavé de turbot, risotto de tomates et petits pois. The turbot had been lightly baked, which accounted for its moist consistency, and was served on a bed of risotto, cooked al dente with tomatoes and green peas. The flesh of the tender turbot provided a textural counterpoint to the firm risotto.
My partner ordered Filet de biche rôti, purée de pomme de terre aux truffes. This consisted of four portions of deer meat, each more than an inch thick and cut slightly on the bias, atop a bed of puréed potatoes studded with fine morsels of black truffle. The meat was mildly flavored, tender, and juicy, while the potatoes were ever so slightly grainy in texture and not over-laden with cream. The flavor of the truffles was subtle, which was a plus because it could have easily overwhelmed the flavor of the deer. My partner lamented that Lilane did not serve any green vegetables with this dish, but otherwise said that it was the perfect main course.
For the dessert, I had ordered in advance the Soufflé au chocolat. The soufflé arrived, looking ever so much like a little chef’s hat. The interior contained sweet, unctuous, dark chocolate and had the consistency of a creamy chocolate pudding. I found the taste to be more like a moelleux au chocolat, a warm chocolate cake with a runny interior, than that of a soufflé. Whatever it was, a soufflé or a moelleux, the taste was exquisite!
My partner ordered Macaron à la cacahuète, mousse vanille for dessert. She received two macarons, one round, the other shaped like a ladyfinger. Both were vanilla-flavored, and their thick, creamy filling exploded with peanut flavor. The vanilla mousse, served in a small glass with a spoon, was actually melted vanilla ice cream served at room temperature. It was an unusual, though harmonious, accompaniment. The garnishes for the dessert, consisting of raspberry coulis, a kumquat, an entire vanilla bean, and a mint sprig, were creative and beautifully executed.
To accompany the meal, I ordered a glass of white Burgundy wine, called Domaine Trapet – 2008, made from Chardonnay grapes. The wine was balanced – neither fruity nor dry – providing a good complement to my turbot dish. My partner started with a glass of Drappier Rosé champagne, made from 100% Pinot Noir, and finished with a glass of Domaine la Rouviole Minervois – 2004.
The bill for two, including two starters, two main courses, two desserts, a glass of champagne, two glasses of wine, and a single espresso came to 92.50€.
The service was efficient, friendly, and correct.
Having dined here on several occasions, we have no qualms about recommending this restaurant to travelers to Paris who are seeking a moderately priced restaurant serving great French cuisine in a romantic setting.
Pomze: The Pleasure is in the Apple
By Guest Food Critic, Lindsey Tramuta of Lost in Cheeseland
Where do you go for an inventive, high quality meal in Paris that doesn’t leave you feeling like you need to unbutton your pants halfway through the meal? On Boulevard Haussmann, two minutes from the Saint Augustin Church, is a real gastronomical treasure. Pomze (the word for apple in French is pomme)is original and innovative, built entirely around the theme of apples. From the deco of the restaurant and the gourmet shop on the bottom floor right down to the cider cellar and dishes proposed on the menu, everything is inspired by the Daniel Dayan’s passion for apples. (more…)
Café des Musées
49, rue de Turenne
75003 Paris
Phone: 01.42.72.96.17
Metro Station: Metro station: Chemin Vert (Line
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon-Fri 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Sat-Sun 10:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, Amex
We have not dined at this restaurant for a number of years, but have continued to read good things about it. Last Friday night, we set out to see if the food was as good as we remembered it.
The décor of the restaurant is a wonderful example of old-time bistrot style, with tile floors, café curtains at the windows, medium-toned wooden tables and bentwood chairs closely juxtaposed, and posters, photographs, and chalkboards affixed to the walls. The speaker system was broadcasting a variety of music (Radio FIP) the night we dined there. We have two other noteworthy observations: an open kitchen stands near the entrance to the restaurant (a change since the last time that we visited) and the waiters and waitresses are young and of cheery disposition!
I ordered the menu of the day, priced at only 19€. The starter consisted of soup, called Crème Dubarry, the main course was Cuisse de canard au vin du Lubéron et aux olives Calamata, polenta crèmeuse, and the dessert, a Far Bréton.
My partner ordered à la carte and chose the same starter as mine, a main course of Blanquette de veau du Limosin à l ‘Ancienne, and a Tarte aux pommes avec amandes grillées for dessert.
The starter was a smooth potato and cauliflower soup punctuated with young sprigs of cilantro, and containing tiny morsels of cauliflower. We tucked into this dish with gusto and were pleased that it had just a touch of creaminess and an offsetting crunch of cauliflower bits.
My main course was leg of duck cooked in wine from Lubéron, a mountainous region in the south of France, accompanied by black Calamata olives from Greece. This delicious, hearty dish was served with polenta, a culinary preparation made from yellow cornmeal. I enjoy trying polenta dishes whenever I get a chance because polenta is served in so many different ways: as a thick porridge, as a pan-fried cake, and as dense cornbread. This particular dish was a surprise: it was light and creamy, like a fluffy omelet.
My partner enjoyed her main course of veal stew “prepared in the old Limousin way.” She received a generous portion of veal, topped with Italian parsley, large pearl onions, and quartered button mushrooms. The gravy in which the veal rested was not overly creamy—a good thing in her view! A large portion of fluffy, white rice topped with cilantro was served on the side.
My dessert was the Far Breton. I had anticipated receiving a dense, custard-like prune tart, which is traditional for far, but was nonetheless pleased to get a prune tart that looked like a coffee roll. It was drizzled with caramel sauce and sprinkled with powdered sugar. No complaints here!
My partner’s lightly-sweetened apple tart had a tender, shortbread crust and was topped with sliced, grilled almonds. This was a tall, abundant tart with chunks of apple, not the flat tart with apples sliced razor-thin that is commonly served in Paris restaurants. The plate was drizzled with caramel sauce and crème anglaise, which provided a tasty accent to the beautifully prepared tart.
I finished the meal with a digestif—a 4 cl glass of Le Père Jules Calvados Pays d’Auge 10 ans. It was a wonderful ending to a fine meal!
The service was efficient, correct, and quite friendly.
The bill for two, including two glasses of champagne, two glasses of wine, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, and one calvados came to 80.40€.
NB: The restaurant has two sittings, one at 7:00 p.m. and the other at 9:00 p.m.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
La Cave Gourmande
10, rue du Général-Brunet
75019 Paris
Phone: 01.40.40.03.30
Metro Station: Botzaris (Line 7b) or Place des Fêtes (Lines 7b and 11)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues-Fri noon to 2:30 p.m., 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Sat 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Credit card: Visa
We recently attended the outstanding exposition We Want Miles at the Cité de la Musique, located on the northern edge of Paris in the 19th arrondissement. As the exhibit did not open until noon, we decided to have lunch in a local restaurant before proceeding there. There is a dearth of good bistrots in the 19th arrondissement, but with a little research, we were able to find La Cave Gourmande.
Arriving at the restaurant at 1:00 p.m., we quickly learned that we had made a good choice. The interior is spacious and inviting, with polished tables and chairs of dark wood, an off-white tile floor, and shelves against the walls displaying bottles of wine. A beautiful bouquet of purple zinnias graced the table at which we sat.
After we were seated, the waitress proposed an apéritif. We selected Côteaux du Layon, a naturally sweet white wine from the region of Anjou. Along with the beverage, the waitress placed a tray of crudités (strips of raw carrot, celery, and radish served with onion dip) on the table.
For the starter, I ordered the Sauté de poulpe de la Carbonara, an Italian-inspired dish of octopus and lardons (diced bacon), which gave the food a salty flavor. I ordered this starter because I do not often see octopus on the menu, and I found the Carbonara preparation hearty and satisfying. My partner ordered the Samoussa de gibiers à plumes, lentils corail et yaourt au coriander. Samoussa (spelled samosa in English) is a brick pastry with filled with meat and / or vegetables, and in this case, the stuffing was wild fowl. It was served with yellow, split lentils seasoned with lime leaves, and a ramekin of yogurt flavored with coriander. Though my partner thought that the dish was quite flavorful, she found the samoussa to be rather dry.
For the main course, I ordered the Perdreau rouge à la goutte de sang, or red partridge cooked in its own blood. The bird was served in its gravy on a bed of tagliatelle, or flat ribbons of pasta. This was delicious food for the season. I found the bird to taste slightly gamey, which, after all, is what a game bird is supposed to taste like! My partner ordered the Civet de biche, a stew of wild deer served in a sauce with baby turnips, onions, and carrots on the side.
We selected wine by the glass to accompany our meal. I chose a white Macon Village, which was slightly tangy, like green apple. My partner chose a red Bordeaux Grave Château Le Bonnat 2007.
For dessert, we each ordered Profiteroles aux marrons glacés. This was a generous portion of three puff pastries sandwiching chestnut-flavored ice cream and topped with sliced almonds and chocolate syrup. The mounds of ice cream with their puff pastry hats looked ever so much like the dancing mushrooms of the Walt Disney film Fantasia. A sweet, decadent finish to a satisfying meal!
The service was efficient and correct.
The bill for two, including two aperitifs, two starters, two main dishes, four glasses of wine and one espresso came to 117.50€.
Toward the end of the service, Chef Mark Singer came into the dining area and chatted with the customers. Originally from Philadelphia, he has been living in Paris for forty years. It was a pleasure to meet and talk with him!
Kitchen Galerie Bis
25, rue des Grands Augustins
75006 Paris
Phone: 01.46.33.00.85
Metro Station: Odéon (Lines 4, 10), Saint-Michel (Line 4)
Type of cuisine: Asian- and Mediterranean- inspired French cuisine
Days & hours of operation: Tues-Sat noon-2:30 p.m., 7:00 p.m.- 11:00 p.m.
Credit card: Visa, Amex, MC
This spacious, modern restaurant decorated in minimalist style is host to flavorsome cuisine, inspired by Asian and Mediterranean herbs and savors.
I started with three “zors-d’œuvre” consisting of separate, small servings of bream in a dumpling that had been cooked in coconut milk; chopped parsnip cooked in a bouillon flavored with black sesame seed; and an oyster served with finely diced apple and yuzu. This latter ingredient is a citrus fruit from Asia whose flavor resembles grapefruit. As the hors-d’œuvre were not listed by name on the menu, I presume that they are prepared according to the whim of the chef for that particular seating. I found the three starters to have wonderful, tantalizing flavors.
For the main course, I ordered the seafood of the day, a serving of scallops in a “kalamansi condiment,” an Asian sweet-and-sour citrus fruit (sweet rind, sour pulp). The scallops were served with fresh vegetables cooked al dente and garnished with Thai basil and lemon grass. As with the three “zors- d’œuvre” that preceded it, I found the flavors of this dish to be tempting and appetizing.
My partner forewent the starters and ordered Porc noir de Bigorre rôti, condiment pomme – mostarda as her main course. The meat came from the black pig of Bigorre, a beautiful purebred animal raised in the Hautes Pyrénées of southwest France. It was served with apple and mostarda, an Italian condiment made of candied fruit and mustard-flavored syrup. Wedges of brightly-colored vegetables, halved baby potatoes, and Thai basil nested in the ceramic marmite along with the apple to decorate the dish and to provide a tasty accompaniment for the incredibly tender and flavorful pork. The slightly sweet sauce left in the bottom of the dish was so tempting that my partner used more than one morsel of fresh, country bread to ensure that she had sopped up every drop!
To accompany my dish, I ordered a glass of Menetou salon “Morogues” H. Pellé 2008, a pale wine with a lemon-green tinge and mineral and green grass aromas. My partner ordered a Côtes du Rhône Domaine de la Réméjeanne 2008, a dark-red, supple wine with mellow tannins.
Thick-cut baguette was served alongside in a wooden tray.
For dessert, I opted for the Banane caramélisée, sorbet ananas - yuzu, a caramelized banana served with pineapple and yuzu sorbet. Part of the sliced banana was served with caramel syrup that had crystallized, and the other part with syrup that was still viscous. The banana had been cooked in its skin. What a delicious treat! My partner selected Madeleine d’Agrumes, Glace Gingembre – a ginger-studded Madeleine cake with ginger ice cream atop an orange coulis. She found this to be light and refreshing, with the candied ginger providing a pleasant crunch that contrasted with the silkiness of the ice cream and the moistness of the cake.
Service was efficient and correct.
The bill for two, including two glasses of champagne, three “zors-d’œuvre,” two main courses, two glasses of wine, and one espresso came to 123.50€.
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.
Le Comptoir des Artistes
25, rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin
75010 Paris
Phone: 01.42.08.34.33
Metro Station: Strasbourg Saint-Denis (Line 4)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Mon-Sat noon-2:30 p.m., 7:00 p.m.-midnight
Credit card: Visa, MC, Amex
Le Comptoir des Artistes is located in one of Paris’s theater districts, hence its name, which translates as “the artists’ bar.” The interior of the restaurant is subdued, with plush, red velour benches and chairs; dark, wooden tables; velour-textured wallpaper with matching curtains; and a dark, wooden floor. The overall effect looks quite swanky!
When we entered for lunch a few minutes before opening time on a recent Saturday, the director of the restaurant, Olivier Descouts, immediately snapped to attention and bid us welcome. From that time on his service was attentive and correct, even as the dining room began filling up with other customers.
We ordered apéritifs of kir and red port wine, and were served hors d’oeuvres consisting of black olives and salted peanuts.
For the starter, I opted for the Escargots de Bourgogne sauvages et rattes de Noirmoutier en poëlée. This was an exceptional dish of wild snails from Burgundy and potatoes from the Island of Noirmoutier. I rarely order snails because they are usually prepared with lots of garlic, but this dish was prepared with butter and minced parsley, with very little garlic. It was a delicious dish, and I was glad that I had overruled my aversion to this pungent ingredient. My partner ordered the Ravioles de Royans aux fromages, fondue de tomate. This is a traditional dish from Royans, consisting of tiny raviolis stuffed with cheese and herbs. The pasta was served in a cheesy cream sauce with a dollop of reduced tomatoes on top. Because it was served in a platter with a deep center and a wide brim, the portion was larger than it appeared, and my partner wondered whether or not she would be able to tackle the main course.
My main course was also exceptional. I ordered Saint Jacques beurre blanc au Noilly Prat, juilliène de poireaux. I received six plump, succulent scallops prepared in a hot butter sauce made with a reduction of Noilly Prat, a vermouth from Marseillan in southern France. The side dish was a creamy portion of jullienned leeks. My partner chose the Suprême de volaille de Bresse aux morilles. The breast and upper part of the wing were served in a caramel-colored sauce dotted with a few morel mushrooms. A large portion of white rice was served alongside. The skin of the bird was blackened and had a burnt flavor. The breast was unevenly cooked, such that some areas were perfectly tender while others were a tad dry. Overall, my partner was disappointed with this dish.
To accompany the meal we ordered Meursault by the glass. This white wine from the Burgundy region of France is made with 100% Chardonnay grapes. We enjoyed its aromas of almond, apple, and nut immensely.
Warm bread rolls were served alongside in a basket.
Dessert was the pièce de résistance of the meal. I ordered Crêpes Suzette en cassoulette de cuivre, Grand Marnier rouge, and received a flaming crêpe folded in quarters, soaked in Grand Marnier, and served in a copper cassoulette. The bitter-sweet flavor of the Grand Marnier was intense, with bits of orange peel adding zest to the dish. My partner opted for a Tarte fine aux figues et glace vanille, which consisted of a buttery crust layered with thinly sliced, partially dried figs topped with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream. A caramel sauce, a dusting of powdered sugar, and a sprig of red currants served as garnish. My partner considered this to be the best part of her meal.
The bill for two, including two aperitifs, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, and three glasses of Meursault came to 139€.
