September Events in Paris: Eye Need to Do’s
It’s September in Paris, and Parisians are returning from les vacances. That means things are picking up in the French capital, with some of the fall’s best cultural events lining up, including the ones Richard Nahem, our Eye Prefer Paris guru, thinks are the best of the best in the City of Lights. (more…)
Paris Design: Maison et Objet
Story and photos by Claudia Strasser
Years ago, when I discovered the Maison et Objet, I knew I’d found Mecca. (more…)
Ice Cold Drinks in Paris: The Search for Cool Cocktails
Story and photos by Forest Collins for Haven in Paris
Forest Collins, the savvy writer behind discriminating Paris cocktail blog 52 Martinis, shares with us here her frustrations with France’s strange aversion to H2O’s solid incarnation. She also has the low-down on where to go for seriously refreshing cocktails. Hint: it’s not your corner bistrot. (more…)
Paris: A Dream Come True
Story and photographs by Pia Jane Bijkerk
Once upon a time there was a little girl who heard about a beautiful, enchanting city in a land far far away where people wore berets, ate something called ‘baguette’, and spoke what she immediately decided must be one of the prettiest languages in the world. She learnt about all the ancient stone buildings that stood tall and magnificent along the long, winding river that ran through the middle of the city, and she listened to songs sung in this pretty language. The little girl fell in love with the idea of this magical city, and consequently spent many hours, days, months, and years dreaming about what it might be like to wander its cobblestones streets. Time went by and life went on but still, the idea of this city and the country it was a part of remained in her heart and in her dreams.
Paris Tourist Scams: HiP Tips For A Hassle-Free Trip
Story by Maggie Battista, Haven in Paris Correspondent
I was lucky enough to live in Paris earlier this year. During my time in one of the fairest cities, I soaked up the language, tossed back (a few too) many glasses of red and practically inhaled the food. I also wandered, a lot. I’m the sort of tourist who likes to explore the nooks and crannies, those precious spots that are forgotten on a map but hold a special magic beyond the typical grand Paris sites. (more…)
Paris from the Inside: An Apartment Renovation
Story by Linda Donahue
Erica Berman has a gift. She can look at a crumbling shell of a hovel and see its potential as a beautiful apartment. This gift has served her well over her 18 years living in Paris, as she’s renovated upwards of 15 apartments that started out as “blah” (at best), only to be transformed into “wow.” (more…)
Visiting Paris? Follow These Rules.
Story by Lindsey Tramuta
Anyone who has ever prepared for a trip to Paris has undoubtedly asked themselves the same question … a question based largely on stereotypes and media depictions: “Aren’t the Parisians rude?”
Well, yes and no.
While they are most certainly less gregarious and smiley than their Anglophone counterparts, Parisians are not always as surly and difficult as their reputation precedes them. There are certain rules, often tacit, that Parisians expect people to follow. This is true for locals and tourists and can be applied to any city. New Yorkers, for example, aren’t exactly the image of friendliness and hospitality, having to contest their own somewhat dubious reputation.
Yet perhaps what is problematic is the word tourist as it immediately turns an otherwise intelligent, cultured individual into a fumbling, oblivious imbecile. Let me give you an example. Recently, I was waiting in line at a busy clothing store when an American woman in her forties, visibly wealthy and sporting bright green sweat pants with PINK written on the bum (Victoria’s Secret trademark), waltzed up to one of the cashiers and loudly hurled, “Where are your bathrooms?”
“Bonjour,” replied the cashier. (Take note, this is mistake number one).
“Yeah, hi. Where are your restrooms? “
“We don’t have any.”
“Well, where am I supposed to go? “ she asked impatiently. (Sense of entitlement.)
“Across the street. There’s a public toilet.” (Read: not my problem.)
“Ugh, okay thanks,” she retorted dryly.
She then proceeded to speak as loudly as she could, making herself seen from all angles of the store, while irritated onlookers (and me, the ashamed American) rolled their eyes and sighed heavily, in true Parisian fashion.
This segues nicely into my rules (and suggestions) for tourists in Paris:
1) The cardinal rule: Say “bonjour” – even in your most atrocious French – when you approach people.
When you are at the airport (having not yet realized that all the signs are in French AND English) and searching for someone to ask how to get to the train to the city, say “bonjour” first. When you enter a shop, bakery, or restaurant, do not forget to say “bonjour,” preferably sans the toothy, over-excited grin. Saying “au revoir” will win you points as well.
2) Lost? Move over!
Do not stop dead in your tracks in the middle of the sidewalk or directly in front of the metro turnstile blocking Parisians from slithering through to get to their final destination (surely some kind of fashion exhibit, no?). What is it that physically prevents people from moving off to the side to find their way?
3) Stay on the right side of the sidewalk.
Traveling in groups of more than two does not give you the right to monopolize the walkway. I know, the beauty of Paris is so breathtaking that you can’t help but stroll aimlessly to take it all in. I completely understand. Just stroll in a more orderly fashion. This seems to be a point of contention in any tourist city so I propose following in the footsteps of NYC’s Improv Everywhere group and create pedestrian traffic lanes, separating Parisians from visitors. I would love to see it implemented not only on sidewalks but in the metro stations as well.
4) Show cleavage or leg, never both.
Girls often complain about getting harassed by men in Paris yet, to be fair, their idea of dressing-up is wearing as little clothing as possible. (American and English girls, you know who you are.) Think twice before you wear that mini skirt and breast-bursting top. As a rule of thumb, French women show a little cleavage or a little leg, but not both. Revealing too much verges on being excessively promiscuous and since being perceived as slutty is a French woman’s worst nightmare, it should be avoided at all costs. In a country where sexual harassment policies barely exist, you should also keep in mind that American and English women have a reputation for being easy. Sartorial discretion is therefore recommended.
5) Blend in.
If you’re studying French at the Sorbonne all summer, you’re still a tourist. We know this because you travel in packs, lack volume control, and are swept off your feet at every feeble pick-up line from any scrawny French guy, no matter how desperate or unattractive. Take the excitement down a notch, lower your voice and realize that you’re garnering yourself negative attention. Important: do not assume the French don’t understand what you’re saying about them in English. This is where using indoor voices will come in handy.
Ready?
Overall, the French do not like when tourists show up and act like they own the place, disregarding local customs and etiquette. No, Parisian waiters are not going to cook your dish in light oil instead of butter, even if you smile widely when you ask them. No, Parisians are not going to stop and ask you if you need help finding your way (but will help if asked) and no, Parisians are not going to make small talk with you on the metro. But Parisians are no worse than other people. They simply want to see that you’re TRYING to adapt to their culture. So read up a little, leave your Victoria Secret sweatpants at home and speak whatever French you can muster. I assure you, you will leave unscathed!
Philadelphia native Lindsey Tramuta came to Paris to go to school and stayed on because she fell in love with her now-husband Cédric. This marketing and communications professional also loves food, music and reading. And she willingly shares her often-amusing views on life as an expat in Paris in her blog, Lost In Cheeseland. Photo courtesy of joshuaphilippesy.
Strolling in Paris: Let Me Count the Ways
Story by Tory Hoen, Haven in Paris Correspondent
Flâner has always been one of my favorite French verbs. The dictionary definition reads “se promener sans but précis” (to walk without a precise goal). Since aimless wandering is basically my raison d’etre in Paris, I appreciate that the French have a word dedicated to the act.
But here’s the kicker: they don’t have just one word for it. My thesaurus indicates that flâner has twelve synonyms. TWELVE synonyms, all of which convey the idea of slowly walking for the sake of walking. I’m the first to admit that walking rules—in fact, I do it quite often—but twelve synonyms? Surely the French have crossed the line into excess.
But no, my friends, no! Spend some time in Paris and you will quickly understand how many different types of strolling there are—I would argue that twelve is, in fact, a vast understatement. In addition to flâner, we have déambuler (to stroll), errer (to march here and there, at random), se promener (to walk oneself… as if you were your own French bulldog), vagabonder… you get the idea.
And in addition to the twelve official ways of walking, I’ve developed a few of my own “walks” that don’t yet seem to have formal labels:
The backwards walk. This comes in handy when I need to head east, but the Eiffel Tower is doing its sparkling thing, so rather than turn my back on it, I just walk backwards until it’s done, trying my best not to stumble off a bridge.
The “I’m not lost” walk. Naturally, I do this one when I’m lost. The key is to walk really slowly so you appear to be flâner–ing (just taking it all in… nothing to see here), but really you are retracing your steps, or turning in circles, or wondering if that’s the same Franprix you passed twenty minutes ago. It’s ok; wherever you’re going, you’ll get there eventually, and in the meantime, you’re lost in Paris. How romantic!
The walk of NO shame. The sun is up, and yet, having hopped from bar to bar, I have not yet gone home for the night, and my outfit now seems highly inappropriate. Rather than running for cover, I simply stroll through whatever open-air market I come to, eying the produce like the savvy early-morning shopper I am pretending to be. (Then I buy a baguette and eat it in bed before I fall asleep for the rest of the morning).
The post-dinner walk. It’s sloowwww. It’s happy. It sometimes stumbles off the curb a little bit. It leads you to your bed, where you may or may not collapse without taking your shoes off. Oh well.
But no matter how I’m walking, or where I’m going, there’s no other city I’d rather be doing it in. What about you, readers? How do you walk in Paris?
Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris. Top photo by Madcowk.
Get Blitzed at Paris’ New Tequila Bar
Story by Sophie Delon
In January, the first bar in Paris dedicated to all things tequila opened in the 8th arrondissement. It was mean to be a temporary “pop-up” bar, but Blitz Bar proved itself so successful, it’s now become a permanent fixture in the French capital. (more…)
The Buzz on Paris Honey
Edited by Sophie Delon
The artist and urban beekeeper Olivier Darné sets up beehives and transforms Paris into a place for gathering nectar. In this insightful interview, he tells us about his career and the initiatives of his association, the “Parti Poétique.” He also explains his two major projects: the Miel Béton, honey produced in Paris, and the Banque du Miel, a temporary meeting and tasting space for the general public. Read on for an encounter with a very atypical artist. (more…)
Exercise in Paris: How To Work Out Without Really Trying
Story by Tory Hoen, Haven in Paris Correspondent
When I first moved to Paris, there was a billboard near my apartment that advertised a French chain of gyms. It pictured a somewhat wan man in a dress shirt, seated, calmly smiling but looking somewhat unsure of what to do with the small hand weight he was gripping. You could easily have Photoshopped an espresso in place of the weight, and it would have made just as much sense (if not more). This offers a telling glimpse into the French psyche, I thought. (more…)
August Events in Paris: Eye Need to Do’s
Sure, it’s August, and many Parisians have abandoned the city for les vacances. But for those who haven’t fled to the country – and those who are visiting the city – there are lots of fun ways to enjoy the French capital. In fact, some of the best cultural events and festivals can be found in August, including the ones Richard Nahem, our Eye Prefer Paris guru, thinks are the best of the best in the City of Lights. (more…)
The Perfect Parisian Picnic: Top Spots
Story by Tory Hoen, Haven in Paris Correspondent. Photographs by Mark Nunez.
Picnic season is in full swing in Paris, and because nearly everything (eating included) is better when done outdoors, now is the time to take advantage of the city’s myriad picnic spots. While lunch in Paris is often a serious sit-down affair, summer loosens people up, and you’ll notice everyone from schoolchildren to businessmen grabbing a sandwich and a spot on the nearest bench to mellow out for a bit. (more…)
Finding My Way Home in Paris
Story by Linda Donahue
Parisians are a territorial people. They tend to shop, eat and socialize within the confines of the arrondissement where they dwell. And because moving from apartment to apartment is as complicated a process as you can imagine within the city, Parisians stay put. Of course, that imposes a whole new level of pressure on a person looking for a new home in the French capital. (more…)
My Paris Favorites: A Letter from Beth Arnold
Introduction by Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief. Photographs from Beth Arnold.
I knew I’d like Beth Arnold before I even met her. I liked her for her writing – her “Letter from Paris” features on Huffington Post have always been a must-read for me – and her witty Tweets. I adored her professional pedigree, which included writing for Rolling Stone, GQ, InStyle, Self, American Way, Premiere and Mirabella, along with Salon.com and Vogue.com. And I liked what she called her “previous life” background – a Master of Social Work that she put to use in a community mental health center. (more…)
Le Brunch: Paris’ New Favorite Meal
Story by Tory Hoen, Haven in Paris Correspondent
At the risk of sounding cranky, there are two things I hate that everyone else seems to love: brunch and bowling. In my humble opinion, both are a lot more trouble than they’re worth. We’ll leave bowling for another day, but for now, brunch. It’s not the actual food I object to—it’s the scene, particularly in New York, where a 1-2 hour wait at popular spots is standard. Seriously… who wants an omelet that badly? (more…)
Bringing Parisian Style Home from the Fleas
Story and photos by Claudia Strasser
Because I hang out at flea markets in Paris, I tend to hear the same comments over and over from American tourists. Yet it never ceases to amaze me:
Men: “There’s nothing but old junk here.”
Women: “There are no bargains in Paris anymore.”
Nothing could be further from the truth. These people are just scanning the surface, not honing in on the delicious layers that create the Paris flea markets.
Truth is, it’s impossible to go to a Paris flea market and not find a one of a kind, museum-quality trinket for 1euro.
In fact, you could shop any of the flea markets in one weekend and furnish your entire home as if it were a château or a cottage en Provence for next to nothing.
Basically, the flea markets are the treasure chests of the world, brimming with everything from entire paneled rooms to a century old diary. The trick is finding the bargains, then getting them home. C’est simple!
What to look for:
It’s easy to stroll by a table and dismiss it but there’s a lot more to a dealer’s wares than meets the eye. In fact, I’m willing to say that almost every vendor has something uniquely special if you look very close. It may be the size of a button, but it’s there. At all markets, there are two kinds of vendors. Those who practice the art of display and lovingly curate their collection, and those who don’t.
How to find it:
You can find good deals with either type, but those who don’t are generally more interested in sales volume than what the actual item is. Sure, they may know a set of dishes is Limoges or the silverware is sterling, but they don’t take the time to clean them because they’d just rather move it. If you’re on the hunt then get down and and dig in.
Paris fleas aren’t like ours where a box of kitchen junk is filled with Tupperware. In Paris a box of junk may have iron candlesticks, antique serving trays and letters from the 1700s.
If you just want a souvenier or memento, check a dealer’s tiny boxes they have on the table. You never know what can turn up, from a monogrammed stamp with your initials to embroidered pillowcases, a love letter or a locket.
How to buy it:
Bargaining is acceptable in any market around the world and France is no exception. If you make an offer, just be respectful. Flea marketers are hard working people who travel to find unusual things, clean, repair and research them. They haul out, unpack, and face the elements each weekend to bring this magic right to you!
You’re bound to fall in love in Paris, so why fight it? But what you fall in love with will determine how to get it home. If it’s furniture, you’ll need a shipper, so I recommend a to visit Clignancourt before all other markets. And the shippers are all there so you can so you can visit a few and see what services they offer. It’s a good place to start cause it’s the mecca of markets you’ll never see it all.
Some deliver door to door and others drop at a port and you pick it up. See what works best for you). You’ll set up an account for free and get book of receipts. When you buy something, the dealer will write out his information on one of the copies and deliver it to the shipper. You’ll give the shipper your book to confirm those and any items you’d like picked up. Then you can pay when it’s all been collected. Strange as it is, a ‘hold’ is often as good as a ‘sold’ cause you can work things on a handshake. Just be sure to honor it!
Once you have a shipper, you’ll have an account number and can tell vendors at other markets where to deliver your gems for consolidation without hesitation.
Clignancourt is open Fridays and Mondays till 1pm and all weekend till about 6pm.
For shippers, I recommend Camard or Hedley’s in the center of Cligancourt.
Of course shipping furniture can add a bit to the cost so negotiate that in when you’re bargaining and always ask for the price ‘pour export’.
Shippers charge by cubic meter, so if you have an armoire, you’re free to fill it with all your goodies from linens to chandeliers.
Finally, forget your misconceptions about shipping; That you need to fill a container, that it’s expensive, there are taxes…once you get past the unknown a new world opens up. You may just find yourself with a brand new hobby.
Bon shopping!
Do you have a question about flea market style for Claudia Strasser? Send your questions to claudia@parisiensalon.com, and you may find it answered in a future column.
Claudia Strasser is the author of The Paris Apartment: Romantic Decor on a Flea Market Budget. She moved her famed New York City Boutique, also called The Paris Apartment, online and just recently released her iPhone app, Keys to the Fleas, on iTunes. And on top of managing a thriving business, writing another book (or two) and planning her frequent trips to Paris, Claudia still finds time to keep her blog—also called The Paris Apartment—constantly updated. Claudia’s followers—and there are many—have learned how to bring Paris style to their homes in the U.S.
Paris by iPhone: There’s an App for That
Story by Sophie Delon
Forget the American Express card. When in Paris, we don’t leave home without our iPhone. And it has nothing to do with wanting to make phone calls. With all the incredible apps we’ve downloaded, finding our way around the French capital couldn’t be easier. (more…)
Casual Eating in Paris’ Haut Marais
Story by Amy Thomas, Haven in Paris Correspondent. Photos by Julien Hausherr.
Life used to be so easy. At least my lunch choices were. I’d saunter over to the Haut Marais, into le Marché des Enfants Rouges, and hit up Alain, “my” sandwich guy. It started one day when I ordered the delicious organic smoked salmon sandwich that he made on ciabatta and slowly, patiently toasted up to crunchy perfection on his crepe burner. I quickly became addicted. Then he introduced the Cornet Vegetarien, and suddenly all bets were off. Inside a savory crepe, he’d combine gobs of delicious ingredients (“tout bio!” he’d proudly point out) such as fresh greens and mushrooms, grated carrots and fennel, marinated onions, sliced avocado and chèvre, olive oil, chives, sea salt, diced parsley, lemon juice, lime zest, and, à la fin, honey—or, ”the French touch!” in Alain’s words. In my own words, the best sandwich in the city. (more…)
Paris Showrooms: The Latest Fashion Trend
By Sophie Delon
Last winter, I was strolling through the Place des Vosges, when I came upon a seemingly endless line of women snaking around the walkway. I wondered what could possibly inspire these women to wait patiently in the cold. Was Johnny Depp offering free massages inside? As it turns out, a designer had opened her showroom to the public, and these fashionable females were simply waiting to get their hands on the fine frockery inside. (more…)
Fashionable in Paris: Personal Stylists to Make You Fab
By Sophie Delon
In Paris, the fashion trend of the moment is having your own personal shopper. From the city’s grands magasins to independent fashion advisors, there’s no shortage of creative alternatives to traditional shopping. (more…)
Cult of Quality: Meeting the French Standard
Story by Tory Hoen, Haven in Paris Correspondent
If there’s one thing I learned while living in Paris, it is that mediocrity is unacceptable. It is for idiots and Americans—it is not for the French. I was once walking up my street when a particularly agitated French woman came charging out of a little cheese shop. She was perturbed in that very French way: shaking her head and quietly fuming, as if someone had just done her a grave disservice. When I got close enough to hear what she was griping about, she uttered the phrase: “C’était tout à fait médiocre.” It was completely mediocre. (more…)
Paris on the Six: Interview with a Métro Line Manager
Edited by Sophie Delon
In the 1900s, with the creation of the underground metro network, Paris saw the opening of the largest overhead metro line. Built on the former southern city walls of the Farmers-General, which marked the city limits in 1785, line number 6 of the Paris Métro runs between the east and west of the capital. Hop aboard this metro line in the company of line manager Didier Goffart to see some amazing architecture. (more…)
After Paris: Something in Me Has Changed
Story and photographs by Claudia Strasser of The Paris Apartment
It’s been close to a month since getting back from Paris, and some of the subtleties of spending a chunk of time in the city have sunk in on the subatomic level. It seems like each time I go there’s a slight change for the better. I’m a teeny bit more polite, a lot slower paced and definitely less wasteful. To make sure the changes stick, I’m jotting down a couple notes for reference. (more…)
