My Paris Favorites: Terrance Gelenter
Introduction by Linda Donahue
I had, like most of the Paris expat community, known of Terrance Gelenter long before I actually met him, on a beautiful spring day at a (now defunct) café in St. Germain. It was a chance meeting. I was having lunch with my dear friend John, and Terrance was sitting a table by himself. Because he and John were friendly (bien sûr), we sat down at the table next to his, and spent the next hour or so chatting away. Terrance was holding court, for both us and the café staff who knew him well. (more…)
A Home for the Bees in the Luxembourg Gardens
Story by Richard Nahem, Eye Prefer Paris Correspondent
With all this talk about disappearing bee colonies, few realize that there’s one place in Paris where the bees have a thriving home: the Luxembourg Gardens. (more…)
Portrait of a Paris Artist: Thierry Breton
Story by Linda Donahue
Thierry Breton had every intention of studying veterinary medicine when he arrived in Paris in 1985. Instead, the man who was born in Senegal, and who grew up in Africa and Martinique, fell in love with clay. (more…)
My Paris Favorites: Kasia Dietz
Introduction by Linda Donahue
Kasia Dietz has exquisite taste — evidenced in her own personal style and the fabulous bags she designs. She also has a thirst for exploration and adventure — she spent 13 months traveling through 32 countries. This, after spending 10 years in New York City as an art buyer in the ad agency biz.
But after returning from her extended voyage abroad, Kasia literally bumped into the Italian who was to become the love of her life and would, five months later, follow him to Paris. That was nearly three years ago, and in the time since, Kasia has gotten to know the French capital inside and out, delighting in new discoveries and familiar haunts alike.
And, it should be noted, Paris has fallen in love with Kasia. Her collection of bags is sold in the oh-so-prestigious Le Bon Marché … but for those who cannot make it to Paris to, they’ll find the Kasia Dietz collection online at Shop.ParisienSalon.
In the meantime, pour yourself a glass of wine or tea, sit back and let Kasia share her favorite places in the City of Lights.
Kasia in the Marais.
Paris Neighborhood
Le Marais. It’s cobbled streets, hidden courtyards and endless charm always felt like home, even before it was.
Restaurant (French)
I adore everything about Le Petit Marché. It’s exceptionally good French fare with a touch of Asian influence and just the right ambiance, steps away from Place des Vosges. (The mille feuille au thon is a must!)
Restaurant (Ethnic)
I have yet to discover a favorite ethnic eatery (where’s the Chinese takeaway in Paris?) but often find myself table hopping at Le Marché des Enfants Rouges with plenty an ethnic option including Japanese, Italian, Moroccan, Caribbean and Lebanese.
Cheap Eats
There’s a single crêpe stand at the Saint-Germain-des-Prés metro stop that I frequent when I’m craving a local taste followed by a stroll in the rive gauche. (Yes, I do cross the river on occasion.)
Food/gourmet Shop
Aside from occasional morning marketing, my weekly trips include Marché Saint-Martin, a covered market in the 10eme, filled with a wide array of fresh produce, regional wines, foreign delicacies and most importantly, many a smiling merchant.
Patisserie /Boulangerie
I have great loyalty for my little neighborhood boulangerie and always feel privileged when I happen upon a fresh, warm baguette. As for patisserie’s, I cannot easily walk past a Ladurée without tasting at least one macaron, preferably rose-flavored.
Breakfast Spot
My latest favorite breakfast or rather, brunch spot is Coutume Café. (And not merely for its breakfast burrito, in accordance with all the rave reviews the coffee is one of the best in Paris!)
Chocolate Shop
I recently discovered a little gem called Meert in the Marais. It’s a quaint 18th century chocolatier which truly feels like stepping into ‘old Paris’, filled with divine handmade chocolates and various other confections. And, it’s close!
Department Store
I enjoy strolling through Le Bon Marché, as it’s never too crowded and has the appeal of a gallery, each carefully selected piece waiting to be admired.
A hidden garden.
Specialty Boutique
One of my secret passions is interior design with an affinity towards Danish modern. Conveniently close to home sits the Nordik Market, with a selection of Scandinavian furniture and housewares that I dream to furnish a Paris apartment with.
Boutique (Women’s or Men’s)
A boutique combining my three loves of fashion, literature and art is Ofr., located in the ‘Haute Marais’. There is always a book or two to peruse, often followed by an exhibition in the back gallery.
Place for Cocktails
Since moving to Paris I rarely indulge in cocktails, but do love a well mixed drink at neighborhood haunt Candelaria as well as La Conserverie.
Music Spot
The streets of Paris prove the most fitting spots for music to be heard, particularly on one of Paris’ most enchanting nights, La Fête de la Musique, when musicians take to the streets, and out of every hidden corner is heard song. As for a proper venue, La Cigale is a classic.
Quiet Spot
Where I most love to lose time is in Village Saint-Paul, a hidden world of inter-connected courtyards in the Marais, revealing antique shops and one particular cafe that I am very fond of as it does indeed taste like home, Comme à la Maison.
Paris Indulgence
Tea at Mariage Frères is a luxury. I feel quite like being on the set of Casablanca. (Tastings at the various chocolatiers doesn’t count, does it?)
Day Trip from Paris
For a day lost within a magical setting, Monet’s gardens at Giverny. For a day of regal hedonism, a tour of the champagne houses at Epernay. And for a proper mix of the two, the Loire Valley.
All photos provided by Kasia Dietz. You can follow Kasia’s adventures in Paris and beyond at her blog, Love in the City of Lights.
The Magic of The Artist
By Linda Donahue
It’s been half a century since black & white movies were made virtually obsolete by their technicolor counterparts, save for the occasion art house release. And except for a handful of homages to the genre, silent films went silent in the late 1920s. (more…)
January Events in Paris
By Sophie Delon
The days are shorter and colder, but January in Paris offers plenty of warmth. Perhaps they’re still wrapped up in the joy of the holiday season and the excitement of a new year, or maybe they just need more diversions to get through the winter months, but Parisians have filled the month with some of the most exciting events of the year. (more…)
A Very Paris New Year
From Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
Here we are, ready to once again mark the end of another year and celebrate the start of a new one. I’ve already spent my time reflecting back on 2011 and contemplating all the things I want to accomplish in 2012. I don’t believe in resolutions — I broke too many in my younger days to find any real use in them. But, at this time each year, I always try to find “The Lesson To Be Learned” from the preceding year. I think Oprah would call it an “aha moment.” (more…)
Vin Chaud on a Cold Winter Afternoon
While the editors and writers of ParisienSalon.com enjoy a holiday break, we thought we’d offer this delicious little gem that we ran a few years ago.
Nichole Robertson (of Little Brown Pen) waxes nostalgic for afternoons spent in the Marais drinking vin chaud. On days when it’s too cold to go out, try her recipe and indulge at home! (more…)
Shopping with a Diva in Paris
Story and photos by Linda Donahue
When I mentioned to Toma Clark Haines that I found Les Puces de Saint-Ouen intimidating, she laughed. It wasn’t the first time she’d heard someone say this. In fact, it’s one of the things that led to her transformation as The Antiques Diva®. (more…)
Picasso on a Pillow: The Artistry of Jules Pansu
Story by Sophie Delon
Jules Pansu, the son of a modest weaver from Voiron, had a dream to design and manufacture his own fabrics. After seven years of traveling by train all over Europe and Russia, selling silks for a company from Lyon, he knew the trade and was confident he could create the highest quality fabrics—fabrics that would add to the elegance and beauty of any furnishing. His dream came true—in 1878—launching a family-owned dynasty that, 133 years later, still remains one of the most respected purveyors of luxury fabrics around the world. (more…)
A Taste of Paris with the Hotel Lutetia’s Philippe Renard
Story provided by the Paris Convention and Visitor’s Bureau. Edited by Sophie Delon.
Philippe Renard has been the chef of the Hotel Lutetia kitchens for 20 years. Under his leadership, the reputation of the starred restaurant, brasserie and all the restaurant areas of the mythical Left Bank hotel have spread beyond Saint-Germain-des-Prés. A lively discussion with a chef passionate and dedicated to his “house.” (more…)
Paris in Focus: Esplanade Invalides
Story by Caitlin Rodgers. Photos by Linda Donahue.
Situated in the seventh arrondisement between the Eiffel Tower and Orsay Museum, Esplanade Invalides is a stretch of Parisian history that’s often overlooked. En route to work, school or tourist spots like the Rodin Museum and Rue Cler’s market, it can be more a place of crossing than destination. Dare to pass though and you’ll discover charming sketches of Parisian quotidian in this stretch of grass and sky. (more…)
A Friday Night in Paris
Story by Linda Donahue
What’s one to do on a warmer-than-usual Friday night in Paris while in the company of a handsome and stylish friend? That was the question I found myself asking last weekend as I met up with my friend in the 6th arrondissement of the French capital. As it turns out, the answer was a no-brainer. (more…)
An American in Paris: Jewelry Designer John Agee
Story by Linda Donahue
In the heart of Paris’ fashionable 6th arrondissement is the rue Jacob, a delightfully quiet street perched between the Boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine. Most of the people found strolling down this street are local residents, people who know the treasures that can be found here—including the enchanting showroom of the American jewelry designer, John Agee. (more…)
Incapacitated in Paris: What To Do If You’re Sick
Story by Linda Donahue
Last November, the night before I left for my winter stay in Paris, I had a classic “slip and fall” in a store that resulted in a few stitches in my knee. And this past Sunday, hours before I headed to the airport for that same winter stay, my back started to bother me. A nine-hour airplane ride later, it was a goner. I spent my first day in Paris immobilized and in pain. (more…)
Only in Paris, Only in Winter
Story and photos by Linda Donahue, Editor-in-Chief
In a few days, I’ll be heading back to Paris for my annual winter stay. Temperatures will be brisk (to say the least). There will be no flowers, colorful or otherwise, blooming in the parcs and jardins, and daylight will be fleeting. It’s for these reasons that my friends and family members question my sanity, wondering why, for Pierre’s sake, I would leave warm and sunny Miami for time in cold and dark Paris. (more…)
Chasing the Ultimate Pastry in Paris
Story and photos by Adam Wayda
With no fewer than a million pastry shops within the city limits of Paris, there’s no shortage of éclairs, macarons, and tartes to keep you happy. But what if you’re chasing that ultimate pastry experience? Most self-respecting foodies would suggest you make your way directly to Pierre Hermé or Ladurée. There’s no argument that both, particularly Monsieur Hermé, produce brilliant work you shouldn’t skip, but when it comes to an all-around experience, both are still just shy of the pinnacle.
The reality is that some of the greatest pâtisseries have opened only within the last three years. Unlike many that came before them, the shops themselves are as much a delight as the sweets they hold. Here are four virtually guaranteed to knock your socks off, from the second you walk in the door.
Hugo & Victor: When French Champion pastry chef Hugues Pouget left his role as head pâtissier of the Michelin three star Guy Savoy, he took a little time to travel the world and began collaborating with his childhood friend, Sylvain Blanc, to open the ultra-luxe Hugo & Victor (top photo). Looking like Dior and Cartier fused into one and decided to just sell pastries, it’s home to some of the most innovative sweets around. Ironically, Monsieur Pouget generally uses about 1/3 the sugar others employ, so look forward to sampling elegantly complicated studies on flavor. Top Picks: Hugo Vanille, Earl Grey Chocolate Tarte, Hugo Passion, Victor Verveine (Réligieuse), mango macarons, blueberry macarons, combawa lime macarons, vanilla macarons.
Jacques Genin: After leaving his starring role at La Maison du Chocolat, Jacques Genin built an empire on caramels and chocolates, supplying many of the most famous hotels, restaurants and cafés of Europe – all from a private facility in Paris. Then, in 2008, he opened his sprawling pâtisserie/chocolaterie/confiserie/café in the Marais. No one denies that he has mastered the caramel; you have never had anything close . . . ever. His chocolates are legendary, arguably better than those of Patrick Roger, Michel Chaudun and other greats. His pâtes de fruits are incomprehensibly amazing. And his pastry selection is a lineup of some of the most exquisitely crafted French classics. Top Picks: chocolate éclair, lemon tarte, baba au rhum, caramel éclair, mango-passion caramels, macadamia caramels, ginger caramels, lemon caramels, apricot pâte de fruit, pineapple pâte de fruit, tonka chocolate, réglisse (licorice) chocolate, basil chocolate, dill chocolate.
Un Dimanche à Paris: Heir to the famed French chocolate dynasty of his father Michel, Pierre Cluizel had a vision for an all-chocolate concept store, pastry shop, restaurant, bar, and hot chocolate lounge. He spared no expense bringing it to life. Tucked down a corridor off the popular Boulevard St. Germain, and spanning almost half a city block, Un Dimanche à Paris is two floors of chocolate-centric opulence. Enter the main boutique and get ready to be blown away. The ceiling has been carved to look like the tropical canopy that shades the cacao trees, and you can watch the chefs toil-away all day long in their glass-enclosed kitchen. Top Picks: Hot chocolate (available for 2 euros in the main boutique), Choux Pistache, Croustillant au Grué de Cacao, coquelicot (poppy flower) macarons, candied clementines.
La Pâtisserie des Rêves: French hotelier, Thierry Teyssier, teamed up with world champion pastry chef Philippe Conticini to bring the world of 23rd century pastry to us a couple hundred years earlier than expected. Counterweighted glass bell jars, suspended from the ceiling, showcase a sublime array of treats – from a Venezuelan chocolate-sheathed éclair to a space-age tarte tatin and an impossibly beautiful Saint-Honoré. Even their selection of humble viennoiserie (breakfast pastries) will leave you in awe. Top Picks: Grand Cru, mango tarte, Saint-Honoré, Cylan, chausson aux pommes, brioche.
Adam Wayda is an American gourmand with “a bit” of a sweet tooth. Spending half of each year in Paris, he chronicles Parisian pastry and the great chefs behind it on his site ParisPatisseries.com, which poses the very real risk of making your computer’s monitor ooze with crème pâtissiere.
The Art of the Scent at Jovoy Paris
Story by Liz Cohen
Paris is a city of smells. Freshly baked bread, rotisserie chicken outside of every boucherie, parks damp from rain – these are just a few smells that come to mind when I think of Paris. And of course Paris is a city of art, no list required. It shouldn’t be a surprise, therefore, that the art of smells – perfume – has its home in Paris as well. (more…)
Sweet Treat: An Interview with Adam of Paris Pâtisseries
Interview by Linda Donahue. Photos by Adam Weyda.
There’s absolutely no doubt that Paris is a dream for those with a sweet tooth. The incontrovertible evidence: you can’t walk down a single rue in the French capital without passing at least two patisseries or chocolate shops. Even after countless and extended stays in the city, I still find myself stopping to ogle the colorful displays of cakes, tartlets, eclairs, fondants, and meringues in shop windows. In fact, if I had a euro for every time I was lured into a patisserie to purchase a delectable dessert that caught my eye, I could probably buy my own patisserie. (more…)
November Events in Paris
Paris in November just may be the most romantic time of the year. The foliage is turning various shades of red and orange, and what doesn’t still cling to tree branches carpets the city’s sidewalks and jardins. The chill in the air is the perfect justification to order up a cup of vin chaud. Festive holiday lights along the Champs Élysée and the various rues and avenues of the city make the early arrival of darkness worth welcoming. And the creative holiday windows of the shops and grands magasins become crowd-pleasing events. (more…)
Recipes from Paris: Le Saint Honoré
By Yetunde Oshodi
Today we have a recipe for a very tasty pastry—Le Saint Honoré. Named after the the French patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs (of course the French would have a saint for bakers and pastry chefs), the Le Saint Honoré is a classic French puff pastry dessert that’s baked and dipped in caramelized sugar. Yum! (more…)
One Day in Paris on a Shoestring Budget
Story by Linda Donahue
It’s common knowledge that Paris can be a pretty expensive city to visit—especially with today’s exchange rates. But you don’t have to spend a small fortune to get the most out of the French capital. There are plenty of ways to stretch your euros that will make you feel like you got so much more than your money’s worth. (more…)
Shopping in Paris: The Grands Magasins
By Sophie Delon
Those who love to shop love to shop in Paris. There are people who even plan their trips to the French capital around shopping. And while there’s no such thing as too many shops, Paris can overwhelm those who arrive without a strategy in place. There are boutiques dedicated to every whim scattered throughout the 20 arrondissements of the city, not to mention markets, malls and the grands magasins. (more…)
Paris Dining Etiquette: Be Their Guest
Story by Kalin Beck
I have always tried to be a good guest. Consideration was one of the virtues instilled in me by my parents from childhood. At home in the U.S., I’ve long since nailed the rules of etiquette when invited into a person’s home. Arrive promptly. Always bring a bottle of wine. No elbows on the table. Offer to help clear the table and do the dishes. (more…)
