83, rue Laugier
Metro Station: Porte de Champerret (Line 3)
Type of cuisine: French
Days & hours of operation: Tues to Sat Noon – 2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – 10:30 p.m. (11:30 p.m. Fri and Sat)
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard
Walls the color of maize, a black-and-white checkerboard tile floor, red vinyl benches against the walls, ceiling fans, wooden tables, mirrors displaying wine options written in colorful marking pen—all of this added up to a bistrot that our dining companion described as “cozy.”
And the food was great, too!
For the starter, I ordered Carpaccio de tête de veau, sauce ravigotte. Tête de veau is a jellied meat preparation made from the head of a calf; weak-hearted diners should abstain! The waiter brought a plate containing a small, mixed-green salad atop a serving of very thin slices of calf’s head that had been generously garnished in ravigotte sauce. The sauce was prepared with chopped gherkins, giving crunchy texture to an otherwise gelatinous dish.
My partner ordered the Terrine de campagne, and received a cutting board supporting a generous slice of country-style terrine that she described as spicy and not overly fatty. The terrine was served with toasted country bread and a ramekin containing cauliflower and green and red peppers, all marinated in vinegar.
Pursuing the country-style food theme, I ordered Cuisse de lapin fondante et petits légumes de saison. The rabbit thigh had been stewed, and was served atop a bed of tender spring vegetables, peas, string beans, onions, green peppers, carrots, and chanterelle mushrooms, all in a shallow pond of gravy. The meat was so tender that it fell off the bone, as signified by the word fondante in the name of the dish. Hearty and delicious!
For her main course, my partner ordered Quasi de veau, petits légumes de saison et champignons. She was served two thickly cut portions of veal, the interior of which had been cooked to just slightly pink. The slices rested on a bed of green peas, green beans, parsnips, and chanterelle and meadow mushrooms. A light-brown gravy added savor to the dish.
To accompany our meal, we ordered a half-bottle of Morgon Marcel Lapierre 2008, a medium-bodied red with soft tannins.
Thickly-sliced country bread with a crunchy crust was served alongside in a basket.
When the dessert menu was presented, I saw my chance to try something different. I placed my order for theFeuilleté caramelisée, pommes confites, rhubarbe et glace caramel. I was not at all disappointed to receive a crispymillefeuille filled with apple and rhubarb compote, garnished with a squiggle of caramel sauce, and served with a scoop of caramel ice cream. The dessert was not overly sweet, and was, in a word, delightful!
My partner opted for the Sablé Breton, crème mascarpone et fraise gariguette. And here came the surprise! She was served a verrine (a squat glass) containing layered ingredients. The bottom layer consisted of shortbread topped with mascarpone. On top of this was a layer of chopped gariguette strawberries and an ultra-thin tuile (butter cookie), all sprinkled with powdered sugar and garnished with a mint leaf. What a sweet treat!
The bill for two, including two three-course, fixed-price menus at 32€, a half-bottle of Morgon, and an espresso, came to 87.50€.
After 8:00 p.m., the restaurant filled up quickly with customers. The wait staff hurried about, fulfilling their duties admirably. Our waitress readily answered our questions about the food.
For travelers seeking an authentic “French experience,” L’Entredgue is the place to dine!
Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology, has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook.