My Paris Favorites: Linda Donahue

Edited by Sophie Delon

Parisien Salon’s Editor-in-Chief didn’t just fall in love with Paris the first time she visited the French capital; she realized she’d found her home. In the many years since, Linda Donahue has explored the nooks and crannies of her adopted home town, discovering hidden treasures she loves to share with visitors. And while she finds it difficult to pick “favorites” among her discoveries, Linda has narrowed them down for the sake of publication.

Paris Neighborhood

I have a hard time picking a favorite between the 7th arrondissement, Montmartre and the Marais. The Abbesses neighborhood in Montmarte is my current “home.” I love that it still feels bohemian. The Marais just has so much to offer, from chic boutiques to ethnic eats and hidden gardens. And it’s close to the center of everything. The 7th, whether it’s around the rue Cler neighborhood or near Bon Marché, is quieter. There’s a sense of refinement in this arrondissement that’s appealing. If only I could have a home in each of these places.

Restaurant (French)

Le Restaurant, rue Veron in Montmartre, continually offers some of the most delicious cuisine. They have a lamb tagîne that’s just ridiculously good, and a hot chocolate tart that’s worth dying for.

Restaurant (Ethnic)

L’As du Fallafel at 34, rue des Rosiers. Hands down the best fallafels in Paris. Or anywhere.

Cheap Eats

I was introduced to the Café des Beaux-Arts on rue Mazarine in the 6th by John Agee. It doesn’t get more authentically French than this. The duck confit was one of the best I’d had in Paris (or elsewhere). For super cheap eats, I also love either getting a crêpe from a street vendor, or a ready-made sandwich from the local boulanger, and savoring this handy meal in the jardin.

Food/Gourmet Shop

La Grande Epicerie at Bon Marché (38, rue de Sèvres in the 7th) is, hands down, the best of the best. I swear, I let out a little sigh each time I step through the doors and see the cases of fresh meats, treats and other sweets.

Galeries Lafayette

Department Store

I do love Bon Marché. It’s quiet, refined and is home to my favorite designers. But there’s something about Galeries Lafayette that makes it my favorite, even with the loud crowds. The art deco dome and dramatic rails around the different levels make me think of Europe’s opera houses. Maybe it’s the sheer quantity of variety … the excess of it. I mean, a whole basement devoted to shoes? My head almost exploded. For the home, BHV can’t be beat.

Speciality Boutique

There are so many that I’ll just have to go with the first two to pop into my head. There’s  Le thé des écrivains (38, rue de Turenne in the 3rd arrondissement). Even in this computer age, I love notebooks and they have the most spectacular ones. And paper. And tea!

And then there’s Coiffeur at 32, rue des Rosiers in the 4th. This shop has the most amazing vintage finds and I’m always pulled in by the handbags or shoes they have in the window.  (And it’s next door to L’As du Fallafel.)

Women’s Boutique

Make My D (7, rue de la Vieuville in Montmartre) was a revelation when I discovered it. It meets my eclectic needs in fashion, and Nathalie Bui could not be more fabulous.

Place for Cocktails

Le Fumoir (6, rue de l’Amiral Coligny in the 1st) is one of my favorite places to meet for drinks. The location is great, they have a wonderful happy hour, and even though the place is sprawling, it feels very intimate.

Patisserie

Coquelicot (24, rue des Abbesses in Montmartre) is, hands down, my favorite boulangerie/patisserie. Not only do they have the best baguettes and éclairs (in my opinion), but their brunch is unequalled.

Breakfast Spot

Yep. Still Coquelicot. If you want something light, the P’tit dej’ Vitalité gives you a big slice of brioche, jam and a bowl of coffee, tea or hot chocolate. If you’ve got a big appetite, Le Brunch Coquelicot comes with smoked salmon on toasts, a soft boiled egg, a salad with greens and sautéed potatoes, yogurt, fruit salad, orange juice AND a bowl of coffee, tea or hot chocolate. My favorite, though, is the P’tit dej’ Energie: for less than five euros, I get half a baguette, jam and a bowl of hot chocolate.

Quiet Spot

Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is the ultimate in tranquility for me. It seems morbid to say that a cemetery is a peaceful sanctuary, I know. But there’s not a single restless spirit in this place. I could sit on a bench at the rond-point Casimir-Perrier and look at the statue I’ve named “The Weeping Lady of Père Lachaise for hours.

Paris Indulgence

Sitting in the Bar Hemingway and sipping a glass of wine or champagne (or two) with a friend is definitely a luxurious indulgence. But the beautiful thing about Paris is that you can do this far more economically in just about any café around the city, and there’s no need to rush out.

Day Trip from Paris

This may actually also fall under the “indulgence” category, but hopping on a train to Brussels for lunch and some shopping (Neuhaus truffles) is a great escape. It takes less than hour to get there. You can also make a quick hop under the English Channel for a day (or overnight) trip to London. I’ve also been known to take a train trip to Rouen for a few hours of quiet wandering.

Top photo of Coquelicot by Nichole Robertson of Little Brown Pen.